Any tips before i install my lift this weekend?

osker fenix · 03-25-2008, 10:59 PM

Im installing my SAW coilovers and OME in back along with new shocks any tips or things to watch out for before i start?

I thought i read somewhere when installing the SAW's you need to manipulate the brake line a little or move it closer to the caliper, anyone have any insight on that?

thanks

hiloracerboy84 · 03-26-2008, 01:28 AM

dont know about the saw deal, but just spray all the bolts with pb blaster or similar starting now, and it should be trouble free come this weekend. may want to have a breaker bar handy, and things will be 10X quicker w/ an impact.

j-man · 03-26-2008, 01:30 AM

on all my runners - i didnt have to mess with anything. Just pop off the wheel, unscrew the sway bar nut, unscrew the 3 bolts on top of the shock holder, unscrew and take out the nut/bolt at the bottom holding it all in, and presto - its out. if you crank up your saws before installation, they can sometimes be a pain to get in, so i use a bottle jack and position it on top between the a-arm and teh fender well and crank it down enough to slip the saw in there. good luck - each side takes me about 6 min total now.

The rear on the other hand - the shock is the biggest pain out of everything to remove/install. IT requires u to contort your hand/arm enough to get at the nut on top of the shock to unscrew it. THe coil is easy - just remove your sway bar nut, let the axle dangle, and wiggle it and should pop right out. installation is just as easy.

BornChaos · 03-26-2008, 01:37 AM

A few tips in removing the rear shocks: Leave the lower shock mount connected as serves as an assistant in holding the shock in place. Use a type of wrench that will grab the shock body. If you intend to discard of the shocks (as in not sell them or save them) a Chain Wrench works well. Chain Wrenches might be somewhat expensive. I would recommend using a Belt Wrench, which can be had at sears for like 10 bucks. The belt wrench won't damage the shock body. Use the wrench to grab the shock body while you wrench the nut from the top. It's a bitch. Oh yeah, remove your spare for more room to work back there. Use lots of PB Blaster prior to doing this so it will make your life easier. You may also be able to tighten the wrench around the shock body, then let it turn until the wrench hits something that will hold the wrench in place while you use both hands to turn your ratchet to losen the nut up at the top.

For the front: Install the SAW coilovers uncranked, then with the vehicle OFF the ground, use the spanner wrench to dial in the height you want. I hear this can get kind of tough, so take your time. I have never used or seen the spanner wrench that comes with the kit in person, but if its at all possible, try to find something that will fit over the wrench and effectively extend it, giving you more leverage.

Those are my ideas

Elton · 03-26-2008, 01:57 AM

here's a good write up to remove the front struts
http://www.4rnr.net/suspension.html

osker fenix · 03-26-2008, 06:43 PM

sweet thanks my fellow yotatechers and californians. Thanks for telling me about the swaybar bolts i didnt even think of that. Im gonna be installing this at my friends dealership so we'll have impacts and a rack, so hopefully that'll make our lives easier...right now im just really fearing those rear shocks.

Anyone know about those brakelines?

osker fenix · 03-26-2008, 10:00 PM

anyone know off hand what size socket i need for the top bolt of the rear shock?

Dare44 · 03-26-2008, 10:19 PM

i just did it, most everything was 17mm, 19mm, and 14mm, i think it was 19 but dont quote me on that. an extra set of hands it the best tool to have, took me a while to get mine on, the front didnt just slide on mine tho took alot of forcing and beating to get the front coils in, the jack between the fender and the upper a-arm is wat i ended up doing and that worked the best. took about a half hour a side after i figured out how to do it, and then the rear took like 40mins but that was mostly spent trying to get my track bars back in place,which i shouldnt have taken off anyway.

osker fenix · 03-26-2008, 10:53 PM

dude nice another californian! what about your panhard bracket did you install one of those? was it pretty straight forward?

