How to get at top rear shock bolts

quik05 · 03-02-2008, 02:02 PM

Trying to replace rear shocks, bottom is easy. I cant even see the top bolts. is there something I am missing? From where I am sitting the only way to get at those bolts/nuts is to take the whole damn body off. Who the hell would design something this way.

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

pattycakes77 · 03-02-2008, 02:16 PM

when i helped a friend put the lift on my 4runner it was a challenge. we had it up on a lift too and we still had to be contortionists to get in there. it wasn't bad just to get my hand on it, but fitting a socket and ratchet in there and then having the leverage to crank it off after 10 years in iowa was the big challenge. also, i had about an inch or more of dirt and sand that had to be cleaned out of the little cup area before i even got to the nut holding the shock on. i can't give you specifics about how to do it, but it does involve some twisting and maybe some odd yoga poses

Elton · 03-02-2008, 02:20 PM

sawzall

MTL_4runner · 03-02-2008, 02:21 PM

Use a sawzall and cut right through the top stud of the shock at the rubber bushing.
You'll have them both done in about 30 seconds per side.

quik05 · 03-02-2008, 02:24 PM

crap, I dont have a sawzall

jct61765 · 03-02-2008, 02:26 PM

Buy one, you'll use it again. They come in handy.

MTL_4runner · 03-02-2008, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quik05

crap, I dont have a sawzall

Then buy or rent one.

SC4Runner · 03-02-2008, 02:41 PM

If you don't go that route, you can just put the socket up on there, then use a pipe wrench or something similar, and turn the shock body itself, as the socket/ratchet will wedge and hit the body/frame and thats all you need to do. Don't bother trying to turn the rachet itself, it will be too hard.

edzo · 03-02-2008, 04:43 PM

sawzall.

I had like a 7 foot 300lb mechanic put new shocks in for me. I wondered
how he was gonna put his ginormous mitts in there. he just cut them off
and new shocks went in fine with a ratchet and holding the shaft of the
shock

dusty98 · 03-02-2008, 06:12 PM

I ended up using a sawzal on mine.
I read tons of posts on how to get those rear shocks off. I tried everything that normally works: PBblaster soaking for days, torch, hammer, strap wrench, vise grips.
On one shock I had everything starting to work & then the top bolt rounded. That was the last straw!

I borrowed my friend's sawzall & bought a metal blade. They were off shortly after that.

Good luck!

111db · 03-02-2008, 06:21 PM

Cut the chrome rod as close to the top as possible - it holds fluid lower down. If you cut where the fluid reservoir is, you'll get doused with shock oil. I don't have a sawzall either, I used a high speed angle grinder with a cutoff wheel.

quik05 · 03-02-2008, 06:50 PM

I guess the general consensus is to cut them off. By the way what are the torque specs for the top and bottom bolts, the all the online manuals I can find are all for tacomas and are hence useless.

Mason Dixon · 03-02-2008, 07:16 PM

I'm having this very problem right now....only thing is I can't use a sawzall at the top because my flares get in the way....gonna take it to a shop tomorrow with air tools and get them to cut it off. I've tried everything else too including heating it up with a torch and using wax to break the bond the rust has. No dice.

bottom bolt is 47 not sure about top

edit: Did you guys have to bend the sawzall blade to get it snug up to the top? Will the blade take that safely?

MTL_4runner · 03-03-2008, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mason Dixon

edit: Did you guys have to bend the sawzall blade to get it snug up to the top? Will the blade take that safely?

I don't understand why your flares get in the way, you need to take out the spare tire and sit underneath to cut them out. I used a 9" Milwaukee torch metal cutting blade on the sawzall and yes, it did bend a bit but no problems cutting them off.

djlopaka · 03-04-2008, 12:44 AM

just install a body lift, then it is easy to replace...just hold bolt from outside of frame(by tire) since now there is a gap between body and frame...

Matt16 · 03-04-2008, 12:55 AM

I tried screwing around with a wrench/pliers etc for hours. Eventually I gave up, bought a $20 angle grinder and cut the shock shaft. Then started slicing it away bit by bit until it pulled out the top. You must slice from the bottom because there are brake lines above the shock mount.

