CEL only on highway
02-15-2009, 04:27 PM
#141
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Waking up an old topic. I have a CEL flashing again. I have replaced all three coils with brand new Toyota coil. I have replaced wires and plugs with Toyota parts. I am suspect of the crank pulley torque. The previous owner had the timing belt replaced and I can see tool marks on the crank pulley from whatever tool was used to hold the pulley. I seriously doubt is was torqued correctly using this method. I threw a timing light on it the other night and the timing is jumping around at idle. I don't know if you can even check the timing on these without jumping some connectors in the diagnostic plug. That's the way my old 22RE was. Will I fix the issue if I borrow the crank pulley tool from Toyota and torque the bolt properly? Or, do I have to replace the crank timing pulley at this point? I'm starting to get aggravated with this issue. HELP!
02-16-2009, 04:44 AM
#143
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02-17-2009, 04:47 PM
#144
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Well, I got my truck torn down tonight and my gear looks exactly like this one. Why didn't Toyota key the full length of the protruding shaft so that the gear wouldn't be as likely to end up like this? Anyway, I have finally found the source of my issues. I am relieved at this point. Now I just hope the dealership has this in stock and hopefully it's not more than $40-$50. When I got the balancer off and grabbed this gear and it moved, I couldn't believe it. I never would have found it if the belt hadn't been installed wrong. When I get it all back together I will post an update.
02-18-2009, 06:26 AM
#145
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Well, I got my truck torn down tonight and my gear looks exactly like this one. Why didn't Toyota key the full length of the protruding shaft so that the gear wouldn't be as likely to end up like this? Anyway, I have finally found the source of my issues. I am relieved at this point. Now I just hope the dealership has this in stock and hopefully it's not more than $40-$50. When I got the balancer off and grabbed this gear and it moved, I couldn't believe it. I never would have found it if the belt hadn't been installed wrong. When I get it all back together I will post an update.
What OBDII codes were you throwing? I'm guessing some P030x of some type.I guess the key was not intended to be used as a driver gear, just to locate the gear. The proper bolt torque is the only answer I can think of.
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-18-2009 at 06:34 AM.
02-18-2009, 07:36 AM
#146
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Just reread this whole thread and thought this link was worth reposting:
http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/012007_04.html
http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/012007_04.html
02-18-2009, 07:46 AM
#147
Good find on that link mt_goat 
...couple of things that are always asked here about the T-belt:
"The timing belt on the 5VZFE engine drives the water pump and the belt's replacement interval is 90,000 miles. But as I explained in a previous Foreign Service column, it's not uncommon for the pump to leak long before the engine is due for a new belt"
"Before you button up this job, be sure the harmonic balancer bolt threads are clean and in good condition. Treat the bolt with a good thread-locking sealer such as blue Loctite or its equivalent"
"If the crank bolt loosens up, it allows the harmonic balancer and crank sprocket to shake back and forth. First, this unwanted movement usually causes an rpm-sensitive noise and vibration in the front of the engine. "
"For instance, the engine often idles okay but misfires during acceleration and the ECM sets one or more misfire codes. Eventually, the engine may misfire all the time and become hard to start. Before you dive into a diagnosis, always get the vehicle history and watch for a wobbling harmonic balancer"
"A driver may ignore the noise, vibration and misfiring symptoms until it's way too late. By that point, the loose parts may allow the woodruff key to wear or wallow out the keyways in the crankshaft and/or crank sprocket! "
...couple of things that are always asked here about the T-belt:"The timing belt on the 5VZFE engine drives the water pump and the belt's replacement interval is 90,000 miles. But as I explained in a previous Foreign Service column, it's not uncommon for the pump to leak long before the engine is due for a new belt"
"Before you button up this job, be sure the harmonic balancer bolt threads are clean and in good condition. Treat the bolt with a good thread-locking sealer such as blue Loctite or its equivalent"
"If the crank bolt loosens up, it allows the harmonic balancer and crank sprocket to shake back and forth. First, this unwanted movement usually causes an rpm-sensitive noise and vibration in the front of the engine. "
"For instance, the engine often idles okay but misfires during acceleration and the ECM sets one or more misfire codes. Eventually, the engine may misfire all the time and become hard to start. Before you dive into a diagnosis, always get the vehicle history and watch for a wobbling harmonic balancer"
"A driver may ignore the noise, vibration and misfiring symptoms until it's way too late. By that point, the loose parts may allow the woodruff key to wear or wallow out the keyways in the crankshaft and/or crank sprocket! "
02-18-2009, 08:16 AM
#148
Contributing Member
:
02-18-2009, 08:26 AM
#149
Contributing Member
EB's special head bolt torquing proceedure:
Quoted from EB:
>>>*Morning!
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
*Quite a discussion. We always replace the head bolts on the 3VZE, mostly because of early on we had two cases of breaking them. This spoils a day quickly...
*Ever notice it is nearly always either the last one or the next to last one?...*LOL**
I personally won't make the studs, I do not own the equipment to roll the threads during the forming process. Sure, I could set up and cut the threads, this is much weaker than a formed and rolled out piece. *More work, too and I'm lazy.......All it takes is one little stress riser and the stud can break.
Usually breakage with bolts is due to the threads creating resistance, they stop turning. The same can happen with a stud if the nut end threads are not completely free and lubed. Once they stop slipping as they are torqued, you are now twisting the shaft of the piece. I have had a couple of cases of folks breaking brand new bolts, this is the cause of that.
If the shaft of the fastner is actually twisted rather than tightened into the block, it is not creating clamping force at all, even though the torque wrench may read accurate load.
Yep, it can break. So before we even think of going to maximum torque, we clean the threads in the block with a chaser, (NOT a tap)..Then we oil the threads and spin the bolt all the way in and out with our fingers. This assures they are clean and lubed.
Then we pull them to 50%, all of them. ... back off 1/4 turn and repeat, note each time it will turn a tad more before 50% is reached. This is because the threads are bedding in. We do this 5 times, then we go to 75%, then to 100%, all done. We do this with ALL new fastners...it assures a more even clamping force, inconsistant clamping force is the number 2 cause of early head gasket failure..(heat is number one)
It takes some time, sure, but it takes less time than pulling the head back off...Hope this helps.....*EB
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-18-2009 at 08:39 AM.
02-21-2009, 09:50 AM
#150
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Well, I got my crank gear,water pump,woodruff key and belt replaced. I was really worried at first. It didn't want to start. I did not reset the EFI. I think that was the problem. It now cranks at a touch of the starter. Runs perfectly. I am really happy now that I have this fixed after almost 2 years of chasing this problem. Thanks to the forum and mainly to 98runner210 for posting the pic of his gear. I wouldn't have checked it on my own.
02-21-2009, 11:18 AM
#151
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no prob, I was getting ready to trade mine in or drive it off a cliff. I was chasing mine for 2 years and it just kept getting worse. I was really worried/pissed when Toyota shrugged their shoulders.
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