midiwall

I ran a FLX-210 for almost two years and was happy with how it kept the truck cool. But, I had other extenuating circumstances that caused me to remove it...

• The standard controller is mechanical and would get plugged with mud (even when mounted high in the engine compartment) forcing a clean-out on the trail.
  
  
• The mechanical controller was a BEYACH to get set right. Setting a good turn-on point would usually produce a turn-off point that was impossible for the engine to get to.
  
  
• I took a HARD hit from a jump in the dunes and broke a blade on one of the fans. That caused two other blades to sheer off, and one of those wedged itself such that one fan motor was no longer turning. That in turn burned out my new solid-state controller (bought after going through two mechanical ones) instead of blowing a fuse.

... and that's when I pulled the fans and went back to mechanical.

ebelen1

midiwall, is it a cost thing of not replacing the fan or did you just realize that it wasn't worth it. The FAL is pretty expensive and I'm not getting a clear answer on the cost/benefit of this mod. Some have said that overheating can be an issue. For those that don't overheat, they don't feel that much of a power gain. Is this just one of those "nice to have" mods that helps the motor down the road?

midiwall

It became a choice between the value of the materials I had put into it (the original fans, a 2nd mechanical controller and an electronic controller - over $400 total) and then looking at the cost for a new controller and fan blade - basically I felt that I had hit a threshold on how much I was willing to spend for the mod.

As well, I added the fans while I was N/A, and thus now with the S/C, the HP/response increase isn't that great.


I DID feel the power/response increase - there's NO doubt in my mind about that.

I _did_ overheat a few times when using the fans, but it was NEVER a fault due to lack of airflow from the fans itself. In ALL cases it was an issue with either the mechanical controller sticking closed (packed with mud); wiring issues (my fault); a melted fuse holder (too close to the radiator); a broken blade trashing a fan motor (and controller) and a couple of other things down those lines.

In short, I was the local poster boy for electric fans for well over a year. I was also (and still am!) the local poster boy for "breaking crap on runs". I drive pretty hard - I've had a lot of stuff break on the trails, and the fan components are on that list.

04 Rocko Taco

I've heard middle of the road things about the taurus fan, but I also heard that the Volvo fan works really well. Check out bamachems write up oin his Volvo fan and electric controller. I've also been talking to a couple of guys on TTORA who have installed the Perma-Cool fan, I talked to Tyson (TYOTA) this past weekend, and he was going to install the perma-cool fan and perma-cool controller on his 97 Runner, I know he got it in, but I havent heard about the results or any great or horrible things yet... I think the electric fan might be the way to go....

mastacox

It's you automatic tranny, it puts out too much heat when under load for most people. You'll probably have to go with you mechanical unless you get a bigger fan. I personally am interested to see how a Lincoln Mark VIII fan works on a 3.0 auto.

04 Rocko Taco

Okay, Im running an auto tranny, but I dont tow, just light offroading and lots of highway driving, My tranny isnt going to put out to much heat is it? And anyone who is having trouble with the tranny, but likes the idea of the fan, could put in a hayden tranny cooler, or even one of those cheapie universal jobs from the u-haul place.

Epic Ed

An old thread with some timely opinions for my situation. The quote above -- I haven't heard of this as a possibility. Has someone done it before? Any additional parts needed? Will the stock fan clutch work or do you need to grab that part from the donor vehicle, too?

As I've indicated in other threads recently, I have a chronic over heating problem and I can't find the source. The needle climbs a little past the 1/2 marker when under load -- especially during the summer. My mechanic thinks its an air flow issue, and it may very well be at least part of it. I have replaced/upgraded every component possible in the cooling system to no avail. For that reason I'm strongly considering adding an additional electric fan to be installed to the right of the existing fan in front of the radiator. I plan to leave the stock mechanical fan in place. Upgrading that fan to a larger one might also be an option.

Has anyone ever done this? Running both electrical and mechanical fans? Any input would be great.

Ed

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

My electric fan came out of a 93 Lincoln Continental and it looks just like the one for the Taurus/Sable but didn't have the extra "ears" like the one I hasve seen here, I only have the fan currently wired to slow speed for current draw considerations and still trying to get some more input from others on the best way to go on this mod to utilize the high speed setting, wether to have seperate switch to manually turn on the fan at high speed or what. I have been getting the idea that the DCC controller may be the way to go but getting one at this juncture is not really an option as I am 1200 miles from home and the delivery time would not be doable for me so that I could then install it before having to trek back. I might look into trying to get another stock fan.shroud froma yard here and swapping it out for the trip back.

Another issue I have with the high speed setting is just what sort of a load with this put on my electrical system. No one has really been able to definitely state what the real current draw is, the load on the alternator etc. I am VERY open to suggestions as I will be heading back north in about 10 days, If you have comments or suggestions you can send messages or post on my thread. I wrote a synopsis of my trip to this point so you could leave your thoughts there as well. Thanks

mastacox

The draw from the fan an high should be around 33 amps. You will need a 40 amp relay to power it, but you <should> be able to handle the hi speed setting for short bursts (keep an eye on your voltage gauge), say going up a huge mountain for example. You could just set up a separate relay and swith, so that you have it on low normally, and hi for when you need it.

mastacox

I don't think running both a mechanical and electric fan is an option, because there isn't enough room... I think there has to be something wrong with your cooling system that has to be tracked down, before you consider an electric fan.

It is true that pretty much evey 3.0/auto I have heard of will begin to overheat on the slightest incline with a Taurus fan (due to he heat added by the tranny cooler). Basically, it won't push enough air. The Lincoln Fan, however, pushes a lot more (the Lincoln Mark VIII, not the Sable/Continental- this is the same fan as the Taurus.) BUT, it pulls a lot of power and the person would definitely have to upgrade their alternator, along with a heavy power controller (DC controls makes a controller capable of 60 amps for something like $140, that's what I would try).

Anyway, I think your engine or transmission is generating a lot of extra heat, or you cooling system has a blockage somewhere. I understand that you have tried many things to fix it, but I'm guessing that you just haven't gotten to the root of the issue yet.