JoKEpLaYeR

The transmission is out and in the bed. My friend and I man-handled the motor out without a hoist!!!! We rule! Thanks Harvey! I'm gonna start taking pieces down to get them machined. Wish me luck! I'll keep you all updated.

JoKEpLaYeR

Update:
-1" Body Lift Installed
-33" Tires located for free
-Alarm Shipped today
-Engine is in the trunk of my camry ready for thursday's paycheck

I could really use a catalytic converter if anyone has one..... I know I can't get one from a junk yard or I'd be out looking for one right now. It'd be great even if I could just borrow it for a day while I'm dealing with smog. I'm looking at about mid-July before I'll need one though. I'm also in the market for a new radiator and a clutch.... what's the best buy? I'm thinking of the radiator from LC Engineering and the clutch from Centerforce. Probably a II maybe a dual friction with a new throw-out bearing.

mike_d

how hard was the BL? i'm thinking of doing one on my '89, but i'm just scared that when i start loosening the bolts that have been on there for the last 15 years things are going to start going badly.

JoKEpLaYeR

It was so easy! I did most of it myself. I only needed an extra set of hands to tighten the bolts back down.

Basic write up:
1) Unbolt ALL the body mount bolts and remove them. (10 on the 1st Gen 4Runners)
2) Use a high-lift jack and a couple 2x4's in the rear wheel well to raise one side of the body a few inches above the mounts so you have space to get the new spacers and bushings in. Then do the other side. GET NEW BUSHINGS! I ordered a new set of Polyurethane bushings.) If you don't have a hi-lift yet, then you can do what I did to raise the body..... Place a small piece of plywood on top of the rear wheel, put a 2x4 in the wheel well, and find a small scissor jack. I used the one out of my Camry.
3) Put the bolts through and tighten them down. 30-40 foot lbs of torque.
4) You might need a new front bumper. I had a Smittybuilt and it (stupid design) mounted to the frame and also to the body. I donated it a friend with a Cherokee and he chopped it up and bolted it to his front end
5) With a 1" BL I didn't find any places where wires or hoses were too tight - but my engine is in the trunk of my Camry right now, so double check your setup. From what I've heard there are no problems though.

I'll post a few more pictures later tonight about how I lifted in the wheel well.

I fully (100%) recommend getting the BL from Roger Brown (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml). Great service and he really knows what he's doing. I recommend getting the poly mounts, grade 8 hardware and the ultimate blocks.

At the end of this page are a couple pictures of the body lift. Again, I'll add a few more tonight.

Let me know if you have any more questions.
Steve

JoKEpLaYeR

Ok, my write-up is here: 1" Body Lift.

Feel free to ask questions.

JoKEpLaYeR

Are 33's going to fit under a 1" Body lift? Just looking at the size of the wheel well opening I think they will. Backspacing is completely foreign to me... What do I need to keep from rubbing my a-arms?

JoKEpLaYeR

Alrighty, the motor has returned and is waiting patiently for all it's pieces to be bolted to it. Pics here.

Steve

Fahrenheit 451

If I may ask, how much did the machine work and assembly run; just the labor and not parts?
I'm going to be doing the motor in my '93 4Runner soon and am thinking about having a local shop do the bottom end and go with a LC EFI Pro head on it as well as one of LC's rebuild kits to get the double row timing chain and hard anodized oil pump.

SoCal4Running

I just put an LC head on my 4runner and can say it was worth every penny.

JoKEpLaYeR

I bet that LC head is NICE! I wish I had that kind of money.

The break down for machine work and assembly with no part costs: (I'm guessing at what would be included in your bottom end work)
Block: Boil, Mag, Bore, Hone, Deck = $345
Rods and Crank = $220
Balancing Crank = $165
Assemble (this was complete) = $375
Surface Flywheel (good idea when you pull the tranny) = $48
Total of listed above = $1153

Note: This shop I used is in a very urban area, a shop in an industrial area would be cheaper. Some of the things I did you will not need to do. DOn't be afraid to ask the shop LOTS of questions. That's why they are there. I made a great contact at Tri-Valley Machine named Amos who answered any and every question I asked him with great responses.

Let me know if you would like a furthur break down of costs.
Steve

JoKEpLaYeR

Exhaust is bolted up, clutch is ordered. Radiator will be here this weekend!

Does anyone know if someone (including the stealership) would sell a hose kit? Vacuum and coolant? I'd love to go through and replace all the 16 years old hoses.

JoKEpLaYeR

Oh, I also need a cat... where's the best place to get one cheap? I don't want to spend $400 on one. I'd love to spend $180ish.

JoKEpLaYeR

Howdy,

The front bumper is on my friends jeep cherokee now. I'm still using the nerfs and rear bumper. When I do take them off, I'll let you know. Are you local? I'm in Walnut Creek, CA.

I'm working on getting the money together for a front bumper from Badland Bumpers and a rear from All-Pro Offroad. I'll let you know when it happens. I'm guessing by Christmas I'll have a new rear bumper and sliders.

Steve

emotepix

Hi
Unfortunately no, I'm in the LA area. However I take any excuse to drive up the Bay area!
Let me know
Cheers
Chris
emotepix@artnet.net

JoKEpLaYeR

Good day at the junk yard!

I picked up a 2-speed fan from a Sable (still a ford), new lap belts for the rear seats and a factory roll bar!!!! All in all I spent just over $100!!!!

Later,
Steve

AxleIke

Hey, so glad that you love your runner, love mine too. Sounds like some awsome mods planned. One think i thin you may be missing, but someone may have already pointed this out. If you plan to put 35's on your truck, you might consider gearing your diff's as well. I've got an 87 Runner, with a 22RE, and i've got intake and exhaust mods, but i'm running 29 inchers because the damn thing can't go hardly with anything bigger. However, if ur rebuilding, and plan to get more power u'll be fine. The 22RE, stock, is underpowered at best, and u'll also have really bad gas mileage with 35's if u don't gear down. Other than that, sounds like u'll have an awsome rig man!

JoKEpLaYeR

I've been researching more and have decided I want to get my rig to be more flexy - not just taller. A lot of my plans have changed. I'll update this thread sometime soon once I get some more details!!! I've got a set of 33's ready to go on next week once the truck is bolted together and running!

If you have it, Send me a link with pics of your runner!

Steve

JoKEpLaYeR

Ok: So here goes:

My new mod list includes:
Lift:
-1" Body lift from 4crawler.com - Done
-New A-Arm kit from Total Chaos
-Front bumper from Badland Bumpers - Very Soon (Next week?)
-Rear bumper from All-Pro
-RockSliderZ from 4crawler.com
-Running Big-O Big Foots 33x12.5x15 until I have money for some Dunlop Mud Rovers
-7"x15" Rims that came with truck
-Sway bar disconnects
-I think I have a York compressor lined up to use for on-board air
-I'm going to add a second gas tank where the spare was

I don't know how much I need a rear locker yet - will decided in the future.
Same for SAS, I think i can get all the wheel travel I need out of the total chaos kit.

Steve

deznoches

Where did you find the roll bar, and what did it cost, if I might ask.

JoKEpLaYeR

I found it in an '85 4Runner at the Pick 'n Pull in Oakland. It cost $60!!!! My awesome g/f bought it for me cause she was with me!

I've seen a few go for free on this board, just keep your eyes on the classifieds section.