75w90mantraN · 07-06-2008, 04:47 AM

Top shock nut torque specs for 3rd gen 4Runners: 14ft/lbs or 168in/lbs according to the FSM/Hanes manual.

Just about had it with my rear shock nuts too. Looking into the strap wrench/vise grips/cut-off methods at getting this POS off. PB blaster might need a little more help. And good grief, the access design is just bull. Not sure if torquing that top nut is actually possible less a smaller 1/4 drive torque wrench was available.

kmcaprice14 · 07-06-2008, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75w90mantraN

Top shock nut torque specs for 3rd gen 4Runners: 14ft/lbs or 168in/lbs according to the FSM/Hanes manual.

Just about had it with my rear shock nuts too. Looking into the strap wrench/vise grips/cut-off methods at getting this POS off. PB blaster might need a little more help. And good grief, the access design is just bull. Not sure if torquing that top nut is actually possible less a smaller 1/4 drive torque wrench was available.

skip all the steps... just go straight to cutting it off. Trust me. Just try to cut ABOVE the rubber bushing (between the rubber bushing and the mounting cups). I first cut THROUGH the rubber bushings just to find out that they are attached to the shock shaft. They are nearly impossible to get off, so just cut above them taking caution not to cut the mounting cups.

As for torquing the nuts, just hand tight using a small socket wrench with a deep socket... I tried hand tightening with a torque wrench on another nut, and found what 14 pounds should be, then applied similar force to the crown nut. Not scientific, but hey, it worked. I have since put 10k miles on them with no problems.

crolison · 07-06-2008, 11:07 AM

What i did was put a socket up there and held the shock with some dykes, it tore the crap out of the old shocks, but it got them off.

I second just sawing them off, its the easiest way, since they are gonna get ruined period.

DailyDrive · 07-06-2008, 12:30 PM

Sawing off the old shock is good and all. But how do you tighten the new one if there was no way to get the wrench in there in the fist place?

crolison · 07-06-2008, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DailyDrive

Sawing off the old shock is good and all. But how do you tighten the new one if there was no way to get the wrench in there in the fist place?

Yeah you got plenty of room to get a socket up there and tighten a new shock. Its just that old shocks are nice and seized up and hard to get out.

You can do what i did, so you can run normal eye and eye shocks.

DailyDrive · 07-06-2008, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crolison

You can do what i did, so you can run normal eye and eye shocks.

I already did my shocks, but installed a 2" body lift just prior to the job. That allowed just enough clearance to stick a smaller size ratchet and a shallow socket in there. I don't know how it would be possible to do a quality tighten job without those extra 2".

By the way, your rear sway is going to fall off

b88miller · 07-07-2008, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djlopaka

just install a body lift, then it is easy to replace...just hold bolt from outside of frame(by tire) since now there is a gap between body and frame...

BINGO! I discovered this myself installing my lifts on my truck. I did the body lift prior to replacing the springs/shocks which made getting to the top rear shock nuts a piece of cake.

I squeezed the heck out of the upper shock with a big channel lock and then used a ratchet with socket from the fender well. I think it was a deep socket I used and the ratchet fits perfect just above the frame.

I was going to pass this along to you folks who are considering a body lift in conjunction with a suspension lift. Do the body lift first, this makes replacing the rear shocks much easier!

Have a good week!

Brian

Team420 · 07-07-2008, 06:31 AM

I have no body lift, and I think it took me all of 1/2 hour to get these shocks out, I cant remember exactly what I did, but I did not cut anything. There should be enough room, if you cant cut them out.

*EDIT*
After some thought...I think I did put the socket and ratchet in there, and just use the shock itself to work the bolt loose, just keep wrenching back and forth on the shock till that bolt loosens up, then, there is only just enough room to fit your hands in there to tighten the new shocks. Good luck

MadCityRich · 07-07-2008, 06:54 AM

Quote:

You can do what i did, so you can run normal eye and eye shocks.

I'm not so sure that is safe. The design Toyota uses is meant to pivot in more directions than the classic eye shocks can pivot. Maybe it's fine, but it looks like you've got a rigid mount where the adapter mates to the stock shock mount. That could be putting a lot of unplanned for forces on that shock mount area.

