CBDenver

Dr. , Loosehead, and everyone,

I've read over the posts for the removal of the resonators for a 3.4L 1997 and have one question.

Regarding the resonator that has (2) vacumn lines on it, can both of these be "Tee'd" into the same line ? Since one goes to FPR and one goes to PS(?), is it OK to put them both into the same line? If so, does it matter which one I tap them both into?

Does this make sense?

Thanks!

CBDenver

Oops. By Dr. above, I meant Dr. Z

Thanks.

Dr. Zhivago

Hi CB,

Go here: https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...ntake/dr_z.htm

The article was updated yesterday with new pictures and a better way to reattach the FPR Hose and in case you have one, the PSP hose as well. Read the setup for the FPR hose on Page 1, look at the picture, then go to Page 2 to see how to do it for your truck with the extra hose.

Hope this helps.
Dr. Z

CBDenver

Dr. Z,

Thanks for the info. I read both the tech write-ups you suggested. I could not get the pictures to work (i.e. click on them to get bigger versions) though? So I could not "see" it as clearly as I had hoped.

If I understood everything correctly, I can tap the PSP and FPR hoses into the same hose in the front of the plenum using (2) T's ?

Is this correct?

Thanks for the clarifications!

Chris

loosehead

Phil and Chris-


Good questions. First, Chris, yes I think you understand, you can run the PS and the FPR together, as they were basically together before. If you can't find a 4-way Tee, you can always 'piggy-back' two 3-way Tees, but you may need some extra hose.

Phil, the reasoning behind the changes to the FPR plumbing was two-fold, clean things up a little so it looks more OEM and to see if it the FPR would see a true manifold pressure signal would help things. So far, Dr Z is happier with the new setup and I believe he will be more than willing to chime in and tell us what he has found.

Now a Q for you Chris, are you in the process of doing this mod? Have you made any profound discoveries on your own as to how this might work best on a 96-98 model? Just curious what you are planning on doing?

CBDenver

Jayson,

Thanks for the information. I tried taping off all (3) "boxes" so far and drove it a few days. It is much louder yet quicker, and I think I'll go ahead and do the mod in some capacity.

At the moment, I have the 2nd resonator (the small one) taped closed only. The large one (w/ the (2) hoses attached to it) and the "U" tube on the bottom are open again.

The noise is greatly reduced, yet the power is almost what it was when I had all (3) closed off? I'm debating about splitting the difference and closing 2 out of 3 boxes off to get some increase, yet still providing some level of noise reduction.

Maybe I should try leaving the smaller box open and closing off the biggest one (with the U tube one closed)?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Chris

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Hi Chris, are you running any pop up killer software?
That may make the thumbnails I have for the tech write-ups not work for you.

They are a JAVA script to open up a 640x480 pic.

CBDenver

Hey,

No, I'm not running any pop-up killer stuff. I get the window to open up, then it's blank and says "Failed to connect to remote server" or something like that.

In the threads, the jpg links popped up fine, it's just the .html links that don't work for me? Prob. some firewall issue or something.

Chris

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm, that is weird.
Yes, probably something from your work that has it configured then.
Corey

loosehead

You know, Chris, I hadn't thought about only eliminating 2 of the three boxes. That does seem like a very good compromise. I would say try it and see how it works. Then, of course, report back to us as to what you find out and how you like it.

Dr. Zhivago

Hey Everyone,

Loosehead already answered why I changed it. I aplogize for the confusion. The setup as it currenty stands is by far the best for the reasons stated. It is cleaner in appearance and the FPR gets a truer indication of engine load.

Again, my aplogies for making you cut your hoses. *throws self down nearest flight of stairs* I was a little quick in announcing the mod, I should have lived with it for a while first and worked out all the issues. But I was so excited about it and once I mentioned it, well you guys saw what happened.

I am going out for the evening, all of you have a Happy Halloween and I will see you all tomorrow.