75w90mantraN · 07-09-2008, 04:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BornChaos

A few tips in removing the rear shocks: Leave the lower shock mount connected as serves as an assistant in holding the shock in place. Use a type of wrench that will grab the shock body. If you intend to discard of the shocks (as in not sell them or save them) a Chain Wrench works well. Chain Wrenches might be somewhat expensive. I would recommend using a Belt Wrench, which can be had at sears for like 10 bucks. The belt wrench won't damage the shock body. Use the wrench to grab the shock body while you wrench the nut from the top. It's a bitch. Oh yeah, remove your spare for more room to work back there. Use lots of PB Blaster prior to doing this so it will make your life easier. You may also be able to tighten the wrench around the shock body, then let it turn until the wrench hits something that will hold the wrench in place while you use both hands to turn your ratchet to losen the nut up at the top.

Exactly what I did and what a relief it was to finally get that taken care of. This is why Yotatech is such a great site/forum. Tons of posts that help out in explaining the details one may not ever find in just reading the vague step-by-step instructions in a manual.

TC4RNR · 07-09-2008, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by osker fenix

dude nice another californian! what about your panhard bracket did you install one of those? was it pretty straight forward?

take the spare tire out first. that will give you some extra space.

you can do it all by yourself, specially while the rear coils and shocks are out. if it's kinda stiff to when putting back the panhard bar, use a racheting tie down to pull it in little by little.

Matthew0404 · 07-09-2008, 09:42 AM

Old thread.

03-25-2008, 10:59 PM	#1 (permalink)
osker fenix Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Luis Obispo, CA Posts: 175	Any tips before i install my lift this weekend? Im installing my SAW coilovers and OME in back along with new shocks any tips or things to watch out for before i start? I thought i read somewhere when installing the SAW's you need to manipulate the brake line a little or move it closer to the caliper, anyone have any insight on that? thanks __________________ -Brandon 01 4runner SR5 4x4 3.4 V6 110k miles- 2" 4crawler BL \| SAW's \| OME 890's \| OME N86C Shocks \| 285 Nitto TG's

03-26-2008, 01:28 AM	#2 (permalink)
hiloracerboy84 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 349	dont know about the saw deal, but just spray all the bolts with pb blaster or similar starting now, and it should be trouble free come this weekend. may want to have a breaker bar handy, and things will be 10X quicker w/ an impact. __________________ 1997 4WD SR5 V6 AT gray wire, Deckplate, ISR, electric fan, 881 w/topout, 891, 2" 4crawler, 16x8 EA's, 285's, murano/sti w/ 50w of HIDeeeee

03-26-2008, 01:30 AM	#3 (permalink)
j-man Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Santa Monica, Ca Posts: 171	on all my runners - i didnt have to mess with anything. Just pop off the wheel, unscrew the sway bar nut, unscrew the 3 bolts on top of the shock holder, unscrew and take out the nut/bolt at the bottom holding it all in, and presto - its out. if you crank up your saws before installation, they can sometimes be a pain to get in, so i use a bottle jack and position it on top between the a-arm and teh fender well and crank it down enough to slip the saw in there. good luck - each side takes me about 6 min total now. The rear on the other hand - the shock is the biggest pain out of everything to remove/install. IT requires u to contort your hand/arm enough to get at the nut on top of the shock to unscrew it. THe coil is easy - just remove your sway bar nut, let the axle dangle, and wiggle it and should pop right out. installation is just as easy. __________________ 2000 4Runner v6 sr5 4x4 5spd: Turbo'ed 99 4Runner v6 Sr5 4x4 5spd: Saw's / OME combo TrueTrac rear 98 4Runner V6 Sr5 4x4 5spd E-locker: Saws / OME combo... EEZI AWN Roof Tent 1.4m 97 4Runner V6 Sr5 4x4 Auto: Saws / OME combo TrueTrac rear 2003 Landcruiser 285 BFG At's and outback roofrack My Baja Trailer Build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=179520 http://community.webshots.com/user/bajaroadtrain

