anything else I can do while heads are off?
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anything else I can do while heads are off?
well I think a head gasket on my 92 runner 3.0 went on me...and yes the 'recall' was done back in 98. anyway i'm wondering if there is anything else i could do while the heads are off to maybe boost performance a little. I have searched and havne't found anything so figured instead of searching for hours I would jsut ask.
anyway is it worth it to get the heads shaved, or anything like that that most engines respond to.....or are there any cams out there, or higer ratio rockers, or anything??
anyway is it worth it to get the heads shaved, or anything like that that most engines respond to.....or are there any cams out there, or higer ratio rockers, or anything??
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Check here:
http://www.doaracingengines.com/
I think I read here that those engines respond fairly well to port & polish. But I don't think you'll get race car performance. It's still a SOHC
http://www.doaracingengines.com/
I think I read here that those engines respond fairly well to port & polish. But I don't think you'll get race car performance. It's still a SOHC
#3
How deep is your wallet? Personally, I'd consider a good 3 angle valve job, then some port pocket work. Back cutting the valves. Unshrouding the valves and combustion chamber. In that order. Each costs money, and gives you progressively less bang for the buck, typically.
Heads are off, oilpan can be easily dropped. Do you want to install better pistons at this point to boost compression?
Heads are off, oilpan can be easily dropped. Do you want to install better pistons at this point to boost compression?
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well my wallet isn't that deep!! I was basiclay thinking of getting the heads ported and cleaned up and maybe a set of cams. I found DOA last night after posting this.....and they do ehads and have cams, but the cams require all new valves which isn't a bad idea but then we are into even more money. I was thinking of jsut having the heads P&P'd localy if I can get it done cheaper than $400, but DOA problaby knows what works best with these conpared to anyone local to me.
so anyone think the cams are worth the money? how about their heads?
to be honest I was planning on selling this truck. i like it but if i'm going to spend 4 hours a day driving I want soemthing with a little power. then the headgasket went. I was jsut going to fix it and then sell the truck, but if I have to stick all this money in it anyway why not put a little more in it, get some more power, and maybe not mind driving it as much. but I don't wnat to stick a few grand in it either. that make sence!!
so anyone think the cams are worth the money? how about their heads?
to be honest I was planning on selling this truck. i like it but if i'm going to spend 4 hours a day driving I want soemthing with a little power. then the headgasket went. I was jsut going to fix it and then sell the truck, but if I have to stick all this money in it anyway why not put a little more in it, get some more power, and maybe not mind driving it as much. but I don't wnat to stick a few grand in it either. that make sence!!
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Originally posted by GoudyMan
port and polish!
port and polish!
#7
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Just having all the crap cleaned off the valves will feel like a new truck.
Lap the valves just to make sure they seal perfectly for highest compression.
Lap the valves just to make sure they seal perfectly for highest compression.
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#8
On something that old, I'd just do a std. valve job - 3 angle cut as foxtrapper suggested. You'd be surprised how many machine shops screw this up.
If you shave the heads, you'll raise compression - you'll need to run high octane if you weren' t already.
There's an old school of thought that says if you do a valve job, you'll then be putting more pressure on older rings. Some techs believe it's best to do the whole engine. I've done valve jobs on old domestic cars and never ran into this. Just throwing it out.
If you shave the heads, you'll raise compression - you'll need to run high octane if you weren' t already.
There's an old school of thought that says if you do a valve job, you'll then be putting more pressure on older rings. Some techs believe it's best to do the whole engine. I've done valve jobs on old domestic cars and never ran into this. Just throwing it out.
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Originally posted by Mike Murrell
On something that old, I'd just do a std. valve job - 3 angle cut as foxtrapper suggested. You'd be surprised how many machine shops screw this up.
If you shave the heads, you'll raise compression - you'll need to run high octane if you weren' t already.
There's an old school of thought that says if you do a valve job, you'll then be putting more pressure on older rings. Some techs believe it's best to do the whole engine. I've done valve jobs on old domestic cars and never ran into this. Just throwing it out.
On something that old, I'd just do a std. valve job - 3 angle cut as foxtrapper suggested. You'd be surprised how many machine shops screw this up.
