Clutch issues
#1
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Clutch issues
Hi
Two questions:
First: I had this sqeaking sounds whenever I depress the clutch pedal and thought it was the stupid clutch pedal bushing. But even though that is gone (and I know what I am doing next weekend) the sqeak comes from the where the cylinder (slave?) actually moves an arm protruding from the clutch (Bell?) housing. Some wd-40 seemed to quiet it down, but is this an problem that requires more work/repair?
Secondly: Maybe this is related to the first question, but how do I adjust the clutch. I feel like I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to shift w/o too much knotchy shifts. Is there a way to adjust it?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Carsten
Two questions:
First: I had this sqeaking sounds whenever I depress the clutch pedal and thought it was the stupid clutch pedal bushing. But even though that is gone (and I know what I am doing next weekend) the sqeak comes from the where the cylinder (slave?) actually moves an arm protruding from the clutch (Bell?) housing. Some wd-40 seemed to quiet it down, but is this an problem that requires more work/repair?
Secondly: Maybe this is related to the first question, but how do I adjust the clutch. I feel like I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to shift w/o too much knotchy shifts. Is there a way to adjust it?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Carsten
#2
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you might want to check the fluid in the resorvoir. it may just need to be bled.
The clutches are hydraulic and use fluid to dissengage the clutch. Hopefully its nothing major. If it only makes the noises when the engine is running then it may be youre throw out (sp) bearing.
The clutches are hydraulic and use fluid to dissengage the clutch. Hopefully its nothing major. If it only makes the noises when the engine is running then it may be youre throw out (sp) bearing.
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Thanks for the reply, but how does one bleed it?
The noise also happens w/o the engine running, it seems a purely mechanical thing where the arm comes out of the clutch/bell housing. Maybe a serious greasing can take care of it.
The noise also happens w/o the engine running, it seems a purely mechanical thing where the arm comes out of the clutch/bell housing. Maybe a serious greasing can take care of it.
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I had a similar situation with a squeek on my '96 4x4. Replaced the bushing - sqeek still there. Turns out it was the throw out bearing that was causing the issue.
How you ask?? After replacing the clutch/pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw out bearing it went away. The throw out bearing was essentially toast after I inspected it.
Incidently, the clutch was worn all the way down to the rivets and still had no feel of slipping. Unfortunately, there was heat cracks that developed in the flywheel that couldn't be "turned" out. New flywheel to the tune of $290.
Just thought I'd drop in my recent experience.
Andrew
How you ask?? After replacing the clutch/pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw out bearing it went away. The throw out bearing was essentially toast after I inspected it.
Incidently, the clutch was worn all the way down to the rivets and still had no feel of slipping. Unfortunately, there was heat cracks that developed in the flywheel that couldn't be "turned" out. New flywheel to the tune of $290.
Just thought I'd drop in my recent experience.
Andrew
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Thanks for the input guys
Watson: I hope it is not that bad, how many miles did you have on it when you have to change the clutch plates? Also when replacing the plastic bushing is it really necessary to take out the whole clutch assembly or is there an easier way (than Bobs writeup)
96runner:
If by crickets you mean chirping while dissengaged then no, it happens when the engine is off also and only just when you press and depress the pedal (in the beginning it seemed weather dependent. Seems like its the arm going into the bell housing. I will have a mechanic check it out soon
(btw it is probably the original clutch and I have 80K on it)
Carsten
Watson: I hope it is not that bad, how many miles did you have on it when you have to change the clutch plates? Also when replacing the plastic bushing is it really necessary to take out the whole clutch assembly or is there an easier way (than Bobs writeup)
96runner:
If by crickets you mean chirping while dissengaged then no, it happens when the engine is off also and only just when you press and depress the pedal (in the beginning it seemed weather dependent. Seems like its the arm going into the bell housing. I will have a mechanic check it out soon
(btw it is probably the original clutch and I have 80K on it)
Carsten
#7
Oh, I know what you mean. I had this problem too until I sprayed some all natural PAM cooking spray on the spring and the pivot arm. You may also want to take a look at Bob's write up in the tech section regarding the bushing replacement. That could be the problem too.
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The bushing does need replacement (if you mean the pedal/spring bushing) but it isn't the where the noise comes from. I will try some spray on the spring in the bell housing
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Just wondering but is the "cricket" sound like a sort of squeaky hum that happens when engaging the clutch? I get that... Clutch has 101k miles on it so I'm sure it's worn by this point.