I will say that removing the rear shocks has got to be the worst job I've done on the 4Runner to date. First, I used a cut-off wheel and sliced into the fluid reservoir. Yuck! The sawzall did me right in the end and the second shock came off nice and quick.

MadCityRich

03-02-2008, 02:16 PM	#2 (permalink)
pattycakes77 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,080	when i helped a friend put the lift on my 4runner it was a challenge. we had it up on a lift too and we still had to be contortionists to get in there. it wasn't bad just to get my hand on it, but fitting a socket and ratchet in there and then having the leverage to crank it off after 10 years in iowa was the big challenge. also, i had about an inch or more of dirt and sand that had to be cleaned out of the little cup area before i even got to the nut holding the shock on. i can't give you specifics about how to do it, but it does involve some twisting and maybe some odd yoga poses __________________ The PATYWGN: 1998 4Runner Desert Dune Pearl. PATYWGN show-off thread Sport Hood FAQ

03-02-2008, 02:20 PM	#3 (permalink)
Elton Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Siletz,Oregon Posts: 10,464	sawzall __________________ My Truck 98 4runner SR5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 E-Locker Mods Mom 07 Tundra d-cab limited 5.7L 4x4 auto sister 92 pickup SR5 X-cab 3.0L 5spd 4x4 Papa 89 Pickup SR5 X-cab 4x4 3.0L 5spd/98 4runner SR5 4x4 auto 3.4L R.I.P 91 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0L 5spd Totaled 5/13/06 My Wreck

03-02-2008, 02:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
MTL_4runner Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Montreal, QC Canada Posts: 8,807	Use a sawzall and cut right through the top stud of the shock at the rubber bushing. You'll have them both done in about 30 seconds per side. __________________ - Jamie 1996 4Runner SR5 4X4 Auto Deckplate Mod, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Amsoil Air Filter, OME 881/906 N86C/N91SC Lift Best OBD II scan tool I have used!. .....and I am AMERICAN!

03-02-2008, 02:24 PM	#5 (permalink)
quik05 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Newton, Kansas Posts: 45	crap, I dont have a sawzall __________________ 2001 2wd 4runner Limited 5VZ-FE V6 auto Thundercloud Metallic ISR+Deckplate-Done!

03-02-2008, 02:26 PM	#6 (permalink)
jct61765 Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Peterborough, New Hampshire Posts: 431	Buy one, you'll use it again. They come in handy. __________________ 2002 4runner sport 4X4 87,000 and counting 2007 Camry LE "I'm bitterly clinging to Guns and Religion" (and I'll keep the rest of the constitution too)

03-02-2008, 02:41 PM	#8 (permalink)
SC4Runner Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: 5th Gen San Diegan, California Posts: 5,869	If you don't go that route, you can just put the socket up on there, then use a pipe wrench or something similar, and turn the shock body itself, as the socket/ratchet will wedge and hit the body/frame and thats all you need to do. Don't bother trying to turn the rachet itself, it will be too hard. __________________ 1996 4x4 3.4L 4Runner on 35's - 6" of lift, MTR's, E-locked, ARB Tacoma Bumper, Sliders and a cut off tail pipe. 1966 FJ40 - SOA with stock springs, stock 1F motor, and a smelly tailpipe.

03-02-2008, 04:43 PM	#9 (permalink)
edzo Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 155	sawzall. I had like a 7 foot 300lb mechanic put new shocks in for me. I wondered how he was gonna put his ginormous mitts in there. he just cut them off and new shocks went in fine with a ratchet and holding the shaft of the shock

03-02-2008, 06:12 PM	#10 (permalink)
dusty98 Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: stuart, fl Posts: 273	I ended up using a sawzal on mine. I read tons of posts on how to get those rear shocks off. I tried everything that normally works: PBblaster soaking for days, torch, hammer, strap wrench, vise grips. On one shock I had everything starting to work & then the top bolt rounded. That was the last straw! I borrowed my friend's sawzall & bought a metal blade. They were off shortly after that. Good luck! __________________ 98 4Runner SR5 4WD, Desert Dune Revos, Custom mounted Hella 550s, Yakima Rack 99 Corolla, 38mpg.

