sampson

Hey,
Heres the deal, the radiator I have is pretty new maybe a year old at most and it has developed a crack where the actual radiator and that metal tube that goes out of the radiator to connect to the top hose is. What can you guys recommend to use to repair it. It is a pretty slow leak so I am not terribly worried about it but it is something I'd like to fix. I've given JB Weld a shot and it has broken through a layer or two of that. I didn't clean it the first time before I threw the jb weld on. Think I should take off all the jb weld and then wire brush it down to bare clean metal before throwing on the jb weld??? Any suggestions are appreciated. THanks a lot for your help-Sampson

Yoter

3.0, 3.4 or? Is it the metal rad. or plastic? JB is good stuff and should be working. Are you sure your not getting coolant into the JB mix and killing it. I would drain the rad. lower than the leaking point and then start all the way over. get a good mix together and then go to town. Is this JB new or years old?

Fahrenheit 451

Considering the importance of a good cooling system, especially on a Toyota motor, I wouldn't do something in the "patch" category like JBWeld. I'd say clean it and try braizing it, or take it somewhere and have it done right.
No warranty on it or was it just one year? Pretty crappy deal to have to repair a rad that new. Check and make sure it is clearing the hood and there are no other stressers on it or the repaired version may wind up doing the same thing.

Dublin

You need to re-solder the joint, that how they originally do it. Drain the coolant down, wire brush the joint, heat it with a torch to burn off any contaminants (paint, oil, anti-freeze (burns a pretty green), ect.). Then flux it up and solder it up with a 50/50 solid solder. If you use any thing else like 80/20 you may need to do the entire joint (they melt at different temps). Or take it to the radiator shop. Don't rely on the jb weld it would be nothing more than a temporary patch. The radiator has to deal with both temperature and pressure and you need a permanent fix.

sampson

Hey thanks for the replies

Yoter- the jb was brand new I am not that cheap to use shiat that is older than I am . The engine is a (carburated) 22r. I think I'll give that jb weld another shot after lowering the coolant and severly cleaning/preppring the service to prepare it for the jb weld. Thanks-Sampson

Fahrenheit 451- Thanks for the suggestion but what is braizing??? I am afraid I don't know wha that is and therefore don't know how to do it. Yeah no warrante on it does suck quite a bit, I bought it off a friend of mine who was gonna use it and ended up selling the truck before he put it in. He still had it in the original box. And yes it is clearing the hood fine. Please let me know what braizing is. THanks-Sampson

Dublin- No problem on redoing the joint kinda figured I'd have to do that. What kinda solder deal are we talking here. I have soldered many wires togeather in car stereo applications, are you talking solder like that???? Also not sure what you mean by "flux it up". Could you please specify where to get this 50/50 solder combination deal and how easy is it to do. I appreciate the advice and I think it is more the pressure as it tends to develop cracks before it gradually gives way to the pressure. Thanks-Sampson

Thanks a lot to all, please repost if you can.-Sampson

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I'd consult a professional and get some advice...I have a local auto parts place that will dish out information like what you need.

Dublin

The solder you'll need is 50 percent lead and 50 percent lead although 60/40 should work as well. It needs to be of the solid type and not with the acid/flux core type. Flux (acid free) is a combination of zinc chloride and parifin, some times other chlorides as well. The flux preps the areas to be soldered to help the solder adhere properly (where the flux goes the solder will follow). You will also need a propane or acetaline torch to heat the flux first to a boil, then apply the solder.

Arnold

Yup, take Yoter's advice. I've got multiple JB Weld patch jobs on my radiator and they're still holding after several years. They're all at the bottom of the rad too. My only other advice is to let it cure for at least a day.

Yoter

JB is the poor mans weld but if its all you can afford hook it up. I busted the top of my rad. when doing the body lift. I lifted up on the neck while lifting it up onto the new brackets. nearly the entire neck ripped and I thought I was screwed. I got JB and went to work. I also busted the battery post so I had to let the rig sit over night until I got a new battery. Still no leaky leaky. By no means do I expect it to last forever but it is for now. 10,000 miles after the repair.

sampson

Update.....

Just sanded it down with the dremel I got for my birthday(christmas) . Took me all of about 5 minutes to get that baby down to bare metal. I will be throwing on the JB weld and I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks again for all the advice...-Sampson