If you shave the heads, you'll raise compression - you'll need to run high octane if you weren' t already.
There's an old school of thought that says if you do a valve job, you'll then be putting more pressure on older rings. Some techs believe it's best to do the whole engine. I've done valve jobs on old domestic cars and never ran into this. Just throwing it out.
I see what your saying though. I figured shaving them would make sure they were true(since it did get hot) and bump compression a tad for a few ponies....and running premium was expected if I do some mods. I only wnat to do soemthing that is going to be worth it though and net me some gains.
#10
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Originally posted by Donny O.
are you suggesting my truck is old?? it only has just over 200K on it!!!
I see what your saying though. I figured shaving them would make sure they were true(since it did get hot) and bump compression a tad for a few ponies....and running premium was expected if I do some mods. I only wnat to do soemthing that is going to be worth it though and net me some gains.
are you suggesting my truck is old?? it only has just over 200K on it!!!
I see what your saying though. I figured shaving them would make sure they were true(since it did get hot) and bump compression a tad for a few ponies....and running premium was expected if I do some mods. I only wnat to do soemthing that is going to be worth it though and net me some gains.
You might also consider using studs instead to help prevent this in the future.
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well nevrmind all of it now. just called the shop that is doing it and they werent supposed to work on it til today and i told them to call me befoe it went back together cuz I wanted to do some stuff to it like clean up the heads and some head work maybe. well they got to it early and never called me. it is all back together already. they did surface the heads cuz it needed it but they said the valves and everything still looked great and were seating and looked really clean so they jsut cleaned it up a little and put it all back together. that is all they thought I wanted to do, but I told them to call me. why is it no one will ever listen to a ˟˟˟˟˟˟ thing I say!!!
well at least the truck is back together!!
well at least the truck is back together!!
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Woops.. Missed your post. Good luck!
May I very very very highly suggest you have the exhaust valves replaced (and intake if you can) the exhaust valves are large and they have been know to take poorly to valve grinds trust me!! I have been fighting mine for 2 years now and I am just now having a third head done with all new valves! Other **Must do's** would be the "u" shaped heater hose on the coolant manifoild on the back of the motor (almost impossiable to get to togather) The knock sensor wire, these are very fragile and you need to remove the intake if it fails it is also a cheap part.. I suggested this to someone once before and the parts dweeb could not find it.. if I remember correctly, he had to pull it down to change it after the fact. Those are 2 very eaisly overlooked parts that are really "must do's" I would also do the common water pump and timing belt while you are in there.. Also, use a good gasket tack on the plenum gasket.. They like to break and have very tiny vaccume leaks.
May I very very very highly suggest you have the exhaust valves replaced (and intake if you can) the exhaust valves are large and they have been know to take poorly to valve grinds trust me!! I have been fighting mine for 2 years now and I am just now having a third head done with all new valves! Other **Must do's** would be the "u" shaped heater hose on the coolant manifoild on the back of the motor (almost impossiable to get to togather) The knock sensor wire, these are very fragile and you need to remove the intake if it fails it is also a cheap part.. I suggested this to someone once before and the parts dweeb could not find it.. if I remember correctly, he had to pull it down to change it after the fact. Those are 2 very eaisly overlooked parts that are really "must do's" I would also do the common water pump and timing belt while you are in there.. Also, use a good gasket tack on the plenum gasket.. They like to break and have very tiny vaccume leaks.
Last edited by Firefyter-Emt; 01-22-2004 at 04:33 PM.
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Thanks for the tips but as you said maybe to late. I really do trust the shop I go to and i grew up with the main mechanic there so know him well and they have always treated me good. jsut wish they had called me and let me get the other things done.
as for the water pump and timing belt....those was jsut changed about 3-4000 miles ago!! water pump went out which is what might have led to the head gaskets going as it got hot on me and that is how I found the leaky water pump!!
as for the water pump and timing belt....those was jsut changed about 3-4000 miles ago!! water pump went out which is what might have led to the head gaskets going as it got hot on me and that is how I found the leaky water pump!!
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