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5VZFE 3.4L V6 Rebuild

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Old 01-13-2010, 04:25 PM   #1
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5VZFE 3.4L V6 Rebuild

So, now that I got the engine with the blown head gasket out of our 4Runner (and the new one in - running great!!!), it's time to start planning the rebuild. I just called the machine shop and was quoted a grand total of $1600 for the whole enchilada which includes:

Head work:
Full valve job
Reset valve lash
Deck head
Hot Dip Clean

Block work:
Cylinder Bore
Install Rod Bushings
Grind Crank
Hot Dip Clean
Freeze Plugs

New Parts:
ITM Rebuild kit to include
All gaskets (incl MLS HG)
Pistons/Rings
Main Bearings
Large Rod Bearings
Thrust Bearings
Timing Belt Kit (incl water pump, idlers, etc.)

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but that's basically it...

So here's my question... With nearly 200,000 miles on the engine, how much of this stuff is needed? The engine was running strong prior to the HG failure. It wasn't driven hardly at all after the HG failure - the oil and antifreeze was still separate - no milkshake. No overheating. No strange noises or any other sign of problems prior to the HG failure. Bottom line is that I'm thinking about just repairing the head gasket and skipping most of the machine work. I'd still get all the head work done and its due for the timing belt stuff...

What would you do?

Thanks guys!

Cheers,

Jeremy
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:41 PM   #2
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Does it come with a warranty? If it had more like 100K on it, I would just go for the head work and TB/WP, but w/ 200K, it would sure suck if the lower end went out right after you just rebuilt the top. If you're planning on selling it, I'm sure you could get your $$ back if you do the full rebuild. People might not want to pay much for a 1/2 rebuilt 200K engine.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:08 PM   #3
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Does it come with a warranty?
No warranty since I'd be doing the work myself (except the machine work)...

I've found a few places with rebuilt 5VZs in the $1800-$2000 range, but they typically only come with a 12 month or 12,000 mile warranty.

Jaspers are like $4300 and come with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty.

Thanks for the feedback Brian!
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:13 PM   #4
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Here's another option:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-U...Q5fAccessories

Less than the Jasper for a turbo diesel! But only a 30 day warranty...

Plus all the other hassle of switching to diesel...
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:46 PM   #5
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That would be bad ass if you did a D swap. Jaspers are sick too. $1600 sounds like kind of a lot for the machine shop, maybe get some more quotes?
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Old 01-14-2010, 07:48 AM   #6
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That would be bad ass if you did a D swap. Jaspers are sick too. $1600 sounds like kind of a lot for the machine shop, maybe get some more quotes?
That's sounding a little expensive to me as well. I just had a 350 Chevy V8 completely rebuilt from the ground up for about $2,200. That includes the shop doing everything. It ended up being a 350 HP 355 and would smoke a 35" mud tire into dust. Keep checking around.
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:22 AM   #7
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Chevy is entirely different animal than a toyota build.

Honestly--I would get a hold of Colt Cams in Canada and get your cams reground (Weasy2k Profile). Then get some custom Valves and springs from Manely and slap those guys into the head. No porting needed as these heads breath well. Replace the "D" TB gasket with an open one....

Then moving onto the bottom end--get a quality rebuild set and go with Cometic head gaskets. Balance the hell out of everything connected to the rotating assembly--Crank, Front balancer/pulley, flywheel, pressure plate...etc... Through some ceramic Doug Thorely Headers on there (full length would be best if emissions are not a problem) and plumb it all the way out with mandrel 2.25"/2.5" exhaust. Call up Under Dog Racing and order a piggy back to retune that little buddy.

You will be happy--that is the road i went and the motor is much more responsive and peppy than prior to. My last step is the UDR piggy back and then chassis dyno..... you wont get the bang for your buck like a Chevy--but hey, its Toyota--
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:33 AM   #8
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Cometic Gaskets

I am going to take back the statement that you should use Cometic gaskets. After my rebuild I HAVE an oil leak and cant find it----checked everything and now i think it looks like it is coming from the heads--down the heads and along the oil pan.-----Not absolutely sure so do your own research.......
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:18 PM   #9
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I am going to take back the statement that you should use Cometic gaskets. After my rebuild I HAVE an oil leak and cant find it----checked everything and now i think it looks like it is coming from the heads--down the heads and along the oil pan.-----Not absolutely sure so do your own research.......
Sorry to hear bout your oil leak... =( Son of a beesting!

Thanks for the feedback on the Cometic gasket... The machine shop said they use ITM gasket kits and they could 'upgrade' to Felpro. I'm leaning towards an OEM kit tho'.
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:14 AM   #10
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Actually, i spent two hours under the truck with it running........it looked like the HG was leaking but it wasnt--looks like the front main seal or something on the front of the motor is the problem.

Man did that make me happy--i would also go with Victor Reinz or Felpro or OEM--but make sure the machine shop can get the block and heads under 50 RA
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:35 AM   #11
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Actually, i spent two hours under the truck with it running........it looked like the HG was leaking but it wasnt--looks like the front main seal or something on the front of the motor is the problem.

Man did that make me happy--i would also go with Victor Reinz or Felpro or OEM--but make sure the machine shop can get the block and heads under 50 RA
I thought it was 20-30 RA or less for the OEM MLS gaskets. I'd ask if they can do 20 RA.

Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2010 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:44 AM   #12
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Call up Jim Putney.
http://www.putneyscustommachine.com/...20Machine.html

Local guy who really knows his stuff.

My buddy have his 22re's in two of his trucks and his rock crawler on 42's gets up and goes..
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:43 PM   #13
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Ok how about 0 RA

20-30 is good for me
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