#10
I am talking about the crickets that come out when the clutch is let out and the truck is at idle. Once the clutch is depressed, the cricket go away. It comes and goes. Mine is not doing it lately.
#11
[QUOTE=Roadtripr]Hi
Two questions:
First: I had this sqeaking sounds whenever I depress the clutch pedal and thought it was the stupid clutch pedal bushing. But even though that is gone (and I know what I am doing next weekend) the sqeak comes from the where the cylinder (slave?) actually moves an arm protruding from the clutch (Bell?) housing. Some wd-40 seemed to quiet it down, but is this an problem that requires more work/repair?
I had this same problem on my tacoma and it was driving me nuts. The noise was coming from the slave cylinder everytime I depressed the clutch pedal. Few weeks ago, I bought the slave cylinder rebuild kit and rebuilt the slave cylinder. Comes with a new piston (with seal), new spring, and new boot. Rebuilding the slave cylinder was really easy (took about 45 minutes start to finish), and it has a bleeder valve on to bleed. Bleed just like you do the brakes.
After about 4 weeks, I haven't had the squeak come back yet. For that alone, it was worth the 9 bucks for the rebuild kit.
Two questions:
First: I had this sqeaking sounds whenever I depress the clutch pedal and thought it was the stupid clutch pedal bushing. But even though that is gone (and I know what I am doing next weekend) the sqeak comes from the where the cylinder (slave?) actually moves an arm protruding from the clutch (Bell?) housing. Some wd-40 seemed to quiet it down, but is this an problem that requires more work/repair?
I had this same problem on my tacoma and it was driving me nuts. The noise was coming from the slave cylinder everytime I depressed the clutch pedal. Few weeks ago, I bought the slave cylinder rebuild kit and rebuilt the slave cylinder. Comes with a new piston (with seal), new spring, and new boot. Rebuilding the slave cylinder was really easy (took about 45 minutes start to finish), and it has a bleeder valve on to bleed. Bleed just like you do the brakes.
After about 4 weeks, I haven't had the squeak come back yet. For that alone, it was worth the 9 bucks for the rebuild kit.
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One place 'famous' for hard to locate clutch noise is the pivot point for the clutch fork on the bell housing. Another is the contact point between the clutch slave cylinder piston rod and the clutch fork. Both places can give you a creaking noise when using the clutch. Both areas are easy to lubricate, and solve some of those hard to find noises.
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Roadtripr,
Did you ever get this issue worked out? I seem to have the excat same problem. It squeeks when the clutch is pressed and depressed, whether the engine is one or not. Its starting to drive me nuts.
What it the best product to use to lubricate it? Would PAM, really work? WD40 is more of a solvent than anything else.
Thanks
Chris
Did you ever get this issue worked out? I seem to have the excat same problem. It squeeks when the clutch is pressed and depressed, whether the engine is one or not. Its starting to drive me nuts.
What it the best product to use to lubricate it? Would PAM, really work? WD40 is more of a solvent than anything else.
Thanks
Chris
#15
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i just live with the squeak, it comes and goes, i know its the pivot ball for the clutch fork, so when I'm ready for a clutch i will give it a good greasing, you guys are to picky of noises, you are driving trucks you know
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Originally Posted by Roadtripr
No fix yet WD40 wore off and I have my sqeak back. I have to try something else
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Originally Posted by CMD93
TechWrench,
What would be a good grease to use? Where should it be applied.
Thanks
What would be a good grease to use? Where should it be applied.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by WatsonMD
I had a similar situation with a squeek on my '96 4x4. Replaced the bushing - sqeek still there. Turns out it was the throw out bearing that was causing the issue.
How you ask?? After replacing the clutch/pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw out bearing it went away. The throw out bearing was essentially toast after I inspected it.
Incidently, the clutch was worn all the way down to the rivets and still had no feel of slipping. Unfortunately, there was heat cracks that developed in the flywheel that couldn't be "turned" out. New flywheel to the tune of $290.
Just thought I'd drop in my recent experience.
Andrew
How you ask?? After replacing the clutch/pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw out bearing it went away. The throw out bearing was essentially toast after I inspected it.
Incidently, the clutch was worn all the way down to the rivets and still had no feel of slipping. Unfortunately, there was heat cracks that developed in the flywheel that couldn't be "turned" out. New flywheel to the tune of $290.
Just thought I'd drop in my recent experience.
Andrew
TechWrench,
any idea how to get the grease on the throwout bearing? my fingers won't get past the ball stud area.