Found a Scooped Hood on CL, what next?
#1
Found a Scooped Hood on CL, what next?
So here's the deal. I have been looking around for a hood with a scoop for my 02 4runner for a while and I was finally able to find one. I just picked it up today for $100. The only bad thing is that it is in pretty rough shape. The guy I bought it from tried to rattle can it and apparently didn't know the proper way to go about doing it so he just ended up making a mess. There are runs, drips, and a number of other issues with the paint and he also decided to use a clearcoat on top of the crappy paint job, making it even worse...So I have a couple of questions...How should I remove the old clearcoat and paint? Is sanding the way to go or should I try a paint stripper?
Also, how should I paint it after I have all the old paint off? unfortunately I don't have the funds to get it done professionally so I will have to do it myself...Rattle can? Roll on? Hurculiner? What color should I go with? (I have a white 4Runner with black accents) Let me know what you guys think!
Here are some pics of the hood. It is a lot worse in person...
Here is a pic of my truck to use as a reference...
Also, how should I paint it after I have all the old paint off? unfortunately I don't have the funds to get it done professionally so I will have to do it myself...Rattle can? Roll on? Hurculiner? What color should I go with? (I have a white 4Runner with black accents) Let me know what you guys think!
Here are some pics of the hood. It is a lot worse in person...
Here is a pic of my truck to use as a reference...
#2
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First issue I notice is the Steelers plate on the front , other that it looks like it can be powder blasted to bare metal and then repainting is a a non issue. Next I would bondo the seams and fill it to get rid of the nasty looking beads down the sides then flat black the whole hood
Last edited by olharleyman; 10-11-2010 at 09:48 PM.
#3
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haha.. I was tipped off about that hood lastnight, it's the one from san antonio right? Called this mornin but he didnt wanna ship. Nice find though, can def be sanded down and takin care of the right way! Hell, i say just sand it down, little bondo, little buffing, then primer it and be done! I also agree about the steelers plate, seems like it's the only real big issue here.. haha
#4
Registered User
lmfao at the steelers thing
yep...have it sandblasted (or just be prepared for a lot of paint stripper, scraping paint off...sanding...stripping more paint...scrapping...sanding again..getting it perfect.)then pain it flat black...
honestly color is up to you....you could paint it hot pink for all i care .
or you could just ship it to me i'll cut the scoop out and weld it into my 2nd gen 4runner hood
yep...have it sandblasted (or just be prepared for a lot of paint stripper, scraping paint off...sanding...stripping more paint...scrapping...sanding again..getting it perfect.)then pain it flat black...
honestly color is up to you....you could paint it hot pink for all i care .
or you could just ship it to me i'll cut the scoop out and weld it into my 2nd gen 4runner hood
#5
Hate to piss on your parade, but have you sat in a 4Runner with a hoodscoop? My buddy's Taco has a scoop and its a PITA as it obstructs the view of the ground right in front of the truck. He wishes his truck never had a scoop.
#7
haha.. I was tipped off about that hood lastnight, it's the one from san antonio right? Called this mornin but he didnt wanna ship. Nice find though, can def be sanded down and takin care of the right way! Hell, i say just sand it down, little bondo, little buffing, then primer it and be done! I also agree about the steelers plate, seems like it's the only real big issue here.. haha
First issue I notice is the Steelers plate on the front , other that it looks like it can be powder blasted to bare metal and then repainting is a a non issue. Next I would bondo the seams and fill it to get rid of the nasty looking beads down the sides then flat black the whole hood
lmfao at the steelers thing
yep...have it sandblasted (or just be prepared for a lot of paint stripper, scraping paint off...sanding...stripping more paint...scrapping...sanding again..getting it perfect.)then pain it flat black...
honestly color is up to you....you could paint it hot pink for all i care .
or you could just ship it to me i'll cut the scoop out and weld it into my 2nd gen 4runner hood
yep...have it sandblasted (or just be prepared for a lot of paint stripper, scraping paint off...sanding...stripping more paint...scrapping...sanding again..getting it perfect.)then pain it flat black...
honestly color is up to you....you could paint it hot pink for all i care .
or you could just ship it to me i'll cut the scoop out and weld it into my 2nd gen 4runner hood
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#8
So after reading some of the advice from guys on here I was going to try to get the hood sandblasted so I can repaint it. Unfortunately all of the local places I have called are commercial only and would charge me like $250-$300 just for the hood!! Since I don't want to spend that kind of money, what are my other options for getting the paint off? Just paint stripper and a lot of sanding? Could I take a wire cup brush to it or would it damage the metal underneath? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
#9
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i wire-wheeled my whole skid plate before i rattle-canned it. it worked well. just make sure to use a 120v drill with a locking triger to save your hand from cramping
edit: as for damaging the metal, any type of abrasion will take a small layer off. with my wire-wheel, i didn't see much (if any) abrasion, let alone deformation
edit: as for damaging the metal, any type of abrasion will take a small layer off. with my wire-wheel, i didn't see much (if any) abrasion, let alone deformation
Last edited by irab88; 10-13-2010 at 10:04 AM.
