E-Locker won't engage...
01-28-2004, 02:08 PM
#22
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Originally posted by Jake94
Thats it, is that a pic of yours? do you have the skid plate?
Thats it, is that a pic of yours? do you have the skid plate?
http://www.marlincrawler.com/tacoma/...nner/rore.html
John
01-28-2004, 05:04 PM
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yea. You could do that but it probably wouldnt tell you much. Im curious. What is that motor turning? A worm gear? I would just pull the thing apart and clean it up. Test it while its off the vehicle. Test the motor with just a 12 v battery. See if it spins over nice. If it doesnt pull it apart and clean up the commutator.Pull the brushed out. Since that motor is external it could be all gummed up with rust and crap. Could be the worm (if it is a worm)gummed up with sticky grease and tar.
Can someone post a pic of the internals of the actuator? I did a search and came up empty.
Can someone post a pic of the internals of the actuator? I did a search and came up empty.
Last edited by zedex; 01-28-2004 at 05:05 PM.
01-28-2004, 05:53 PM
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Shoot - I wish I would have read this last post while I had the motor off - I would have taken a digi pic.
Anyway, I took off the motor / actuator. I was able to manually move the shift fork over to the unlocked state. So it's drivable again. While I had the motor out - I left it hooked to the wires. I had my wife flip the lock switch and the motor made it's usual wirring noise but the gear didn't move but maybe a 1 degree turn in either direction - on or off. I tried to manually turn the gear but it wouldn't move. So, I'm wodering if zedex isn't right and inside this motor something is fouled up or gummed up. It is covered in dirt and road crud - but I'm not sure how possible it is for that gunk to get inside the motor. It does seem like it's getting power and as I said it tries to move - but doesn't. Bad motor? gunked up motor? or wiring problem - that is the question.
John
Anyway, I took off the motor / actuator. I was able to manually move the shift fork over to the unlocked state. So it's drivable again. While I had the motor out - I left it hooked to the wires. I had my wife flip the lock switch and the motor made it's usual wirring noise but the gear didn't move but maybe a 1 degree turn in either direction - on or off. I tried to manually turn the gear but it wouldn't move. So, I'm wodering if zedex isn't right and inside this motor something is fouled up or gummed up. It is covered in dirt and road crud - but I'm not sure how possible it is for that gunk to get inside the motor. It does seem like it's getting power and as I said it tries to move - but doesn't. Bad motor? gunked up motor? or wiring problem - that is the question.
John
01-28-2004, 06:00 PM
#25
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The motor should be quite easy to pull apart and from what you have done already it definately sounds like the motor and not the locker itself. That is good news cause fixing the locker would be a serious PITA!!! Take a pic if you can because I would love to see what it looks like after you have it all out.
01-28-2004, 06:09 PM
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I'm not sure I want to take the motor apart. Sound like it could be a PITA.
Here's an excerpt form cartmans website and his experience taking the motor apart....
John
Here's an excerpt form cartmans website and his experience taking the motor apart....
So I decided to disassemble the mechanism. I removed the metal shield and then removed the round motor cover. This turned out to actually be the stator itself. When I pulled it off, the rotor was right there in plain sight. Sure enough, the brushes were shorting out. I turned the rotor slightly and put the cover back on. However the magnets in the cover pulled the rotor crooked when I put it back on. So I pulled the cover back off. This time the rotor came out with it (due to the magnets) and the brushes and springs shot out! Also, there are ball bearings on either end of the shaft and the lower one fell out.
Needless to say, it was a challenge to put it back together. I fashioned little metal clips that I could use to hold the brushes in place while I put the rotor back in. The lower ball bearing kept falling out, so I stuck it in the bottom receptacle for the shaft and everything seemed to fit. Once I got the rotor back in, I removed the clips holding the brushes in and put the housing back on. The housing has three screws, and there are protrusions by two of them that fit into holes in the casing. So, be sure to get in on right.
Thankfully, it still worked after all of this. So take my advice and don’t get the motor stuck so you don’t have to take it apart!
Needless to say, it was a challenge to put it back together. I fashioned little metal clips that I could use to hold the brushes in place while I put the rotor back in. The lower ball bearing kept falling out, so I stuck it in the bottom receptacle for the shaft and everything seemed to fit. Once I got the rotor back in, I removed the clips holding the brushes in and put the housing back on. The housing has three screws, and there are protrusions by two of them that fit into holes in the casing. So, be sure to get in on right.
Thankfully, it still worked after all of this. So take my advice and don’t get the motor stuck so you don’t have to take it apart!
01-28-2004, 07:23 PM
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Right where the brushes contact. That surface gets all gummed up from condensation, oil,rust. brush filings.Crap seeps in there. You can pull out the brushes and use a pencil eraser to clean that surface or use fine emery cloth/sandpaper. If you wondering about the wiring. Hold the 2 motor wires directly on your battery terminals. If it spins over its the wiring. If it doesnt its the motor gummed up or brushes. I would pull that electic motor apart and clean it up. Take pictures. I would like to see whats in there .
