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front wheel bearing replacement
#1
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Location: concord california
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front wheel bearing replacement
Hey all, I'm having one Hell of a time finding a good write up on front wheel bearing R/R. I've found tons for the rear but not the front. I'm aware it needs to be presses in/out I've got that taken care of. Parts? Wheel bearing, snap ring, abs skid control, and front/rear seals? Does that sound about right? I'd just like to have a nice write up with pics to go along with it. I'm pretty sure of the process just want to do it right the first time. Any knowledge or links would be much appreciated. also any other replacement parts while its apart? I'm only at 95k by the way on a 00 4runner
#2
It's not a great write-up or anything, but I replaced mine, write-up here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...tml#post960734. I meant to do a nice write-up, but so much else went wrong that I completely forgot to take pictures of most of it.
The bearing is the only piece you actually need to replace. There are 2 dust seals (inside and outside) that might be good to replace, but they are so expensive that I opted to just pry the old ones off carefully and re-use them.
The only real trick that I ran into was getting everything back on in the right order. The FSM isn't super specific about the order, but here it is:
1. Bearings pressed into knuckle (using old outer bearing race)
2. C-ring snapped back in to hold the bearing in
3. Outer dust seal (grease the seal lip first)
4. Dust shield
5. Hub (using old inner bearing race)
6. ABS ring
7. Retainer
8. Inner dust seal (grease it)
I think some places say you have to replace the ABS ring and retainer, but you don't. They aren't tight on there anyway, so there isn't any risk of damaging the interference.
If you are comfortable with a press, it really isn't very hard.
The bearing is the only piece you actually need to replace. There are 2 dust seals (inside and outside) that might be good to replace, but they are so expensive that I opted to just pry the old ones off carefully and re-use them.
The only real trick that I ran into was getting everything back on in the right order. The FSM isn't super specific about the order, but here it is:
1. Bearings pressed into knuckle (using old outer bearing race)
2. C-ring snapped back in to hold the bearing in
3. Outer dust seal (grease the seal lip first)
4. Dust shield
5. Hub (using old inner bearing race)
6. ABS ring
7. Retainer
8. Inner dust seal (grease it)
I think some places say you have to replace the ABS ring and retainer, but you don't. They aren't tight on there anyway, so there isn't any risk of damaging the interference.
If you are comfortable with a press, it really isn't very hard.
#3
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Ok thank you for the link, sounds like you've got an intereating project I'm glad in California I'm rust free!! Well anyways, so basically to get the steering knuckles and hub off its pretty straight forward right? Pull off caliper, remove axle nut, tie rod end, disconnect upper and lower ball joints and then slide slide knuckle off? How exactly do I remove it from the ball joints?
#4
Ok thank you for the link, sounds like you've got an intereating project I'm glad in California I'm rust free!! Well anyways, so basically to get the steering knuckles and hub off its pretty straight forward right? Pull off caliper, remove axle nut, tie rod end, disconnect upper and lower ball joints and then slide slide knuckle off? How exactly do I remove it from the ball joints?
Last edited by youngtoyotatech; 11-14-2012 at 07:23 PM.
#5
alot of toyota ball joints are bolted to the control arms. Easy, unbolt. If not little tougher but still no biggy. take the nuts off then put em back on a couple threads. Then you hit the knuckle with a hammer where the ball joint goes thru the knuckle. You will have to hit pretty hard. The shock will release the taper of the ball joints. Do NOT use a pickle fork if reusing the joints.
You are pretty much correct with the rest of the knuckle removal. Follow the FSM and you will be fine. Just remember to get new cotter pins for the axle nuts and torque the axle nut properly.
Also, if you undo the 4 bolts, it is a good idea to replace them if they are rusted or old. They're only about a buck.
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