Haniblectre

Ok, I just want to make sure I understand something correctly. On 4runners, adding more than 2 inches of lift causes the CV to wear out much faster than usual due to the change in angles. A "fix" for this is to install manual locking hubs which prevent it from turning when the hubs aren't locked, whereas the factory system makes it turn all the time.

So the manual hubs are basically just a "bandaid fix" to keep the cv from wearing out so quickly. The only "proper" way to lift a 4runner beyond 2 or 3 inches is to do a solid axle conversion. Do I have this straight?

Thanks for the help.

jimbo74

yes and no....

the cv design is weak by design and doesnt really allow for play, however there are other bandaid fixes that will also make the severity of the axles play less, such as a diff drop..... its not really a bandaid fix, neither are the hubs, just a weak design..... you need to think that a honda civic uses the same type of front end, control arms, struts, and cv axles......

KevyWevy

and you wouldn't necessarily need a solid axel swap, you could get a 4" manufactured suspension lift that would drop the diff and stuff and make the cv back to normal angle.

Haniblectre

Who makes such a "manufactured suspension lift" ? Is there one? The largest kit I've found that is designed specifically for the 96-02 4runners is the revtek 3" lift, but I don't think it puts the cv back at the stock angle.

KevyWevy

i didn't realize that you guys were talking about 3rd gens, oops. so i don't know if they make 4" lifts for 3rd gens. sorry

seaflea

I think you can also get a diff drop kit that goes with the rev tech kit that restores the CV angles closer to stock.

Haniblectre

Yes, there is more than one company that makes such a drop kit. Unfortunately, the only drop kits I've seen lower it 1" . This means that if you have a 3" lift, the drop kit will set the cv joint back to a milder 2" lift angle. (2" is the max lift angle that you want on the cv joint). Therefore, if you go anything above a 3" lift, the diff drop kit is no longer good enough. I wonder why someone hasn't made a 2" or 3" drop kit to allow bigger lifts. Either they don't think there is enough interest to take the time to make such a kit, or it isn't possible. I'm leaning towards the latter.

zebra1550

You could always go with a 2" suspension lift and a mild 1" Roger Brown lift. It's kind of the best of both worlds, better suspension travel without extreme stress on the CV angles. I just installed OME springs on all 4 corners, along with Bilstein shocks. I'm planning on going with a the 1" RB body lift and 285's to top it off. His website is: www.4crawler.com

I liked his reasoning behind 2" suspension and a 1" body lift , hope it helps.

zebra1550

4. Why might I need a body lift at all?
Lets assume you have installed a suspension lift in order to run larger tires. On level ground, you'll have lots of clearance between the tire and body. But, if your suspension has a decent amount of flex to it, when you bottom out the springs on the bump stops, what happens to the larger tire? Well, its now trying to fit into the same wheel well opening that was designed for the stock size tire and you may experience interference. So, by lifting the body up off the frame, you can gain clearance for larger tires to fit in off-road conditions. Other options are to trim the sheet metal around the wheel wells or run springs that are so stiff that they won't compress to the frame. I prefer a soft flexible spring with just enough lift to fit the tires, then a body lift to gain the clearance needed for off-road use.
Body lifts are also commonly used with engine swaps and modifications like installing exhaust headers, etc. Lifting the body off the frame a bit gives a bit more room for larger engines, exhaust tubing or other components to fit. I also find the increased clearance helps in routine maintenance tasks like working on starters, fuel filters, transmissions, etc.

User 051420

The traditional diff drop spacer is limited to only 1" because there is a crosmember in the way preventing the diff from lowering anymore. If you are critically worried about this (don't be), you can look into the Trailmaster 3.5" kit for the 95-2004 Tacoma. It will work just fine on your 4Runner, but it's way too expesive, unnecessary, and you'll have to find a solution for the rear. Just lift 2.5" with a 1" diff drop and be done with it. A manual hub coversion is a great solution, but costs about $700.

User 051420

Have you looked into the Tundra TRD coil solution? I'm running it, and love it. The put some OME 891 coils in back with new OME shocks. You can get the OME stuff here: http://www.xtremeoff-road.com . Tell Mike I send you.

Haniblectre

I have a 99 4runner sr5. If I did a 2.5 inch lift with a 1-2" body lift, do you think I could fit 35"ers? I've seen people who have done decent sized lifts, who had touching with 33"ers..and I've seen people with comparable lifts fit 35"ers, no problem. I guess it probably has something to do with backspacing and how wide the tire is.

I just really don't want to start hammering away at the fender wells to make room, if there is any way around it.

User 051420

Schaefer is running 35's with 2" and a 1"? body lift. Go ahead...trim away! Search for pinch weld.

User 051420

I don't think you'll like running 35's with your stock gears.......