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Help!!! Installing my locker!

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Old 07-05-2003, 03:26 PM
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Exclamation Help!!! Installing my locker!

Okay..... I'm *Trying* to install my lockright in my front IFS. I don't think I'm going to be able to. Please let me know if there are any tricks. My problem is my front truss. It's an aftermarket tube(believe Rancho), that was bolted, then welded into place. I can't reach the nut inside the lower control arms to unbolt the front diff support. And I'm getting a little overwhelmed. My dad is helping and we are both stumped. How much do you think a mech. would charge? I've got a local mechanic that is a toyota expert. Toyota 4x4 modifications are his specialty. If it's a 4 hour job for a novice(according to Powertraxx), then I'm SURE that a mech. can do it in 4 hours. So am I looking at another $250? I'm stumped and need some help here.....

Thanks
Old 07-05-2003, 05:09 PM
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What truck do you have???

I recently installed an ARB in my front diff and getting the diff out of the truck was a serious undertaking. I had two buds helping me and it was still a bear.

I am not sure what you are talking about with this truss thing, but if it is welded in such a way as to block you from removing the mounting bolts then how do you plan on getting it off? How would a mechanic do it any different?

Also, I will tell you this, 4 hours to install a locker in the front diff is BS. It took the three of use 8 hours, but we were learning, now I am sure if I were to do another one, it would shave at least a couple of hours off, but I really doubt I could every do it in 4 hours.

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Old 07-05-2003, 05:42 PM
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It's a 1991 Pickup. I've got a 3" Rancho susp lift with diff drop and truss. The front truss is a tube style. On the passenger side of the truss is a round "washer" type mounting plate. The front diff has a large loop that sticks out and between the passenger lower arm and that mounting plate. There are bushings in between all these parts. So basically the diff mounts to the truss and lower control arm at the front. I can get to the head of the bolt easily since it sticks out of the mounting plate, but the nut is inside of the lower arm. I'm thinking that the mech might have some sort of wrench that he might be able to slide inside the small opening to hold the nut. With the bolt taken out, the diff cover can be taken off. I can get to all of the cover bolts easily, it's just that front mounting bolt that I can't get. With the front cover off, there is just enough room to work with the gears without removing the diff completely. I might try again tomorrow getting that bolt removed. As far as I can see, that is the only thing hindering me. A few hours away from the truck has given me a clearer head.
Old 07-05-2003, 06:01 PM
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A normal mechanic is not likely to have a modified front diff mounting bolt with a welded over truss removal wrench.

You might just need to cut an access hole in that truss thing to get at it.

The most important thing is you need to plan on how you are going to reinstall that blind nut thing if you do get lucky and get it off.

I am not framilure with your year truck or this truss thing you are talking about so I can't help you there. I do wish you luck!

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Old 07-05-2003, 06:50 PM
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Originally posted by Gadget
A normal mechanic is not likely to have a modified front diff mounting bolt with a welded over truss removal wrench.
Come on man! Every decent mechanic has one of those! LOL!

Dan
Old 02-28-2016, 04:14 AM
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How did this turnout? I have a Spartan Locker for my 91 Pickup V6.... Local Mechanic told me it would take 8 hours to install it, $800-900. Not sure what I'm getting into but I sure need that locker up front! Any advice or input? Thanks!
Old 02-28-2016, 06:56 AM
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removing the IFS 3rd

You know this thread dates back to 2003. Removing the 3rd is not very hard....you may want to give it a try yourself. cross-member.....3 big mount bolts....cv flange 6 nuts. I have an old link of the removal I did way back in 04.....
http://gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

Special note----the cv flanges are secured by 6 17mm nuts/bolts. The bolts are serrated and pressed in to the 6 flange holes...they don't turn. The nuts will turn and come off. I recommend once you have the 3rd out to tap all the serrated bolts out and high speed sand off the serrations. Mskes it easier to put the 3rd in place and get the cv's to easily line up.

ps--- congrats on selecting the Spartan.....best of the lunchbox style lockers.

Last edited by ZUK; 02-28-2016 at 06:59 AM.
Old 02-29-2016, 06:24 AM
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NICE! Definitely the most detailed guide I've seen yet on YouTube! Thanks!

Is there estimate for how many hours it would take to remove the front diff, install the locker and reinstall the differential?
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