BigBallsMcFalls

I wouldn't say it is complicated. it is a standard motor with cast iron block
and G engine roots. it is overbuilt and a few have be bored and blown and tuned to produce 700 horsepower and still not blow up.

what makes it complicated, is the ECU is programmed to expect exacting values from all sensors, and will not run
properly without those sensor inputs within spec.

it just works best when you follow Toyota factory recommendations for every sensor, bolt, gasket, torque setting....they are known to be 'bulletproof' and only fail when :

1) heck, stuff sometimes fails
2) maintenance procedures not followed
3) sat for a long time and condensation/neglect rotted something
4) been through an overheat for some reason

hross14

Balls and everybody else on there is right--It is non-interference. Heck i just had the front half of my motor tore down and rotated the crank without the belt on.....

For bolts and such--use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone--do for a couple days....

ANYWAYS--Plain and simple--Its time to tear that sucker down to see whats happening...

AND--even at 165K miles my bottom end was fine when we tore it down.

AND last one--there is a very long article here about "Engine Design Concepts"--you should read it......because its these concepts and understandings that make for a great engine builder--not assembler.....Cheers

fishingorwishing

In the process of tearing it down now. Finally was able to get cam pulleys off last night and pulled exhaust. Only had to cut one bolt, last time I had to pull exhaust had to drill 5 bolts. Exhaust can be a real pain. This motor has 244,000 miles on it. I guess thats a good life span being how it was driven. I meant this is a lot more complicated and involved compared to the way motors were compared to carb motors, but I guess one you remove all the fuel injection stuff it is pretty similar to the old ones.

hross14

oh--should of suggested this before also--Get some Nut Crackers--the--thats metals nuts and not ones you eat .....

Just crack those suckers off if you got the room......I am really interested to see what is going on!!!

fishingorwishing

The other day I pulled the heads. No bolt in the cylinders. As soon as I pulled the heads off the crankshaft spun freely. That doesn't make since. Picked both heads up and looked at bottom side of valves all visually looked normal, they were all in there seats. Although I did see a mark on the number 2 piston that looked like it could be contact of some sort. Any ideas? Remember from my previous post that spinning the camshafts would intermittingly free up the crank. Mark on the top of one of the pistons(it would be were the one of the exhaust valves were at). As soon as the head was removed the crank freed up. Would one think this is a issue with the crank? I drained the oil no metal shavings. Talking with a friend of mine he had a ford escort that the crank was actually broke in half and the motor was still running but he heared a bad Knocking sound. I didn't hear any knocking before gas and spark was shut down. No codes were popped before gas and spark was shut down. I'm guessing though at his point that the no gas no spark was hut by crank case positioning sensor. If that is the case when I get this motor back together do I need to replace the CPS? or will it right its self. At this point I thinking a complete tear down is necassary. Has anyone heard of Oregon Engine Rebuilders? They claim to have a original owner lifetime warranty, and give an example price of $2395 for complete rebuild of the 5vz-fe.

hross14

Just keep tearing the engine apart. Did you have the timing belt on when you were trying to rotate the engine?

I wouldnt even bother with trying to figure out all the details--just take it to get rebuilt and slap her back in there--BOOM, BOBS YOUR UNCLE......

fishingorwishing

Ya I'm getting several different quotes on the full rebuild. Tried rotating with belt on, with belt off and when the heads were off. The only time it would rotate freely was when the heads were off. The valves all physically looked normal by visual inspection.

fishingorwishing

So I got my motor back from the machine shop today, will start install tomorrow. Once installed I still have to figure out why there was no gas or spark to begin with. Before rebuild I checked crankshaft position sensor, ohm rating was good. Checked camshaft position sensor ohm rating was good. Replaced EFI relay, fuel pump not turning on when ignition was on. Have not tested fuel pump functio(i.e. aligator clip to battery wire to fuel pump leads). Was a little curious about this on how to do it? Wire size, fuse size? But I will search the forum, first. Machine shop suggested the possibility of the MAF sensor being bad? I do have K&N intake. Would bad MAF sensor cause spark and gas to shut down? does anyone else have any other suggestions?

fishingorwishing

Spent most of the day trying to find new oil cooler lines, cleaned engine compartment the rest. During clean up, I found something peculiar. The connection to to the alternator had a bunch of white crap in it. It was on both the female and male end. No wonder I was having issues that were thought to be the alternator. Now the question is what is it? What caused it? and how do I clean it up/remedy it?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

maf controls sends a signal to the COR when the motor is trying to start and the cor kicks power to the fuel pump.

rworegon

If the white stuff is corrosion like you nomally see on a battery, I've used a baking soda/water solution and an old toothbrush or the battery terminal cleaner in a can to clean it up. If it has a greasy feel, it's probably di-electric grease that was applied to the connection to reduce corrosion and keep water out.....for this just wipe it off with a rag and reapply di-electric grease when you reinstall.

fishingorwishing

Thanks Vital that was the answer I was hoping for. Just wondering what the COR is? in my research I haven't come across this. Never mind just thought of it COR Circuit Opening Relay. Thanks rw will clean out and apply new di electric grease.

fishingorwishing

Got the motor back together. In the process I cleaned MAF, Throttle body, replaced fuel pump and EFI relay. I have spark and gas, but it still wont start. Sounds like it wants to but won't. Thought I had it flooded and pulled the plugs, dried them off let it sit and still won't start. Not sure where to go with this. Because before the rebuild I thought it was a COR problem or MAF problem shutting gas and spark down. But now I'm not sure what it is can some one please help.

hross14

when i reinstalled my motor after my build i did a huge mistake--i hooked up the Spark Plug wires according to the firing order based on what it said in a chiltons manual. Your issue sounds just like mine.

Try rechecking the Plug wires and make sure the plug wires are going to the correct cylinder (it is a wasted spark system so.....)

If you like i will look for your tonight and tell you what it is. or pull it up in the FSM.

hross14

Reference this Posting:

It was a lot cheaper than I was finding from some other online places, $68.00. Here is the link:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...dName=Duralast

I went out to start the truck this morning, as there was a lot of dew and fog. The truck fired right up, and no stumbling, no CEL, just smooth running.

Make sure you reference the chart in the third post at this link. This is the correct cylinder numbering. The little chart to the left of the diagram of the engine shows the wireset order. 2-5, 3-6, 1-4.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/f...-4-help-47016/

Good luck!

Kent

fishingorwishing

Checked wires several times, wish it was something that simple. Going to check timing, again.

hross14

Dang-do you have spark, fuel, air?

Dvold

Did you have the spark plugs still in the motor when you tried spinning the crankshaft with the timing belt off? If you have no timing belt on the motor, but still have the spark plugs in you will still feel compression on the cylinders where the valves are closed. once you turn the camshafts the valves will open releasing the compression (tension). It sounds like you have done a loft of work and tore down your motor for nothing. No heads on the motor = zero compression = free rotating crankshaft. :-(

hross14

Fishing--keep us posted on this issue. This is a Humdinger....