Sunday BBQ

Well, I've heard that manual hubs like Asain would be a good investment because they help relieve a huge amount of stress on your CV's etc. (that's what I've read). I still don't understand HOW exactly it works because aren't your CV's and everything still turning even if you had manual hubs? Someone please explain this to me. Because I don't see how it makes a difference. Maybe I'll try howthingswork.com

Tell me if it would be worth it to get the hubs if I plan on doing to following; For satisfaction for the next few years before I do a SAS, I will be running around like this: No sway bar (or disconnects... if I can make some good ones), low profile bumpstops, balljoint spacers, and later (like at least a year)a 4 inch lift and hopefully chevy springs in the rear with bigger tires. I'm not messing with the torsion bars for height because my main goal is to get all the front end flex possible. So, let's say I only did the low profile bumpstops, no sway bar, ball joint spacers, and regular offroading on the weekends, would you recommend dishing out the few bucks for the manual hubs? How do they work and how would it help? I'll miss my ADD since I can be cruisin' and just lock the hubs... but convince me to go manual!

keisur

what year, engine and stuff. 4runner, taco or what? more info needed.

your cv's won't spin in 2WD making less drag and helps with gas mileage. plus since they don't spin, the boots are less likely to get ripped when you lift. I would get them if I had the money for them.

your cv's aren't turning with manual hubs, especially if you do the "whole" job which is installing the manual hubs and permanently fixing the ADD system.

Robinhood150

No, the front axle does not spin when the manual hubs are disengaged. Manual hubs also do not relieve stress on the CV axles themselves, only the boots. When tbar lifted or spacer lifted the CV's are at a greater angle and will tend to shorten the life of the boots. Since the manual hubs allow for the axles to not turn all the time, the boot life is extended.

The only reasons I see for switching to manual hubs is to:
1. extend boot life of lifted trucks.
2. be able to unlock the hubs when an axle breaks
3. debateably better mileage

You can still have shift on the fly 4wd if you keep them locked when you think you'll need 4wd.

Roadrunner

This is a mod I've been thinking about since I drive my truck on the road alot. I just wish it wasn't so darn expensive for my '01 4Runner.

shazaam

Don't hate me, but I just got the the entire axle off of a tacoma with the manual hubs for $250

Sunday BBQ

So it won't help the actual CV's at all, only the boots? I thought the boots where easy and cheap to fix? What would be the problem with occasionally having the boots tear? I don't understand how if the CV axels aren't spinning all the time why it wouldn't help extend the life of the actual CV, and not just the boot.

Anyway, I have a '93 Pickup so it wouldn't cost me over $100 bucks altogether to get them up an running. I didn't know that I could lock the hubs and still use the ADD so that is definetely a plus! So do you think it's really worth it?

Robinhood150

You still have to remove the CV axle to replace the boots and it can be a pain in the butt for the first timer. The rebuild kit from toyota is about $25 and rebuilding it is messy. Replacing the boots every 30,000 miles (guess) can be irritating. I've got 190k miles on my original CVs with ADD flanges, they seem to be fine.

Personally, I think manual hubs are over rated for most of the people on this board. Really, the only reason I went with hubs is because I'm getting to the point where I might break a CV on the trail.

You can switch if you want, it's not that big of a deal if you don't. I do recommend them if you're going to crank the tbars or spacer lift it, though. Used aisin hubs are about $50.