green and red coolant
#41
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Richard, I appreciate the clarification, but I believe the Prestone Extended Life 50/50 is based on OAT technology only (which is why it contains no Silicates, Phosphates or Borates) and this makes it easy to mix with other coolants as the public so often does. That is also why they claim to have such a long change interval (OAT technology actually increases protection with time, but the short term or in the case of cavitation is where you have issues). If it is OAT as I suspect, that would also make it a close cousin to Dexcool.
DAMN, so you are saying that the 50/50 "works with any color" is a close cousing to the dexcool????
#42
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The idea isn't that this OAT only stuff will suddenly blow up your motor for no good reason, just that I believe there are better coolants designed for use in your truck. It's also a free country so now that you have all the info, use whatever makes floats your boat. I had been running the Prestone Long Life 5/150 orange coolant in mine for about 2 years before I decided that I just didn't feel comfortable using it. So did my engine blow up or spring a leak? No.....but I'm not going to chance any future issues.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 02-09-2007 at 03:47 PM.
#43
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Richard, I appreciate the clarification, but I believe the Prestone Extended Life 50/50 is based on OAT technology only (which is why it contains no Silicates, Phosphates or Borates) and this makes it easy to mix with other coolants as the public so often does. That is also why they claim to have such a long change interval (OAT technology actually increases protection with time, but the short term or in the case of cavitation is where you have issues). If it is OAT as I suspect, that would also make it a close cousin to Dexcool.
After tracking down enough info, what I'm thinking is that you are right, PEL 50/50 is an organic tech. There is a lot of theory on cavitation and gel related problems. Also there have apparently been forumulation changes in the DEX-COOL spec to accomadate that potential problem.
Our worst problem in the 3VZE engine may be corrosion related, which seems to be best protected with the OAT spec. As to cavitation and/or gel related problems, that should show up as a temperature problem, which admittedly, many drivers might miss if they do not have high awareness of their engine temperature. The gel problem would show up as gel in the overflow, or on the bottom of the radiator cap. Those are checks I make periodically anyway.
In any event, I've learned something, and will stick with Prestone Extended Life 50/50 for the benefits of the OAT technology, while carefully watching for any signs of cavitation or gel. My bet is that I will continue to have the best of both worlds, ie: long life, best corrosion protection, convenience and price.
Thanks for the info. Feel free to add any other observations.
#44
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I learn new stuff all the time here too and it's not a crime last time I checked.
The good thing about OAT coolant is you can usually add it to other types too, so you could mix with phosphate or silcate based coolants to give you a bit more stort term and cavitation protection.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 02-09-2007 at 03:39 PM.
#45
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Yeah, but now after reading more and according to Jamie, it looks like the red is the way to go! I'm gonna have to do this soon. It's got me worried now! Yikes!
#46
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No worries, that's what YT is here for.
I learn new stuff all the time here too and it's not a crime last time I checked.
The good thing about OAT coolant is you can usually add it to other types too, so you could mix with phosphate or silcate based coolants to give you a bit more stort term and cavitation protection.
I learn new stuff all the time here too and it's not a crime last time I checked.
The good thing about OAT coolant is you can usually add it to other types too, so you could mix with phosphate or silcate based coolants to give you a bit more stort term and cavitation protection.
So far (6 months), I've had rock solid temp control, nothing but clean coolant, and zero coolant added. Hits the hi and low mark on heating and cooling exactly as it should.
At the one year mark, I will draw out one gallon and replace with one new gallon of 50/50. At that time, I will check for clarity and gel components.
And report back on this thread, good or bad. It will need a bump by that time...
#47
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CJM, I'm not hear to argue with you or to start some sort of trouble. I have been at this stuff for about 45 years of driving and working on my own vehicles. My statements are based on fact as stated in the manual and they are the statements of the Toyota engineers. If you choose not to believe them or you feel you know better then they do then that's fine, but don't put me down for pointing out what they state in person and in the manual. They do point out what to use and what not to use and that's what I was stating here.
If my own mechanic who runs a pro street dragster runs plain old prestone and only flushes that car every 3 years and its fine then I dont see a problem running it in my truck.
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Well would prestone's version of "dex cool" be bad too? I think prestone would of "updated" there coolant so they arent liable either. Is the DEX COOL OEM coolant causing these problems? Either way its coming out for pink, but i odnt htink the prestone dex cool is THAT bad. It been fine a few cars we own.
#49
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#50
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Well would prestone's version of "dex cool" be bad too? I think prestone would of "updated" there coolant so they arent liable either. Is the DEX COOL OEM coolant causing these problems? Either way its coming out for pink, but i odnt htink the prestone dex cool is THAT bad. It been fine a few cars we own.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 02-10-2007 at 03:08 AM.
#51
For what it's worth:
I had a coolant flush done at my local dealer. They put green coolant in the 4Runner to fill. With other Toyotas they used pink (my old '95 V6 PU). I think it's all the same stuff.
Color really doesn't matter. I've got blue stuff in my BMW (256k miles on that engine). What you need to check is the side of the bottle and make sure it says it's OK for aluminum. For most coolant on the market, this is the case. There aren't too many engines out there without a good amount of aluminum anymore.
The bigger issue is making sure your coolant stays fresh. This means flushing every two years or so. Acids build up and can start to corrode things otherwise.
It doesn't matter if it's ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. Propylene glycol is less toxic and has a slightly lower heat transfer coefficient. Everyone says Dexcool sucks, even GM. So stay away from Dexcool.
If your coolant is aluminum safe and isn't too old, then don't worry about it.
MadCityRich
2002 4Runner Ltd
I had a coolant flush done at my local dealer. They put green coolant in the 4Runner to fill. With other Toyotas they used pink (my old '95 V6 PU). I think it's all the same stuff.
Color really doesn't matter. I've got blue stuff in my BMW (256k miles on that engine). What you need to check is the side of the bottle and make sure it says it's OK for aluminum. For most coolant on the market, this is the case. There aren't too many engines out there without a good amount of aluminum anymore.
The bigger issue is making sure your coolant stays fresh. This means flushing every two years or so. Acids build up and can start to corrode things otherwise.
It doesn't matter if it's ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. Propylene glycol is less toxic and has a slightly lower heat transfer coefficient. Everyone says Dexcool sucks, even GM. So stay away from Dexcool.
If your coolant is aluminum safe and isn't too old, then don't worry about it.
MadCityRich
2002 4Runner Ltd
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