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Old 10-05-2004, 04:46 PM
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Question Help with Wet NO2 System?

I think I understand the wet Nitrious Oxide System, but bear with me. With a wet system, NO is injected into the intake, and more fuel is injected as well - but neither through the stock fuel injectors, right? The NO System automatically injects more fuel as soon as it injects NO as to create a rich enough fuel mixture, right? The NO "sprayer/injector" can be installed somewhere along the intake, like right before the throttle, right? How would you install another fuel "sprayer/injector," could you install it on the fuel rail? Thanks for any help, I'd really appreciate it.

Last edited by YotaTruck1986; 10-05-2004 at 06:23 PM.
Old 10-05-2004, 04:50 PM
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dont ruin ur engine with nos, save for a turbo or something
Old 10-05-2004, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cacattack
dont ruin ur engine with nos, save for a turbo or something
I've seriously been considering a turbo for my 22RE, but after doing some research, it seems that adding a turbo might not be a good idea. According to TurboToys.net (great site!) "The stock 22RE compression ratio is simply too high to support a turbo..." With the Wet NO System, you don't have to worry about your compression ratio, right? Becuase the system adds more fuel with the injection of NO. TurboToys also reccomended not adding a turbo to the 22RE because in the long run, it's probably going to have problems. Plus I'm looking for inexpensive power.

Can NOS really ruin your engine? Even if you run low amounts? (Is this called "shots?" Like a "35 shot, 75 shot, 100 shot," etc.?)

Last edited by YotaTruck1986; 10-05-2004 at 05:14 PM.
Old 10-05-2004, 06:09 PM
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I say bull˟˟˟˟. Even a 10:1 compression ratio can be turboed, it just makes things a lot more tricky.

Secondarily using nitrous/supercharger/turbo are ALL the SAME.

You are introducing more air and more fuel into the given combustion chambers, one is a chemical means the rest are mechanical. There is no difference.

Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 10-05-2004 at 06:13 PM.
Old 10-05-2004, 06:13 PM
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Alright, I can help here since I actually have experience with this. Not to disrespect anyone here, but most people here have insane off road knowledge, but not much engine knowledge. I have a background in street cars and know alot about engines and not much about off road suspension stuff.

Anyway, yes, if you stay with the right sized NO2 kit, your 22R will last just as long as it would stock. What a wet system does is it has 2 fuel pumps that mount in your engine bay.....one for the NO and one for fuel. They both route into a nozzle which injects te fuel and NO at the same time. They usually use an orifice to premeasure the amout of fuel and NO that is injected. When you buy a kit, it will come with everything that you need and they are fairly easy to hook up.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. I think with what I explained and what you already know, you should be on the right track.

I will comment on the turbo though. There are several companies that make low compression pistons for the 22R. Also, just about any engine can run a turbo on low boost with no problems. I say almost any engine because I'm sure that someone will bring up the American Muscle cars of the late 60's that run a 12:1CR and have to run on either leaded or race fuel. Anyway, you can safely run 5-7psi on a stock 22R without any problems. If you did have knock at that low of a boost, you could run larger injectors, a boost-a-pump, or a Supra fuel pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

I haven't ever checked out the website that you posted, but you can leasrn alot about turbos and how to avoid knock on most Supra, MR2 or Celica All-Trac/GT-Four websites. These are the guys that are running the high boost applications and run into all of the problems associated with turbos.
Old 10-05-2004, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
I say bull˟˟˟˟. Even a 10:1 compression ratio can be turboed, it just makes things a lot more tricky.

Secondarily using nitrous/supercharger/turbo are ALL the SAME.

You are introducing more air and more fuel into the given combustion chambers, one is a chemical means the rest are mechanical. There is no difference.
Very true.......it's just that most NO2 kits are better engineered than most Turbo and Supercharger kits. It's sad really.
Old 10-05-2004, 06:20 PM
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Wow, thanks guys, that was really helpful. So fuel and NO2 are injected into the intake through the same injector? And the fuel/NO2 mixture runs in before the throttle opening? If so, it sounds like a very easy install, just some drilling into the intake tubing. Dan, would you reccomend finding a 22RET and taking the turbo components from it (or purchasing a kit) and installing it on my 22RE, or using a wet NO2 Kit? Thanks.
Old 10-05-2004, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by YotaTruck1986
Wow, thanks guys, that was really helpful. So fuel and NO2 are injected into the intake through the same injector? And the fuel/NO2 mixture runs in before the throttle opening? If so, it sounds like a very easy install, just some drilling into the intake tubing. Dan, would you reccomend finding a 22RET and taking the turbo components from it (or purchasing a kit) and installing it on my 22RE, or using a wet NO2 Kit? Thanks.
Well, it's very popular on the 5S-FE and 3S-GE to take the manifold and turbo off a 3S-GTE and use it on the engine that came stock in your particular car. So, in my opinion, I say yes....I would do that. But I will worn you to be careful with that. You need to know completely how a turbo system works if you went that route. I personally like custom set-up better because like I said in my last post about NO2 kits being better engineered.