03-02-2008, 06:21 PM	#11 (permalink)
111db Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 1,215	Cut the chrome rod as close to the top as possible - it holds fluid lower down. If you cut where the fluid reservoir is, you'll get doused with shock oil. I don't have a sawzall either, I used a high speed angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. __________________ Jon *97 4Runner 3.4 4.88's * ARB Lockers F/R * ARB compressor * Sonoran Steel numba 1 * 285 BFG AT/KO * TJM 17 * BudBuilt Skids * Stubbs Sliders & BBQ sauce * Irbis out back * Various Electronic Gadgets**

03-02-2008, 06:50 PM	#12 (permalink)
quik05 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Newton, Kansas Posts: 45	I guess the general consensus is to cut them off. By the way what are the torque specs for the top and bottom bolts, the all the online manuals I can find are all for tacomas and are hence useless. __________________ 2001 2wd 4runner Limited 5VZ-FE V6 auto Thundercloud Metallic ISR+Deckplate-Done!

03-02-2008, 07:16 PM	#13 (permalink)
Mason Dixon Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Posts: 796	I'm having this very problem right now....only thing is I can't use a sawzall at the top because my flares get in the way....gonna take it to a shop tomorrow with air tools and get them to cut it off. I've tried everything else too including heating it up with a torch and using wax to break the bond the rust has. No dice. bottom bolt is 47 not sure about top edit: Did you guys have to bend the sawzall blade to get it snug up to the top? Will the blade take that safely? __________________ http://www.sectalk.com/images/graphi...ds/alabama.gif 2000 4Runner SR5 4x4 Sport Last edited by Mason Dixon; 03-02-2008 at 07:20 PM.

03-04-2008, 12:44 AM	#15 (permalink)
djlopaka Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Hawaii Posts: 16	easy way just install a body lift, then it is easy to replace...just hold bolt from outside of frame(by tire) since now there is a gap between body and frame... __________________ 1997 4Runner Alot of mods will list later date More pics just visit myspace link http://www.myspace.com/4runnerlover

07-06-2008, 04:47 AM	#17 (permalink)
75w90mantraN Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 18	Top shock nut torque specs for 3rd gen 4Runners: 14ft/lbs or 168in/lbs according to the FSM/Hanes manual. Just about had it with my rear shock nuts too. Looking into the strap wrench/vise grips/cut-off methods at getting this POS off. PB blaster might need a little more help. And good grief, the access design is just bull. Not sure if torquing that top nut is actually possible less a smaller 1/4 drive torque wrench was available. __________________ 2000 4Runner V-6 3.4L FI 5VZ-FE, 5-spd manual, NGK plugs/wires, Amsoil: filter/engine oil 5w-30, tranmission/transfer case 75w-90 GL-4, rear diff 80w-90 GL-5, front 75w-90 GL-5, Trekmasters/OME 890 in the rear, Centric disc rotors w/ Hawk LTS pads, slowly upgrading seized, stripped or broken, impossible access to hard-to-reach places, discovering I don't have the tool/part needed to finish the job, in the middle of the job....PRICELESS & worth it all once achieved! Last edited by 75w90mantraN; 07-06-2008 at 04:53 AM.

07-06-2008, 11:07 AM	#19 (permalink)
crolison Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: knoxville, tn Posts: 2,257	What i did was put a socket up there and held the shock with some dykes, it tore the crap out of the old shocks, but it got them off. I second just sawing them off, its the easiest way, since they are gonna get ruined period. __________________ 97 4runner, 2.7 5speed 4wd, 5.29, 33 horns armor locked lifted heavy SOB broken front and rear swaybars My Profile..

07-06-2008, 12:30 PM	#20 (permalink)
DailyDrive Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 312	Sawing off the old shock is good and all. But how do you tighten the new one if there was no way to get the wrench in there in the fist place? __________________ '99 4WD 3.4L SR5 AT

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Top shock bolt not reuseable (front shocks)	aaronk	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	5	02-10-2008 08:58 AM
Removable Top Bolts?	PioneerPete	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	12	10-02-2007 09:39 AM
3vze top end rebuild (head bolts)	Desert Rat	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	10	01-01-2006 09:24 AM
flatbed and shock rear shock mount	934rnr	The Fab Shop	28	07-22-2005 09:49 AM
How many bolts do you leave in for a 1st Gen Top?	gohawks	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	7	05-17-2005 07:57 AM