Peace!
Dr. Z

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Dr. Z, if you end up circling the pics, just grab them from the article and then email them to me, and I will upload them to the YotaTech server here.

wayne's runner

I'm trying something similar to CBDenver, I taped off the openings to the smaller resonator box and the lower "U" tube. I left the big silencer box open and tubes attached as stock. After 3 days of driving, this setup does not sound any louder and I have not felt any significant difference in power. I'm going to leave it this way for at least a week to see if there is any effect on my gas milage. I did the deck plate mod three months ago.

CBDenver

Correction on my setup.

I have the small resonator (in the back) open, and the large one in front and the U tube closed. I tried it both ways and forgot which way I had it configured when I wrote that post earlier.

It does have less power than the full mod, but is a **bit** quieter.

Hope this helps. I'm still trying to decide whether to close all three off (I prob. will).

Chris

loosehead

Chris-

You've got mail...

Jayson

4skiner

I need help on this one. What is it (part # or #s in pic one on page II) that im taking out in order to do this mod on a 96-98 SR5? The specific parts arent identified.

Also, I dont understand why i have to replace my 96-98 hoses with 99-01 hoses in order to do the mod?

The deckplate mod came off without a hitch thanks to your guyz great directions. I juist this one to be as effortless..i guess. Thanks..

loosehead

-

Thanks for asking questions. Maybe there is a closet genius lurking out there who will chime in with the perfect solution to all of these questions and give us yet another direction to go? Hope this helps.

Dr. Zhivago

Hi Guys,

I will get to all of this stuff, but not today. It's my GF's birthday. I thought the pictures and instructions were pretty clear. It helps if you print out the article and accompanying pics and look at your truck while trying to understand what is going on.

I guess the fact that it seems hard to tell what I did differently than the stock setup is a tribute to the OEM appearance of the new setup.

If you look at the top of your intake plenum, on the front, you should see a small 1/4" hose coming out of it. The nipple it is attached to on the plenum is what I used to attach the new Tee fitting.

Maybe Jayson can take some pics of his truck and post them in the meantime. How 'bout it Jayson? You up for that?

I will probably not get to editing my pics until at least Sunday. Also, if there are any corrections that need be made to the instructions to help things be more understandable, that will not happen until at least then either.

Have a good weekend, guys.

Dr. Z

loosehead

A few things, I just realized I did something wrong in my reply to 4skiner and my responses to his questions weren't separated from the quoted part. Oops...

O.K., what follows is part of an email I sent to CBDenver (Chris) who wrote me with some questions about the vacuum lines:

I went back to the second page of the write-up (96-98 models) and looked at the picture of Micker's truck to have another look at the difference betweeen mine and yours. What I would do is this: for the line coming from the PSP, I would Tee that into the vacuum canister line that connects to the MAF. I would then get another Tee and tie the FPR line to the smaller line coming off the front of the intake plenum, as DR Z described when he changed his set up. This way you could eliminate all three resonators, if you wish. Does this make sense? I am having trouble putting it all in to words, myself. I'll see if I can manipulate some of the photos, but I am not promising anything...

Bare with me while I talk myself through this one more time: You will need to get (2) Tees of different size. I found plastic barbed Tees at the hardware store, but they should also have them at a good autoparts store, along with the vacuum line. So, for the PSP, it doesn't look like to me that you would need to get any new line, just the Tee. You should be able to pull the PSP line off of the resonator and then see where it would lay in respect to the line coming from the MAF. Determine the easiest/best place to locate it in that line and that is where you would cut the MAF line, and add the first Tee, to connect to the PSP.

For the FPR line, follow the directions in the write up to tie it in to the intake plenum. You will need the smaller size Tee and some smaller line. This is the better way to do it, since the FPR will now see an air pressure "signal" from the intake plenum.

Let me know if this all makes sense and I will try and post a message to the forum.
------

That being said, I have not had a chance to try and edit any of the photos, in fact, I must admit that I cannot figure out how to add colored circles, etc. to an existing picture on my phot editor. I only have the microsoft progam?!?

Anyway, maybe this will help with some of the other questions.

CBDenver

J,

Thanks for the help. Got your email and also reread it here on the post and it makes sense now. I was going around and around in the engine compartment trying to figure out the best way!

Chris