03-26-2008, 01:37 AM	#4 (permalink)
BornChaos Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: La Jolla (UTC), California Posts: 116	A few tips in removing the rear shocks: Leave the lower shock mount connected as serves as an assistant in holding the shock in place. Use a type of wrench that will grab the shock body. If you intend to discard of the shocks (as in not sell them or save them) a Chain Wrench works well. Chain Wrenches might be somewhat expensive. I would recommend using a Belt Wrench, which can be had at sears for like 10 bucks. The belt wrench won't damage the shock body. Use the wrench to grab the shock body while you wrench the nut from the top. It's a bitch. Oh yeah, remove your spare for more room to work back there. Use lots of PB Blaster prior to doing this so it will make your life easier. You may also be able to tighten the wrench around the shock body, then let it turn until the wrench hits something that will hold the wrench in place while you use both hands to turn your ratchet to losen the nut up at the top. For the front: Install the SAW coilovers uncranked, then with the vehicle OFF the ground, use the spanner wrench to dial in the height you want. I hear this can get kind of tough, so take your time. I have never used or seen the spanner wrench that comes with the kit in person, but if its at all possible, try to find something that will fit over the wrench and effectively extend it, giving you more leverage. Those are my ideas __________________ -Ned 1997 4Runner SR5 3.4L 4x4 \| OME/TRD Lift \| Kenwood KDCX789, polk db650 speakers \| 265/75/16 Pro Comp MT \| American Racing Baja 16x8 \| Yakima Racks \| S.S. diff drops \| WabFab Discos \| Polyeurethane bushings all over the place

03-26-2008, 01:57 AM	#5 (permalink)
Elton Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Toledo,Oregon Posts: 9,093	here's a good write up to remove the front struts http://www.4rnr.net/suspension.html __________________ My Truck 98 4runner SR5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 E-Locker Mods Mom 07 Tundra d-cab limited 5.7L 4x4 auto mom 92 pickup SR5 X-cab 3.0L 5spd 4x4 Papa 89 Pickup SR5 X-cab 4x4 3.0L 5spd/98 4runner SR5 4x4 auto 3.4L R.I.P 91 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0L 5spd Totaled 5/13/06 My Wreck

03-26-2008, 06:43 PM	#6 (permalink)
osker fenix Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Luis Obispo, CA Posts: 175	sweet thanks my fellow yotatechers and californians. Thanks for telling me about the swaybar bolts i didnt even think of that. Im gonna be installing this at my friends dealership so we'll have impacts and a rack, so hopefully that'll make our lives easier...right now im just really fearing those rear shocks. Anyone know about those brakelines? __________________ -Brandon 01 4runner SR5 4x4 3.4 V6 110k miles- 2" 4crawler BL \| SAW's \| OME 890's \| OME N86C Shocks \| 285 Nitto TG's

03-26-2008, 10:00 PM	#7 (permalink)
osker fenix Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Luis Obispo, CA Posts: 175	anyone know off hand what size socket i need for the top bolt of the rear shock? __________________ -Brandon 01 4runner SR5 4x4 3.4 V6 110k miles- 2" 4crawler BL \| SAW's \| OME 890's \| OME N86C Shocks \| 285 Nitto TG's

03-26-2008, 10:19 PM	#8 (permalink)
Dare44 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: grass valley, ca Posts: 901	i just did it, most everything was 17mm, 19mm, and 14mm, i think it was 19 but dont quote me on that. an extra set of hands it the best tool to have, took me a while to get mine on, the front didnt just slide on mine tho took alot of forcing and beating to get the front coils in, the jack between the fender and the upper a-arm is wat i ended up doing and that worked the best. took about a half hour a side after i figured out how to do it, and then the rear took like 40mins but that was mostly spent trying to get my track bars back in place,which i shouldnt have taken off anyway. __________________ 1997 Toyota 4x4 SR5 4runner 3.4 auto Toytec 3 inch coil spring Lift Trail Gear Rock Sliders Maxxis Bighorn M/T's Amp Custom Rims Cobra CB, 5ft Firestik KC Daylighters http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3008195 Near Future List Bumpers Lockers 1st Gen Roll Bar Winning the Lottery?

03-26-2008, 10:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
osker fenix Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Luis Obispo, CA Posts: 175	dude nice another californian! what about your panhard bracket did you install one of those? was it pretty straight forward? __________________ -Brandon 01 4runner SR5 4x4 3.4 V6 110k miles- 2" 4crawler BL \| SAW's \| OME 890's \| OME N86C Shocks \| 285 Nitto TG's

07-09-2008, 09:42 AM	#12 (permalink)
Matthew0404 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Central PA Posts: 179	Old thread. __________________ 99 4Runner 4x4 3.4 5 speed E-Locker SAW 2.0 Coilovers LC coils and shocks 1" 4 Crawler Body Lift 1" Diff drop SS adjustable trac bar Addco front/rear sway bars 285/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

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