radrex

If you've read my previous post - like many others here - I am rebuilding my wifes 3.0 3vze.

Question - Should I replace the Knock Sensor, Do they go bad?? Or should I just change out the wire (Which looks sickly).

This little unit is about 120.00. The wire is 12.00.

For 120.00 the original should last forever.

Also, I cleaned the Intake Manifold. Any suggestions on cleaning the plenum?

More absolutely stupid question coming soon...

Rex

2001 Ford Supercrew
93000 miles - $0.00 repair cost.

Astralplane

I would change the wire for sure, but not sensor.
The dealership told me that wire always goes bad and it sounds like you are confirming that. They said nothing about the sensor.
They did replace the bi-metal vacuum switching valve.
I don't know what exactly was wrong with it, they just said it needed replacement.

86toyota

Ok different engine thou,but when I bought my 92 with a blown engine(22re) I replaced the motor with a jasper. It ran good but seemed to lack power and had the check engine light on. Ran the code....knock sensor. I thought could this actually make a difference? Dealer wanted something outragous , so I got one from the junk yard for ten bucks. After the install, night and day difference. Mine screws on the outside of the block thou. Yours is under the intake,right? If no code before I wouldn't replace it but if only $12 for the wire, why not replace that.

radrex

Yep, I'm going to change the wire for sure.

I'm going to have to research the bi-metal vacuum switching valve, I have no idea what that is - or where it is. I'm sure it is one of the multiple and various vaccum related pieces bolted onto the Intake Plenum.

Anyone know what that huge disk looking thing under the Exhaust manifold on the drivers side is?? That looks important. Another Japanese mystery not shown or talked about in the Chilton manual. I have a Haynes ordered and hope it is better.

FireMan

If you are looking at the block itself, then it is the oil cooler. From what I've read, it came as part of a tow package.

Firefyter-Emt

Yep, oil cooler.. As for the wire, never, never, never ever even so much as touch that wire without buying a new one.. It is just not worth the 1/2 a day to rip the motor back apart to replace if it breaks. It is a shielded wire, and I think that is what goes bad. Also it is coaxal and have a very thin center wire. ( I think some had normal wires though instead of the coaxal though..)

FireMan

As Firefyter-Emt knows my plight so far, taking all the crap off that you do is a PITA! If wish I still had my 65' Pontiac sometimes. Though I couldn't go off road, and it was a land yacht,
when you opened the hood, you saw engine, carburator, distributor, alternator, and ps pump. All had about a mile of room inbetween to work in. Ohh well.

mtnfreak

Is there any way to test this wire and/or the knock sensor? After doing some work involving removing the intake plenum and wires underneath, I've developed a knock/ping under light loads and light throttle.

radrex

Keep the sensor - change the wire. It's about 12 bucks.