I personally like turbos better than any other power adder, but they are also the most complex and most misunderstood. If you go that route be careful and you can always message me if you need more indepth help on it.
Old 10-05-2004, 07:54 PM
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I just wanted to clarify something that dan mentioned, when you are using a wet nitrous system you will have 2 solenoids one for the nitrous and one for the fuel. The reason they call it a wet system is because it actually sprays raw fuel along with the nitrous with the same nozzle. Just make sure you nitrous and fuel atomize well and doesnt puddle in the intake tract. Usually they suggest mounting the nozzle 6-8" away from the throttle body. I would say you'd be safe using a 50-75 shot of nitrous, just make sure that check the plugs to make sure the motor is not running lean and that it has good compression. You wouldnt wanna juice a motor on its last legs. Anything higher than 75+ shot you would probably want to consider direct port system.
Old 10-06-2004, 03:10 AM
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I run a NOS Cheater setup on my car (150-250hp adjustable) it's also a wet kit but it's a plate system. You'll probably end up using a single fogger nozzle which the fuel and N2O get shot through. Just looking on Holley's NOS site, they have a universal wet kit for EFI (Power Fogger). Power ranges from 30, 50, 75 for 4 and 6 cylinder engines. I'd recommend getting some new spark plugs, possibly 2 sets, start at the lower power level just to make sure things work properly and work your way up from there. The reason for 2 sets of new spark plugs is, the N2O also acts like a combustion chamber cleaner and may foul your plugs the first times you use it. Check your plugs right after you run it to see how things are. You'd probaby get quite a few runs out of a 10 lb bottle too, I only get about 3 to 4 runs before having to refill but that's at the 210 hp level
Old 10-06-2004, 05:23 PM
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Thanks for all the input guys, it's been really helpful. I think I understand the system, and could probably install a wet kit on my truck. The only hard part might be finding a place to tap into the fuel. Could I go into the fuel rail? Thanks.
Old 10-06-2004, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by YotaTruck1986
Thanks for all the input guys, it's been really helpful. I think I understand the system, and could probably install a wet kit on my truck. The only hard part might be finding a place to tap into the fuel. Could I go into the fuel rail? Thanks.
You can get a "T" fitting to tap into the rubber fuel line. Just put some hose clamps on it and you're good to go. That's the easy part. The wiring is what I always have to double check myself on. I hate electrical stuff.
Old 10-06-2004, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan_90SR5
You can get a "T" fitting to tap into the rubber fuel line. Just put some hose clamps on it and you're good to go. That's the easy part. The wiring is what I always have to double check myself on. I hate electrical stuff.
So there's a rubber hose running to the fuel rail, and can just tap it with a T fitting, and run that to the solenoid?
Old 10-06-2004, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by YotaTruck1986
So there's a rubber hose running to the fuel rail, and can just tap it with a T fitting, and run that to the solenoid?
if you go this route make sure that you use fuel injection line, regular fuel line is not meant for the higher pressures and may fail prematurely
Old 10-07-2004, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by superjoe83
if you go this route make sure that you use fuel injection line, regular fuel line is not meant for the higher pressures and may fail prematurely
Where would I find the fuel injection line? Is it the one running to the fuel rail? Thanks.
Old 10-07-2004, 05:03 PM
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I just wanted to post a diagram of my understanding of the wet nitrous system - to make sure I understand it right. If anyone can see any problems in my diagram, please post. (I didn't draw all the electrical that connects to the solenoids and switch. I think I understand that much.) Thanks for all the help.

Also, when your talking about "shots," using a "35 shot" would be like an additional 35 HP running Nitrous? How is the amount of "shot" controlled? Does the fogger nozzle control it by allowing only a certain amount of fuel/nitrous mixture out? Thanks.

Old 10-07-2004, 05:34 PM
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Your drawing looks good. The ammount of fuel and nitrous is controled by a couple things each. Bottle pressure, fuel pressure and the jets you use in the fogger nozzle. A 35 shot means it's 35 hp but that doesn't mean that's what you'll get. Could be slightly more or less depending on how it's tuned but it isn't far off. One of the ways to tune it is with a fuel pressure regulator to make the mixture richer or leaner. The instructions have a section on doing a base tune that's pretty safe.
Old 10-07-2004, 05:59 PM
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Thanks for the reply White83.

Just a quick question - what would happen if you replaced the Nitrous Oxide bottle with highly compressed air? Nothing? Thanks.
Old 10-07-2004, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by YotaTruck1986
Thanks for the reply White83.

Just a quick question - what would happen if you replaced the Nitrous Oxide bottle with highly compressed air? Nothing? Thanks.
just plain air wouldn't work, nitrous oxide works because when you expose it to temperatures around 600 degrees, it changes form in to oxygen and nitrogen, you get your power from the extra oxygen, the nitrogen that is in the combustion chamber does not burn, but to an extent slows the burning of the pure oxygen, this is why nitrous works so well, in theory you could inject pure oxygen in with extra fuel, but that would be asking for catastrophic failure
Old 10-08-2004, 02:36 PM
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Just wondering if tons of high compressed air could be shot into the intake (with additional fuel of course) somewhat like a F/I setup.


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