CRogge

So, 'bout 4-5 months ago, I bought my first Toy, '89 4Runner SR5. I love it! Anyway, when I got it, the cruise worked intermittantly and when it worked it seemed slow to react. Then the day I was leaving for CO. the cruise quit completly, hasn't worked since. I bought a Haynes manual thinking it would help diagnose, no luck, doesn't even acknowledge cruise control! The brake lights work fine and the parking brake light goes on and off fine. I didn't see any other switches down there. Can anyone give me some advice on how this cruise settup works, or what I should check? Thanks in Advance! -Chris Rogge

mtnfreak

I've got an FSM for the '89. I'll try to post the test procedure when I get home. It's kinda long, though.

mtnfreak

Follow these steps:
Start vehicle
Turn the set/coast switch to on & hold it there
Push the main C/C switch
Release the set/coast switch
Now record the flashes on the C/C switch light as you do the following:
Turn set/coast switch on
Turn resume/accel switch on
Drive at 25mph or more
Drive at 19mph or less
Now drive a couple of miles with the c/c on (or attempt to). Slow to 10mph or less and turn the set/coast switch 3 times in 2 seconds. Read the flashes on the main c/c switch light.

Let me know what you find. the flash codes are too long and difficult to post.

95_4X4Runner

Also, I had the "slow to react" gripe, and fixed it by adjusting the cruise cable and removing the slack.

I'd verify the signals going to the cruise ECU for the brake and clutch cancel. Also, maybe hook up a good alternate vacuum source to the servo to make sure it's getting a good vacuum.

CRogge

Wow, guys, thanks alot I'll go get to that now!

CRogge

Ok,
I pushed the main c/c switch - 2 blinks in one second
hit set/cruise - 2 blinks in one second
hit r/a - three blinks in 1.5 seconds
over 25 - constant blinks at 2 blinks per sec
under 19 - steady on
under 10, hit set/coast 3 times - constant blinks, 2 per sec

mtnfreak

Well, the results you posted seem to indicate that everything is OK. The final test is a bit confusing in the manual, but here's the best I can make of it:
Jack up the drive wheels (following proper safety procedures!!!)
Run the vehicle at idle (parking brake off)
Turn the set/coast switch on and hold it there
Push the main c/c switch
Release the set/coast switch
Check that the main c/c switch light remains off after each of
the following tests (you may have to repeat the preceding 3
steps after each test - book isn't real clear)
Press the brake pedal
Pull up on the parking brake
Push in the clutch (5 spd) or shift to neutral (auto)
The test that causes the light to come on should indicate the circuit that is the problem.

If this doesn't work, I'm stumped. I'll just have to copy the pages and mail them to you.

CRogge

Darn, each test made the light go off. I assume that means that they are all in working order? could it just be that the cable is sticking? I'm gonna try disconnecting the vacuum pod from the cable and see if it moves when I set the cruise while it is on the stands. Thanks for looking up the procedure and posting it! Peace, Chris Rogge

CRogge

I disconnected the cable and tried setting the cruise to see if the actuator would move. No dice. Is there a seperate speed sensor on the front wheels for the cruise? The cable doesn't seem stuck.

mtnfreak

Only other thing I can think of is a vacuum leak, or several small leaks. The hoses are easy to check, but I have no idea how to check the c/c modulator.
Sorry I couldn't be more help. If it makes you feel better, mine hasn't worked for several years, even after I repaired everything I could find wrong.

CRogge

With the engine running and my finger on the end of the vac hose, I can feel plenty of vacuum in the line. Oh well, I guess I'll see what the dealership knows about this on Monday. I'll let you know what they tell me. Maybe it's the same thing on both of our 4Runners! -Chris

CRogge

Ok, the dealer told me that 90% of the time when the cruise stops working on this generation, it is because the actual cruise modulator goes bad. The bad news is, from the stealership, it costs over $600! $600 for a vacuum pod? No thanks. I guess I'll just check the parts yards. thanks for the help MtnFreak peace -Chris