#11
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cheap hood paint
If it's steel you can strip it with aircraft stripper, big mess, very toxic, it works, let it sit but not dry, scrape then wash (over a tarp). if it's composite i'd sand it. either way i prefer sanding. first use 80, then 100 or 120, then 320. you have to sand it even after you strip it, so why sand a little more and skip the stripper? All spray can primer/paint is lacquer. ok for under carriage parts junk for body parts. too small spray pattern, too much over spray to ever get it even. sounds weird but the store bought bed liner "paint" would come out even, durable and match your black accents. Bad deal to ever get off though, but it's cheap and easy and won't look blotchy and uneven. I used it on my xr400 frame, came out cool. I went over the bed liner stuff with 3M rocker panel spray (spray can). It dries semi-shiny and very hard. Hold it closer for less texture-farther for more. It's crazy tough. You sure you can't find someone to spray it for under 250? I'm an ex body man and 250 is normal but maaco and such should do it for way less. junk paint but it'll last a couple years. tell them you'll pay 50 bucks to just hang it and spray it, you'll sand it. They paint whole cars for 250. Problem is they don't sand them, they just scrub them with thinner and a scratch pad! it peels right off.
#12
J/K. Even if I was selling, I think someone already beat you to it...
i wire-wheeled my whole skid plate before i rattle-canned it. it worked well. just make sure to use a 120v drill with a locking triger to save your hand from cramping
edit: as for damaging the metal, any type of abrasion will take a small layer off. with my wire-wheel, i didn't see much (if any) abrasion, let alone deformation
edit: as for damaging the metal, any type of abrasion will take a small layer off. with my wire-wheel, i didn't see much (if any) abrasion, let alone deformation
If it's steel you can strip it with aircraft stripper, big mess, very toxic, it works, let it sit but not dry, scrape then wash (over a tarp). if it's composite i'd sand it. either way i prefer sanding. first use 80, then 100 or 120, then 320. you have to sand it even after you strip it, so why sand a little more and skip the stripper? All spray can primer/paint is lacquer. ok for under carriage parts junk for body parts. too small spray pattern, too much over spray to ever get it even. sounds weird but the store bought bed liner "paint" would come out even, durable and match your black accents. Bad deal to ever get off though, but it's cheap and easy and won't look blotchy and uneven. I used it on my xr400 frame, came out cool. I went over the bed liner stuff with 3M rocker panel spray (spray can). It dries semi-shiny and very hard. Hold it closer for less texture-farther for more. It's crazy tough. You sure you can't find someone to spray it for under 250? I'm an ex body man and 250 is normal but maaco and such should do it for way less. junk paint but it'll last a couple years. tell them you'll pay 50 bucks to just hang it and spray it, you'll sand it. They paint whole cars for 250. Problem is they don't sand them, they just scrub them with thinner and a scratch pad! it peels right off.
#13
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So based on what you and saveapit suggested I'm thinking that I will combine your ideas to get the best possible result. First I will use a wire-wheel to get most of the paint and clearcoat off because it is a metal hood so I don't have to worry about damaging it with the wire wheel. Then will follow up with different grades of sandpaper (80, 100, 120, 320) to get the remaining paint off and to make sure the surface is smooth and ready for new paint.
#14
I am also going to try to use some acetone on the actual paint once I get the clearcoat off. Hopefully that will help and make sanding a little easier...
#16
I live in SA and was trying to get that guy to sell me the scoop insert (I already have the hood in a lovely shade of primer) but he wouldn't! Glad somebody finally bought it
#17
As an added bonus the actual scoop insert is OEM.
I will probably need some new hardware to attach the scoop because the hardware on there now is pretty rusted. It also doesn't have the mesh insert that goes in the scoop...I have some left over mesh material from my Satoshi mod so I am thinking about cutting the back off the scoop to make it functional and using some of the left over mesh to cover the opening. I would just have to figure out how to attach the mesh...What do you guys think? Cut it open and make it functional or leave it closed?
#18
Yeah you have to get the insert from the stealership, and as far as making it "functional" the only function it will serve is letting water and debris into your engine compartment. Keep it closed.
#19
Bummer, I was hoping that I wouldn't have to resort to the stealership...I have read a couple of threads about the same topic and everyone seems to be divided. One side says exactly what you just said, an open scoop will just allow debris and water into the engine compartment. The other side says that it will allow hot air to escape and cool the engine compartment. I think it probably does both, but I don't know if it is worth it...
#20
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Bummer, I was hoping that I wouldn't have to resort to the stealership...I have read a couple of threads about the same topic and everyone seems to be divided. One side says exactly what you just said, an open scoop will just allow debris and water into the engine compartment. The other side says that it will allow hot air to escape and cool the engine compartment. I think it probably does both, but I don't know if it is worth it...