3rd Gen 5-speed VERY hard to shift???
#1
3rd Gen 5-speed VERY hard to shift???
Within the last 2 days its become nearly impossible to shift into first when stopped. For some reason, every other gear has become VERY hard to get into gear. And I mean HARD. About every other shift to 4th ,wether it be an up or down shift wants to grind. If the truck is not running all gears seem smooth and their notchy selves. Any quick ideas? I'm also sometimes getting what I'd call a bump or kick back when going into those tough gears. Thanks for input
#4
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Can you put it in every gear easily without the engine running?
.....and with the engine running?
The 2 main areas are either the clutch master cyl, slave cyl or pressure plate.
Check the fluid levels first before replacing parts.
.....and with the engine running?
The 2 main areas are either the clutch master cyl, slave cyl or pressure plate.
Check the fluid levels first before replacing parts.
#5
81000 miles on the original clutch
No noticed fluid drop or leaks and its topped off. I just checked all the fluids about a week ago and its still in the same spot.
Any ideas on how much to have a dealer replace the clutch and pressure plate?
Any ideas on how much to have a dealer replace the clutch and pressure plate?
#6
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Before you do anything, lay under the truck while someone pushes in the clutch, and make sure it's moving the fork fully. If yes, sounds like a bad clutch. Check some local shops for prices first.
#7
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Originally Posted by 86toyota
Before you do anything, lay under the truck while someone pushes in the clutch, and make sure it's moving the fork fully. If yes, sounds like a bad clutch. Check some local shops for prices first.
It is hard to tell what full movement looks like (ie if the master clutch cyl is bad).
Slave cyl will usually leak if it is bad and a worn pressure plate needs to have the tranny removed to inspect.
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#8
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Just had the same problem last week on my 3rd gen. Number 1 wife tried backing out of the garage on Tuesday and I saw the backup lights turn on and off several times. I wound up taking her to work. That evening, I checked out the clutch master cylinder which was low, but not terribly low, so I filled it and climbed under the 4Runner to check the slave cylinder movement while she pressed the clutch. Little movement. So we bled the slave cylinder. That fixed the problem. I still don't know how an air bubble worked its way into the line, but bleeding the line fixed it in about 15 minutes.
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#10
Originally Posted by f16fxr4real
Any ideas on how much to have a dealer replace the clutch and pressure plate?
But, narrow down the problem yourself like the other guys have mentioned first.
#11
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The dealer that quoted mine in Easley, SC said $990. but he said he could lower it too if he dropped the parts prices a little. I kind of thought that was steep, but then again I'll do the work myself now that I'm back home and have my tools.
#12
this internet is great
as you guys are rattling off troubleshooting ideas I'm running out and having my mother-in-law push the clutch in and out. I don't think she likes you much anymore......Anyways, The bracket doesnt have any cracks I can see, I can see the slave cylinder but where should I see the fork at? I did go mudding this weekend and was stuck in some water and mud up to the bottom of the doors. I'm wondering if that did anything.
#13
Originally Posted by f16fxr4real
I did go mudding this weekend and was stuck in some water and mud up to the bottom of the doors. I'm wondering if that did anything.
OK, where the slave mounts to the side of the tranny bellhousing...there is a fork that comes out of the trans, towards the drivers side. The end of the slave meets the "cup" of this fork. You aren't going to see much, but you should definitely check it for problems.
The whole "water to my doors" thing worries me a bit...
#14
ok, ok so I should have mentioned mudding earlier
HOWEVER, the shifting was progressively getting worse and just got REAL bad in the last 2 days. I just got done doing a bleed and low and behold......it worked. the first cycle looked like someone had tried to use the bleed port as a zerk fitting. Greasy fluid and a grainy look to it with a LOT of air. After about 6 or 7 cycles the clutch feels like its been replaced. Thanks for everyones input. I'm probably going to take it to get power flushed tomorrow.
#16
I don't know however,
I have a receipt showing a had a "clutch bleed and service" done last summer. I wonder if they just topped it off and its never had one done. Original clutch and 81000 miles and who knows how many more to go. It's working AWESOME
#17
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Keep the info coming guys, I am having an identical problem with first, fourth, and reverse and don't know a thing about transmissions. I guess I'll have to break down and buy the service manual so I can get some pictures to walk me through this.
#18
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I wonder....
If the clutch fluid was low and I happened to use my clutch on a steep incline, would that let air into my line????
I'd bet so. And that's the only way I can think of for air to get into a perfectly good hydraulic system.
If the clutch fluid was low and I happened to use my clutch on a steep incline, would that let air into my line????
I'd bet so. And that's the only way I can think of for air to get into a perfectly good hydraulic system.
#19
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Originally Posted by gwhayduke
I wonder....
If the clutch fluid was low and I happened to use my clutch on a steep incline, would that let air into my line????
I'd bet so. And that's the only way I can think of for air to get into a perfectly good hydraulic system.
If the clutch fluid was low and I happened to use my clutch on a steep incline, would that let air into my line????
I'd bet so. And that's the only way I can think of for air to get into a perfectly good hydraulic system.
Best way to prevent it is to make sure the fluid level is kept high in the master cyl and bleed as needed.
Glad you got it fixed!
#20
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My '97 5-speed is having similar issues as the original poster, but this all started once it got cold out. Any ideas what could be triggered by cold weather? Also the clutch pedal is not returning to its original position as fast, sometimes it gets stuck about half way and I pull it back out with my foot. The clutch isn't slipping at all once into gear though.
Last edited by UNR.Grad; 11-14-2012 at 05:25 AM.