yoda-g2

I haven't bugged Gadget with this one yet. I've had my URD kit installed for a few months now and have been really happy with it so far. The only real issue I have is that when I'm idleing in Park my rpms bounce around between 700-900ish. I've messed with fuel trims and timing on the ftc with no luck. Its not horrible, just really annoying. It seems with the outside temp dropping that it is getting a little worse too. I have my cloed loop fairly dialed in, but I haven't touched open loop yet (haven't purcahsed a wide band o2 yet).

Any ideas?

northfacer581

not trying to change ur question...but i was just curious how easy the install was of the urd kit? im thinking of doing that soon, and it just looks like it might be more than i can handle. my abilities are ok...ive done things like-replace clutch bushing, all kinds of wiring stuff, aux fuse box, seafoam treatment...but i was wondering where this would rank on the scale of difficulty.

to attempt to answer your question...i know there are a few guys on here that are pretty experienced with his kit, just try to locate and pm them...i mean obviously itd probably be best to ask gadget himself...he'll respond quickly, he answered me the next day when i asked him a question about my s/c.

yoda-g2

The majority of it is pretty straight forward, just tedious. It only takes basic skill to do the fuel pump, which includes 2-3 hours of contorting yourself on your back juggling the fuel tank (1 hr out, 1 hour in, 1 hour installing the pump), with two people it would've been much easier.

Same with removing the S/C itself, couple hours off, couple hours on. Taking the dash apart to mount the ftc is really easy to (though it is a tight fit).

I'd say that the hardest part in the entire install was soldering the FTC and injector harnesses. That alone is easily an entire day project. It is a very tight fit under the dash and under the hood to get to the wiring. I actually was lucky enough to have an ex-mechanic friend of mine who does alot soldering in his new job building electronics do the work for me. He had the proper equipement and he easily spent 3-4 hours just on that. Granted he is VERY anal about his quality and took his time to do it absolutely right, but just from watching what he was doing I know that it would've easily taken me twice that time, as I have almost no soldering experience.

If you feel comfortable enough to install an S/C you could probably handle this. If I had to rank it 1 - 10, 1 being an oil change and 10 being a total motor rebuild, this would probably be a 6.5 just because of the soldering hassle. Just BE PATIENT. I split the install up over 4 days total. One night after work to install the fuel pump, then short Fri, Sat, Sun afternoons to do the rest. Just plan on your rig being out of commission for a few days so that way you don't feel rushed, or burn out on it.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

TRDOLMAN

Have you cleaned your MAF lately? After your truck is warmed up and you see that you are in closed loop at idle on your scan tool-----what are your short and long term fuel trim readings? This may sound dumb to you but have you thoroughly checked for a vacuum leak? What is your vacuum reading on your boost guage at idle?

yoda-g2

I cleaned the MAF a few days before the install.

My scan tool is currently out of comission (my laptop battery won't last for more than 5 minutes...) but when I was diagnosing the problem a few weeks ago I recall the STF being -5 - -9% and LTF +11% ish. That ws about as close as I could get it. I also tried retarding the timing a few degrees and I thought that helped a little, but it was hard to be sure.

I've checked for leaks pretty thoroughly, and my guage is reading -20. I guess I may have missed something but I did give everything a good once over.

When I was tuning I was having a hell of a time getting the LTF and STF to "zero out" it seemed like they are always 5-7 percent off. Is that normal?


Thanks!

TRDOLMAN

Well---take this the right way please because I don't know you or how good of a tuner you are. If I were you I would do this:

Reread the U-tune guide at least twice. (sounds dumb but it helps)
You have to do something about that laptop so you can tune.
You should be able to get your trims closer to zero.
You didn't pull timing at idle did you? I hope not.
Make sure the Maf and filter are clean as well as the throttle body.
With 20 on your vac guage I would say you don't have a vac leak.
Set map B to all zeros
Completely tune closed loop and try your best to zero out your trims.
Somehow get hold of a wideband and tune the open loop.
After you have tuned closed and openloop to the best of your ability---then go to map B and retard timing only in cell areas necessary and only as much as necessary.
You should be good to go. If not then contact Gadget. Try your best to get your tuning done before you contact Gadget or he might "woof" on ya.

Dave

yoda-g2

Don't worry about offending me, I wouldn't ask if I couldn't handle it. I have decent mehcanical experience, but tuning is VERY new to me.

I've read the guide seriously about 20 times, it seems like there is a concept eluding me though. It seems like no matter how steady I hold the throttle at a constant RPM x Vacuum I would get numbers that would bounce around significalnty. My LTF stays steady, but my STF would bounce around 3-6 numbers (-7 to +4 at lower rpms). I slowly adjusted values from 9.2 - 9.8 on Map A and I could get closer to zero, but still the STF bounces around despite holding a constant RPM x Vacuum. This makes it near impossible to get them to zero out.

In your tuning experience how long would you wait in between adjusting MapA to let the LTF stabilize? I would make minor adjustments (.1-.2 increments) to map A, then wait 3-4 days (100-200 miles) to check the results. The closest I could get was +4ish STF and -10 LTF.

I did slightly pull the timing at idle. From your reaction I'd say this is bad?

MAF, filter, TB were spotless at time of install.

The laptop situation sucks, I actually had a sweet one from my old job that I had all configured for tuning. Two weeks into the process though I got a new job and had to give the laptop back . So now I'm stuck with one with a crappy battery....

I'll try the rest of your advice when I have a chance. I know I need to pony up and just get the wideband and get this done right. Let me know if you have any more advice.

I appreciate the help!

Shane