I realize this topic has been covered over and over again. I know this because I have been searching for hours all over the net. Before my eyes go cross and I end up wasting yet another night in front of the computer please help me! I have obtained a complete E-Locker axle and need to figure out the wiring. I see that a lot of people use and recommend the Dick Foster method outlined in the link below. http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Wri...ck_control.pdf Question #1 Is the switch that he is using a momentary switch? Question #2 I really want to use the factory RR Diff Lock switch that I also got from the donor truck. Instead of using the Double Pole Double Throw Lock Switch that he recommends what would happen if I used a Double Pole Double Throw relay in its place. The OEM switch would be hooked up to the normally open contacts so once I push the button “in” the normally open contacts would then send power to the motor. Then, after pushing the button in again (so it springs out) power would be sent through the normally closed contacts which would turn the gear until locker is disengaged simultaneously shutting itself off. Question #3 Assuming the above scenario works...once the motor has turned the gear enough degrees it would in essence kill itself via the insulated areas on the gear, correct? Question #4 If the splines do not engage right away is there a potential for heat build up in the motor causing damage? Please let me know of any shortcomings with this wiring method or any additional recommendations. Thank you in advance for any and all input!

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No offense to all who frequent here as you are all a valuable asset to the Tacoma community but does anyone know of a different place to ask this question? eg different yota sites or electronics specific forums?

yeah i don't see why u cant just use the switch that u picked up from the donor truck, as for it turning it off when it is all the way in yes it should turn off on its own, and if it doesn't first engage it will keep trying tell it does but it shouldn't build up that much heat or anything to burn it out.

I finally finished my ELocker install this weekend and the mentioned wiring method works great! Not only did I use the factory RR Diff Lock switch but I also utilized the factory RR Diff Lock light bulb on the dash. Granted it doesn't flash when it is attempting to engage/disengage but it does light up when engaged. If anyone wants info I plan on posting some and a modified Dick Foster diagram. In addition to this I will post up part numbers for the 18/7 wiring that I ordered from McMaster-Carr and the Radio Shack 12V DPDT Relay.

hey this is exactly what im looking for just picked up an elocker axle and switch and i want to wire it up but dont really know where to start wondering if you can help me out !

Hey sorry for the delayed response. Have you figured out a slick way to wire your E-Locker up so it looks factory yet? If not let me know I can help you.

12voltguy.com

I am under the impression that he wants to use the factory RR Diff Lock Switch. Before I did mine I contacted the 12voltguy and at that time he did not have a system that would allow for the use of the factory switch. Plus what would the fun of having someone else do it for you be especially if it turns out to be a good learning experience like it was for me. I am admittingly a bit of a snob when it comes to a clean install and most of the switches that are most commonly used for the E-Locker install are not as easy on the eyes as the OEM switch.

I too would like a diagram showing how to use a factory switch. I am in the process of acquiring what I need to put an ELocker in my 89 HILUX.

I will throw something together for you guys. It will be nice to pay back to a great site.

I hope this diagram works for those that want to use it. I apologize my electrical schematic standards might not be up to par professionally but I think it is pretty much self explanatory. I want to thank Dick Foster for his schematic. I also want to thank Karl Bellve and Ken Flesher for their writeup. Both of these links helped me a lot when I was trying to figure this out.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/
http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Wri...ck_control.pdf

Required Components Include:

SWITCH, DIFFERENTIAL
TOYOTA PART #84725-35010 Quantity 1

12VDC/10A DPDT Relay
Radio Shack Model: 275-218 | Catalog #: 275-218 Quantity 1
Follow Radio Shack link below for an unmolested picture of the relay.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2049722#

Flexible Multiconductor Cable Unshielded, 18/7 AWG, .34" OD, 600 VAC, Gray
McMaster-Carr Product #9936K21 Quantity 16ft
I only bought 12ft but if I were to do it again I would have bought more that way you have some left for the bulb.

Insulated Barrel Quick-Disconnect Terminal Std Female, 22-18 AWG, .187" W, .02" Thk Tab, 600V, packs of 10
McMaster-Carr Product #7060K18 Quantity 1

Easy-Install Convoluted Sleeving
McMaster-Carr Product #7840K12 Quantity 1

I also used a variety of heat-shrink tubing, solder flux and a lot of cable ties. All of these you can get at almost any auto parts store. I would highly recommend heat-shrink tubing after soldering to the factory wiring harness coming out of the differential.



For anyone wanting to know how a DPDT relay works Google is your friend.


E-Locker Wiring DPDT by xcmtb83, on Flickr