I have taken apart lots of electric motors. Some of them are real bitches trying to get the brushes back in. If you dont know electic motors you might take it to an electrical shop and have them do it.
I have taken apart lots of electric motors. Some of them are real bitches trying to get the brushes back in. If you dont know electic motors you might take it to an electrical shop and have them do it.
01-28-2004, 09:28 PM
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Hey Jake?? Is there supposed to be inline resistance? I should check my stock setup and see what there is. But that would mean me crawling under there in -10 weather. No thanks.I would have thought it would be a straight 12 volts(low current) feeding that motor but i have no idea.
From the description of how Mojos system is wired. It sounds like a straight 12volts.
From the description of how Mojos system is wired. It sounds like a straight 12volts.
01-29-2004, 02:59 AM
#29
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Originally posted by Jake94
Mojo, it's 3am and I just woke up with a scary thought! That little hose that comes out of the actuator, did they extend it up to a high point on the frame? Is it cracked, broken or is the connection loose? Man I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. You could be getting crap in the actuator through the hose. Also in that pic of the diff you posted, the one showing the connection for th indicator light, there is another square connection. Is it slill there? Or was it cut off when it was wired up?
Mojo, it's 3am and I just woke up with a scary thought! That little hose that comes out of the actuator, did they extend it up to a high point on the frame? Is it cracked, broken or is the connection loose? Man I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. You could be getting crap in the actuator through the hose. Also in that pic of the diff you posted, the one showing the connection for th indicator light, there is another square connection. Is it slill there? Or was it cut off when it was wired up?
To me it sounds simple even with the motor brushes and bearings in the way of reassembly. A trick for the bearing is to use bearing grease to stick it in place temporarily until it is back together. The brushes usually have a hole so you can stick a paperclip in there to hold them again during reassembly. If the comutator surface is nasty, use some electrical contact cleaner (available at Rat Shack) and use some very fine sandpaper like 400-600 grit to just break the surface (so you can see the copper shine again). You can use a lubricant like water or WD40 if you want to as well. Just be sure it is very clean when you put it back together. I have rebuilt tons of electric motors and have yet to find one that baffled me......maybe someday.
I also don't see how he will fix the problem without repairing the motor?
It clearly doesn't turn so either attempt to repair it or replace it.
01-29-2004, 06:00 AM
#30
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Originally posted by Jake94
Life or death? naw I usually leave those problems at work. It's just that I work nights and some times have a hard time sleeping.
Life or death? naw I usually leave those problems at work. It's just that I work nights and some times have a hard time sleeping.
01-29-2004, 07:00 AM
#31
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Originally posted by Jake94
Mojo, it's 3am and I just woke up with a scary thought! That little hose that comes out of the actuator, did they extend it up to a high point on the frame? Is it cracked, broken or is the connection loose? Man I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. You could be getting crap in the actuator through the hose. Also in that pic of the diff you posted, the one showing the connection for th indicator light, there is another square connection. Is it slill there? Or was it cut off when it was wired up?
Mojo, it's 3am and I just woke up with a scary thought! That little hose that comes out of the actuator, did they extend it up to a high point on the frame? Is it cracked, broken or is the connection loose? Man I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. You could be getting crap in the actuator through the hose. Also in that pic of the diff you posted, the one showing the connection for th indicator light, there is another square connection. Is it slill there? Or was it cut off when it was wired up?
01-29-2004, 02:01 PM
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I don't think the tube was ever there. I brought the locker to ORS to install (I git it from a junk yard) - and I don't ever remember a tube sticking out of it. 
I'm still wondering if this could be a wiring problem. The more I think about it - why would it have not locked on several attempts but when I fiddled with the ground wire I got it to lock and then it wouldn't unlock. Or is that just coincidence and the motor is most likey full of junk from not having a breather tube?
I did borrow a multimeter - so is it still worth investigating a possible electrical problem?
John
I'm still wondering if this could be a wiring problem. The more I think about it - why would it have not locked on several attempts but when I fiddled with the ground wire I got it to lock and then it wouldn't unlock. Or is that just coincidence and the motor is most likey full of junk from not having a breather tube?
I did borrow a multimeter - so is it still worth investigating a possible electrical problem?
John
01-29-2004, 03:28 PM
#40
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I'm reading carefully to this post as well, my locker will not lock/unlock on its own. I have the basic dual relay setup, with on/off/on switch. I can hear the motor spinning back and forth, and even see it when I pull the motor, but the locker does not want to engage/disengage on it's own. I have to pull the little cap on the side, take off the 2 10mm bolts, grab the shift rod with a vice grip, and push or pull.
One thing to note here. When installing the locker, we had to use brutal force with the BFH to get things lined up, which screwed up the hole where the motor's pinion gear goes into the housing to the point where I had to dremel it out to get it round again. I hope I didn't fudge something up there.
I might have to fab up a cable actuator.
One thing to note here. When installing the locker, we had to use brutal force with the BFH to get things lined up, which screwed up the hole where the motor's pinion gear goes into the housing to the point where I had to dremel it out to get it round again. I hope I didn't fudge something up there.
I might have to fab up a cable actuator.
