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Can you disable drive by wire?

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Old 01-23-2009, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ETRNL
the easiest way i have found to disable vsc is to throw it low range and lock up the center diff. so maybe you can use a set of switches to fool the computer into thinking you are in low range with the center diff locked. you would still have atrac but no vsc which means you can actually sling mud.


You need only lock the center diff to disable VSC, switching to 4lo is not needed. 4Hi center locked VSC is disabled.
Old 01-23-2009, 06:55 PM
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really!? i havent tried locking the center in 4hi..
Old 01-24-2009, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ETRNL
really!? i havent tried locking the center in 4hi..
Yep, you can do it. And it shuts down the VSC. But don't do this on dry pavement, you'll bind up real fast.

I would do the Andymod, but I don't want to lose ABS.

And in response to the questions about the TB, I can rev from idle to red line, and watch the cable move the outside part the whole way. If the case is that it just is a limp home feature, you could technically add length to the cable to make the throttle open 100%. But I think that the new ECTS-i that was implemented in 2001 just got rid of the manual kickdown cable and cruise control cable, limiting "analog" movement to just the throttle. I'm no expert either, but I'm pretty sure this is how the TB works for my 5VZ at least
Old 01-24-2009, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 02_Limited
I can rev from idle to red line, and watch the cable move the outside part the whole way.
The cable does move part on out side whole way but not the fly on in side. You are red line cause DBW is electronically applying throttle to othere side you cant see. Do me a favor I cant do it on mine since not running yet, take cable off and press gas and see what happens also look inside TB you'll see but I am really interested in knowing what happens with cable off.
Old 01-24-2009, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by millwrightbrian
The cable does move part on out side whole way but not the fly on in side. You are red line cause DBW is electronically applying throttle to othere side you cant see. Do me a favor I cant do it on mine since not running yet, take cable off and press gas and see what happens also look inside TB you'll see but I am really interested in knowing what happens with cable off.

If I use my finger to move the throttle in the engine bay (with the cable attached but not doing the 'pulling'), I can still get 100% of maximum revs
Old 01-24-2009, 03:30 PM
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but that's in park with no load, right? what about driving down the road? as an experiment, disconnect all the electrical connectors going to your throttle body and see how it drives (if it's separate, you can leave teh TPS connector attached)
Old 01-24-2009, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 02_Limited
If I use my finger to move the throttle in the engine bay (with the cable attached but not doing the 'pulling'), I can still get 100% of maximum revs
Wow you must have different 2002 4runner Tb then I got. Maybe full throttle is with fly only 1/4 way open. Or maybe we just have different setup, regardless I give up.... have fun disabling your DBW.. he he
Old 01-26-2009, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 02_Limited
If I use my finger to move the throttle in the engine bay (with the cable attached but not doing the 'pulling'), I can still get 100% of maximum revs
That's because the lever you're pulling on at the throttle body is the input to the accelerator pedal position sensor (located on the TB). With the truck running, the signal from that sensor is an input to the throttle control motor (via the ecu, of course). Based on the current position of the throttle plate (which the ecu gets from the output of the throttle position sensor), and the throttle demand (supplied by the accelerator pedal position sensor), the ecu determines the required position for the throttle plate, and controls the throttle control motor accordingly.

Pulling that lever is no different than pressing the accelerator pedal.

What others are asking you to do is to remove the intake hose from the TB, and with the truck "off", pull that lever on the TB (same as your doing now), and see how much your throttle plate moves.
Old 01-26-2009, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by GSGALLANT
What others are asking you to do is to remove the intake hose from the TB, and with the truck "off", pull that lever on the TB (same as your doing now), and see how much your throttle plate moves.
02_Limited, I'd like you to do this too and report back.

I just cleaned my TB this past weekend on my '02 Sport. With the vehicle off and the intake hose removed, I manually turned the lever on the TB and watched the plate on the inside move. With the lever turned to the max position, the plate inside only opened 1/4 of the way. If I reach in the TB, I can manually open the plate more.

Last edited by Rock Slide; 01-26-2009 at 05:42 AM.
Old 01-26-2009, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rock Slide
02_Limited, I'd like you to do this too and report back.

I just cleaned my TB this past weekend on my '02 Sport. With the vehicle off and the intake hose removed, I manually turned the lever on the TB and watched the plate on the inside move. With the lever turned to the max position, the plate inside only opened 1/4 of the way. If I reach in the TB, I can manually open the plate more.
Those are the correct results!
Old 01-26-2009, 12:56 PM
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Okay I see what you are talking about now. But I'm curious about the TB lever still. Sure, you can see the fact that it only opens 1/4 of the way when the engine is "off", but what about while the engine's on? If I am making throttle inputs directly at the TB, with the engine "on", I still get the maximum revs like previously stated. That must mean that the butterfly valve is opening to its most free flowing position, right? I know by increasing the length of the throttle cable, you could technically get the fly valve open all the way. The gas pedal isn't being depressed, the only movement that's occurring is my finger moving the TB, so there is no input from the actual pedal itself. Does the accelerator pedal position sensor get "tricked" in this situation, thinking that there's a foot on the pedal applying some throttle?

Has anyone tried this procedure with the engine on? Maybe the partially opening butterfly valve (while the engine is OFF) is to keep small things from getting past it while off
Old 01-26-2009, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 02_Limited
Does the accelerator pedal position sensor get "tricked" in this situation, thinking that there's a foot on the pedal applying some throttle?
Exactly, when you step on the pedal it pulls teh cable the same as what you are doing, so changing the cable length will do nothing . . . the accelerator pedal position sensor and thottle position sensor is inside the throttle body
Old 01-26-2009, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by corax
Exactly, when you step on the pedal it pulls teh cable the same as what you are doing, so changing the cable length will do nothing . . . the accelerator pedal position sensor and thottle position sensor is inside the throttle body
But if you were to remove the "bump stop" for the throttle (on the outside of the TB), and increased the cable length, then you'd probably get some results, right?
Old 01-26-2009, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 02_Limited
Maybe the partially opening butterfly valve (while the engine is OFF) is to keep small things from getting past it while off
The partially opening throttle plate when the engine is off is the same as you can get for an opening when either the accelerator pedal position sensor, the throttle position sensor, or the throttle control motor fail. It's a fail safe to allow some driveability if the electronics fail. It's designed that way to allow you to drive the vehicle (slowly) to your nearest Toyota Dealership so that they can take your hard earned money and install a brand new TB on your truck. At least you don't have to pay for a tow truck though.
Old 02-14-2009, 09:20 AM
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Put a 5spd in it and call it good
Old 02-14-2009, 09:38 AM
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http://www.4x4wire.com/index.php?opt...tech&Itemid=53

I don't know if this will help you but it might be a good for some info.
I am wanting to do the same swap with mine. I am thinking about picking up another 3vz-e though and putting it on the stand. Tear it down and see what I can do as far as going .20 over and maybe a bit stronger on the cam. I don't know how cost effective or what kind of options are available for me at this point in trying to build a 3.0 into a 3.not as slow. In the meantime I am thinking of beating the hell out of this 3.slow till I have no choice...lol....I am going to try a T3 turbocharger mounted in front of the engine where the mechanical fan used to be and only run about 2.5 to 3lbs of boost. Wait and see how long it takes to POP. If it works out well I might just build the other to stock and turbo it instead.


THOUGHTS?

Last edited by DIRT CLOD; 02-14-2009 at 10:10 AM.
Old 02-14-2009, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DIRT CLOD
Put a 5spd in it and call it good
That's not going to disable a DBW throttle system.
Old 02-14-2009, 10:10 AM
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lol...
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