woodsyman

I am having problems starting my 3.4L 97 4runner when it is cold out. I will have to turn the key 5-10 times to get it running. The starter sounds fine, battery has good charge, and still has the problem when in neutral. After the car starts and warms up it runs like a champ, any ideas?

At first I thought it was the neutral start switch but it has the same problem when in neutral, also could not locate it on the transmission. Thought the starter was going but it cranks strong and no clicking of the contacts. I have heard of a cold start injector but I think these are only on the 95 model 4runners. I was reading in my Chilton manual about testing the coil packs and checking if the spark plugs spark well but I changed the plugs about 20,000 miles ago and it runs fine when started up. The coil packs have a hot and cold reading cold:0.67-1.05 Hot: 0.85-1.23 has anyone done this before?

woodsyman

Ok, today I did some more digging. I tested all of the coil packs and they are all working perfectly reading 1.2 ohms. Cleaned all connections on coil packs. Cleaned the mass airflow sensor and the carbon build up on the intake. Cleaned the air filter and got deep down to the started and cleaned the contacts. After all this the car still has a bit of trouble starting up. Its not to cold here so it has been starting up first try these days but it takes a while with the ignition turned to get it started. I was hoping to go to the snow in two weeks, any ideas? Do you think I should replace the starter contacts? Or the ignition switch?

woodsyman

I did some more work the other day and installed all new factory dual prong spark plugs. I did not realize that I put in single prong plugs in the truck 20,000 miles ago. I think this might have been the main problem. A mechanic at Toyota said the 3.4L engines are very picky in which plugs they like. I also picked up a Optima red top battery and so far my problem has gone away. I will see if it is totally gone this weekend when I am in Tahoe in the snow.

I really wanted a nice crisp start on my 4runner but despite the plugs and battery replacement it still take some turning of the key. Every once in a while the truck will start but almost sputter a bit before it turns over. Any ideas?

woodsyman

Well, I just figured out that I have not solved my starting problem. Tonight around 12 I tried to start my 4runner and it took about 6 long turns of the key to get her to fire up. I am getting really frustrated and dont know what to do any more. I guess it is time to check the fuel system? Any ideas?

toyodually

starter solonoid maybe?

mick cassidy

Check the cold start injector its on the intake manifold and its job is to shoot a little extra fuel during warm up

cjlqtr

I have similar problems on my 95 22RE. I believe it is related to the cold start injector. Engine pops on initial turnover then won't start. I have to retry several times until it starts. Only happens when its cold and truck has been sitting for a while.

woodsyman

I have ruled out the solenoid because it cranks over really strong and there is no clicking sound. I thought about the cold start injector but could not locate it on my 97 3.4L runner, I thought they were only on older models? Its located on the intake manifold? Can you describe when it looks like? I have been trying to find a picture on the 3.4L.

Alos, I tried to start it this morning because it is colder than usual and it would not start after two tries. So I decided to pump the gas pedal 4 times and hold it down when I tried to start it and it fired right up. So now I am suspecting a problem with the fuel system. Any ideas on that note?

woodsyman

I am now in the snow so the temps are cold around 28 f. The car started up first try this morning I gave it 3 pumps of the gas pedal held it down turned the key and it was running. I then went to the stor to grab a few thing, left the car for 30 min came back tried to turn on the car and it would not start. I poped the hood and the engine was still really warm. I tried pumping the gas butstill nothing. I then left the car to do a few more arrons and on the way back picked up some starter fluid /either. I sprayed it into the intake and the car finally started up. I am suspecting a fuel problem. Could it have to do with the PCV valve? Or maybe the fuel pump?

brian2sun

There is no cold start injector on the 3.4s. I would test the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. A new fuel filter definitely wouldn't hurt either. Try cleaning the PCV valve, it's easy. If fuel pressure is good, could be your ignitor is dying.

woodsyman

Well after a day of awesome pow pow in Tahoe I came back to the runner and it would not start. Had to have it towed and taken to a shop. Cost $225 to fix it but it was only the EFE (Early Fuel Evaporation) relay. They also said something about a corroded wiring harness but that is not on the paperwork. The problem is now solved and she starts right up.

I dont think I would have ever guesses it was that relay. Anyone know how they found out? Diagnostics port under the hood?

badattitude

Thanks for the follow up. I'll certainly keep this in mind.

racabon

Hey, So I know it has been 10 years. But I have a 1997 4runner with ~407,000 miles. When I try to start it when it is cold it takes a second to start up. Maybe 5 seconds of cranking to start. Once it is warm it starts instantly. This thread really helped with getting a idea, and I am gonna document my progress as I try too fix this issue. Because I assume as time goes on more 4runners are gonna have more issues. I am gonna try to be the cross reference for the issue. My fuel pump failed a while ago, I replaced it, and I still have the same issue, so I know that it is not the fuel pump. I am going to go buy the "EFE relay" the guy above mentions.

2ToyGuy

Chances are, it seems to me, the anti flow back valve in the fuel trump is getting old, and allowing the fuel pressure to bleed off over time. This is normal, and accounted for in the FSM.
The FSM specifies 21 PSI after 5 min. of sitting idle, not running, presuming the fuel pressure was normal while the engine was running. After it sits for a few days, it will bleed down, and take a few seconds to repressurize the system when you go to start it up.
You can "help" it along, though. I take and turn the key to START, but do NOT push in the clutch or use the clutch cancel switch. You can easily hear the fuel pump run, and after a few seconds, it's tone will change. This tells you the system is pressurized. I push in the clutch, or press the Clutch Cancel switch, and VROOOM, it fires right up, no trouble.

Just a though that might help you out. OR, you can let it crank for 5 seconds The duty cycle of the starter is 15 seconds on, 5 min off, I believe, although I might well be wrong on the off time. It might just be 1 min. I'm not certain. I use the 15-1 cycle on my pickup, if it's been sitting a while. It's a 22R, with the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine opposite the distributor, and can take a cycle or two to get the fuel up from the tank to refill the carb bowl after sitting a while.

Have fun!
Pat☺

Malcolm99

The 5vz-Fe doesn't pump fuel unless the engine is turning over using crank and cam signal. Try a new Denso MAF, they can be cleaned but sometimes they need to be replaced, changed mine and it changed the way the truck starts, it was reading incorrect temp and flow, and my fuel trims where off a bit because of that, starts like a champ. The 99'+ MAF seems to be more problematic or hard to diagnose.