Jason01

I just bought my first Toyota, it's an '88 4x4 Xtracab SR5. I Bought the thing for $150, without hearing it run. It wouldn't start. I got it to run(new cap, rotor, and wires), and then moved on the the next obvious problem. It wouldn't move. So, $200 later, the truck now has a new clutch, rear brakes, clutch master cylinder, and front brakes. I drove it for the first time today, and, I must admit, I knew that it was not going to have much power, but I was amazed at the lack of torque that this thing has. Before I get too far, its a 22RE motor, and it has 177xxx miles on it, and it starts and runs great. What can I do to get some power from this thing? It reminds me of my S-10 Blazer when I first got it(2.8 v-6, didn't like the power, rebuilt it & stroked it to 240 HP & 240 Ft. Lbs Torque). I'm definately not an idiot when it comes to making power, but is there any thing that I can easily do? Any thing?(cheapness counts here, simple things like porting TB)

rimpainter.com

CAI, headers, exhaust. All three, oh and welcome!

If you are going to be off-road, then avoid the CAI and go with a high-flow filter. Be warned, you will need to tweak the MAFS on the 22RE to enrich the fuel (manually) if you add and remove more air.

Jason01

How do you "tweak" The MAFS?
The Exhaust is half falling off right now, and I was going to go to a friends house tommorow and weld it back on. Should I just grab the torch instead and cut it off? Keep in mind, I want torque, not HP(unless I can get both).

One more question, what kind of mileage can I expect to get? The truck has 4.10 gears, 5 speed, and 30x9.5 tires. Just a ballpark figure would be fine.

rimpainter.com

I would weld on a high-flow muffler in your case, to keep the torque. Stay with the stock pipe diameter. That cat could be clogged too. You never know.

If its running properly, you should be in the 20 - 25 MPG range.

I need to see if you have a VFM or MAFS...

rimpainter.com

You have to pry the black cover off and loosen a screw then move a spring loaded dial a notch or two. I know the procedure is on the net somewhere, I just cant find it. Try a search on google and you will find tons of stuff.

Jason01

Cool...I'm gonna kill the muffler, and weld in a resonater & pipe that I got for free from a minivan. As far as the MAFS or VFM, mine has a funny lookin box thing on the aircleaner, with like a shutter in it. I've never seen anything quite like it. I'm also going to pick up a fuel filter, and adjust the valves tommorow. If the brakes were down to metal, it only makes me wonder what would have been done under the hood.......

rimpainter.com

Sounds good man! Yeah, that might be a VFM, not a MAFS...

Tacoma Dude

Only $150???

DANG! You'll spend more than that for gas!
Shoot, you could prolly sell your rims and tires and break even!

cubuff4runner

When I first bought my 88' 4Runner with the 22RE it wouldn't go over 70mph on the highway. I reworked the intake and exhaust and other minor improvements, could then stay at 75 and sometimes hit 80. I then put the TRD cam in, what a difference. I could get up to 100 on the highway. The cam lowered my MPG slightly, but was well worth the power diffence. The guy that I sold it to had the engine rebuilt at 250K and they didn't put the cam back in. He called me asking why I thought it was so slow after the rebuild and was complaning to the mechanic how much worse it ran. We then relized that the cam was switched. Put the old cam in and it ran like a champ again.

Jason01

Last night, I went up to my girlfriends house, and at first, the truck ran fine, but after about 15 min of driving, it started to struggle to stay at 55. I eventually ended up making the last 5 miles in 4th gear. My girlfriends brother told me to gut the cat, and put in a new fuel filter, so, I'm going to do that today, along with replacing the muffler(with the resonator off a minivan). Where can I go to buy the TRD cam? I dont think that this engine would be too hard to switch the cam on.

cubuff4runner

I got my cam from the dealer.

Jason01

Well, I switched the fuel filter, changed the oil, and took it for a drive. There is a nice flat road here that is 4 miles long, and before the filter, it would top out at 65! After I did the filter, I got her up to 90, before I had to back off for traffic. Anyways, It runs great now, with much more power than before. However, the Check Engine light came on. I guess I could do a search on how to get the ECM to tell me where it hurts(if it will)....

Tacoma Dude

Jason:

If you don't have a code reader you may want to look into this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/creader-obd-ii-diagnostics-code-reader-27751/

That's only the code reader though, there are other code readers that give a more thorough report of engine performance, etc. I'm not sure where you're located but people mention that auto supply shops like Autozone, Kragen, etc will read codes for free - not in CA though

I haven't finished determining whether or not the CReader code reader is any good - whether or not it gave me the correct codes but so far it looks pretty good

rimpainter.com

Everything is cool except for gutting the cat. I thought you said you wanted TQ? I highly recommend getting a carsound cat. People get flamed hard on here for doing that.

Tacoma Dude

Yes, please be considerate to the rest of us that breathe air and DO NOT gut the cat.

Jason01

Only if it is plugged will I gut it. I am kind of broke right now, which was what I meant by cheapness counts. I would put one back on when I get $$$ again(middle of march!), but I am doubting that it is plugged right now. After the fuel filter, It now has gobs more of power. Not too shabby for me. I just need an exhaust....It broke off last night right at the muffler...its not incredibly loud, but it is annoying. I need to fix it!
Oh, I figured out the engine light. Found a site that shows how to use a jumper wire. Codes were for O2 sensor short, rich mixture, and lean mixture. I crawl underneath the truck and the friggin sensor is dangling by its wires! I found a few nuts that fit it, and put it back in. It came on again last night, but stayed out this morning. It was kinda wet when I put it in, so I'm assuming that it just needed to dry out.

One more quick question, how big is the fuel tank on this thing?(I dont have an owners manual) The guage said that it was on E last night, with only 100 miles on the tank! I filled it up, and it only took 7 gallons! What gives?

Rennurder

Header, cam, K&N filter, tweak the AFM (air flow meter), and no muffler! I gained prob. 15 hp doing this. And it really isnt any louder than a fricken ricer honda with a coffee can for a muffler!! And it sounds really cool at about 3500 rpm. But just remember...22re's are not known for HP the're known for torque. The stock torque curve for a 22re is from 2650rpm up to only like 3400rpm. And doing all the engine mods above it'll be like 2500rpm-3800rpm. Put it this way , 22res suck for on road driving but rock offroad for the pure fact that you can bog them down to 750 rpm and still torque out.


If power is what you're lookin for try LC engineering They have every engine modification for a 22r/re that you could possibly think of!!! You can even convert to propane and supercharge it if you wanna.

YotaChuck

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/afm/
do not adjust stock setups

You may be able to find that cam on ebay

Rennurder

Why not???????????????? The stock setup is for a stock rig! After putting in a K&N and a header, you completely change the amount of air induction into the motor. Ummmmm.....kinda like exactly as the link that you attached describes! And that is the info that everyone I know has used to increase power to a 22re. DO IT!!!! YOU'LL BE MUCH HAPPIER!

YotaChuck

Obvioulsly you didn't understand me. Do not adjust the afm if your ENGINE IS STOCK.