Dieselyota

Email me at: todd-jeni@sbcglobal.net

SEAN_at_TLT

Resurrecting an old thread here but I have a few nagging issues on this topic and I hate making new threads to rehash old subjects.

As some of you know we recently swapped a 3.4 into our '89 4Runner. Everything up until this point has gone really well and the motor is in and running very strong. We are just tidying up the last few things such as the A/C issues and the oil-pressure sender etc.

I gave away the blown 3.0 motor before I knew we needed the oil pressure sender so I ordered one from Toyota instead. The part they sent doesn't seem right, it seems to big (and too expensive!) I think they sent the actual mechanical part of the gauge by accident. There is no place to attach the wiring harness on the piece they sent. Does the 3.0 sender plug right into the 3.4 harness or do I need to splice a connector?

Also the speedometer is not working and I haven't heard of anyone having that problem before so I'm assuming it's just not hooked up at the tranny or something. I just have to physically look on that one I guess...

That's all I can think of right now but I think there are a few other minor issues.

wellyman

Hey all:

Sorry I haven't updated this thread recently. I haven't had any time to work on the truck much. I have, however, found a few of the issues. The "clicking", or so I thought, is a small exhaust leak, close to the manifolds on the drivers side. I haven't gotten under there to locate it yet, but that's what the underhood noise is. As far as the stumbling, surging issue, it's either a defective injector or the injector seals. I can hear flow when I turn the motor off from it, and I can smell gas. I think it's the seal that's between the injector and rail. I still have yet to figure out the unability to connect to the ecu via scanner, but I've just about given up on that. I have yet to address my A/C as well. So I'm hoping to get a chance to work on it this week. I figure I'll have to order new injector seals and get them in hand before I begin. Knowing Toyota, they'll cost an arm and a leg. Also need to work around the weather here, as they're calling for snow/ice tomorrow, so we'll see.

The oil pressure sender is a cylinder, that has a treaded end that goes directly into the block, on the drivers side. It has a single pin connector. The plug is the same on the 3.0 and 3.4. I would say you have the wrong part. It should look like a mini fuel pump in shape. About 3 inches long and 1 inch diameter. Direct swap, no modifications needed.

The speedometer is also a direct swap. I cut my tranny harness off of my 3.0 and wired it into the new 3.4/ECU circuit. It's a 3 wire connector.

Good luck.

SEAN_at_TLT

Yeah, the part we got is more like 2" diameter by 1" tall and w/no harness connection.

EDIT: Talked to the parts guy on the horn today, determined that there are two possible part #'s and we got the wrong one, it is a pressure sender but the connection is different. He ordered the right one and we'll have it tomorrow.

I thought the speedo was a mechanical connection? Is it the same on an '89 as it was on your newer truck?

Had the dash apart to solder in the resistor for the tach and found that the speedo/odo cable was disconnected, but it is also broken. The inner cable is not there or broken and it looks like we need a new cable/sheath.

Speaking of the tach, it does read now with the 10K OHM resistor in place but it does a few funky things. The needle drops to 0 RPM briefly when going uphill in 1st from a stop and sometimes seems kinda slow to react but other than that it seems fairly accurate.

Still need to get the AC working, but that's about it after the speedo cable...

The 3.4L will chirp second gear big time man that thing pulls hard!

wellyman

Well hopefully you'll get your OP sendor right. My 93's speedometer is a sensor, just like the newer ones. I can't verify that you have the same tranny as the 93. What tranny do you have? R150? I don't know, but I don't have a cable at all to the tranny. Sounds like you do have mechanical. My tach work flawlessly. I don't see anything odd about it. It seems to take awhile to climb RPM's, but I'll blame that on the HP of the motor No, I agree, it's not too bad for the 6 and the weight of the 4runner. A huge difference on the 3.slow. I too still have to work on my A/C.

SEAN_at_TLT

Our tranny and gauge cluster is the stock older R-150. So we didn't mess with any of that. The tranny stayed in the truck the whole time. I'm thinking the cable is just broken...

I will get a price quote on a new cable & sheath tomorrow.

SEAN_at_TLT

Got a new speedo cable ($80 OUCH!) and that fixed the speedo/odo problem. Also figured out the tach, it's dialed now. The only thing left is both the coolant temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge are acting weird. It seems like the wiring is crossed in the ORS harness because ever since completing the swap we have had a reading on the oil pressure gauge even with the sender disconnected and there was no reading from the coolant temp even with it connected. I got the oil-pressure sender in today and plugged it into the harness, now the coolant temp gauge is reading. FWIW I had to rewire the 3.0 sender because it doesn't have the same type of connection as the 3.4 one did. Can someone take a quick pic of their sender and post it? The only thing I can possibly think of is that they are each wired to the opposite's gauge. I'd swap 'em but I think the coolant temp sender is located under the intake manifold and it's hard to get to. Eventually I will have to I guess...

I also installed a windshield washer fluid pump from my wrecked '97, it was a direct plug in, I only had to lengthen the two wires about 10". Also slapped on some Bosch wipers so now the truck is ready for the rain we've been getting.

The guys at Toyota Santa Cruz were pretty interested in the truck when we rolled up to the service area to pick up the parts we ordered.

desert whomper

how does the truck run now? everything fixed?

wellyman

still pretty much the same. All is well, except for the occasional stumble. I can usually tell when it's going to happen. At a stop light, my idle drops real low, and rumbles. When I start to go, it stumbles, bucks, and to fix it, I push in the clutch and rev it. It sputters for a few seconds, then smooths out and once that happens, I let out the clutch and it's fine. Sometimes I have to do this a few times to "clear" it out. Don't have a clue as to what it could be. I'm gonna replace the fuel filter, even though it's new. Other than that, I have absolutely no idea as to what it could be.

SEAN_at_TLT

What a bummer/stumper of a problem...

Red_Chili

Looks like a perfectly good thread to hijack...
The mighty Red Chili is mightier. Mighty mightier. Mike at ORS did a nice job.

There are some details to be worked out though. I know nothing about A/C, but it seems to me it should be simple, maybe even as simple as cutting the rubber hoses and splicing the 22RE and 5VZ hoses together to make 'new' ones. From where would I get these fittings? The only place I can find in town is an outfit that wants my truck for a couple days, plus $350, and they will make new hoses, install a new condenser/drier for R134a, and charge the system. Seems steep, and I'm not sure the 87 condenser/drier is not compatible with R134a - does anyone know? I do suppose I need to install ports on the high pressure and low pressure lines. What are my options?

Secondly, I've seen lots of pix on modifying the 3.0 tachs from first or second generation trucks. Simple, and I am a trained electronics tech from a bunch of jobs ago, so no biggie. But no pix nor mention ANYwhere on modifying the I-4 tach. Can it be done? Or am I out another $100 or so, for an 88 or 89 3.0 instrument cluster, assuming I can find one? Them thingies be gettin' rare.

Willcipher

Regarding your A/C, I swapped a 3.4 motor from a 2001 Tacoma into my 88 4runner (was a 3.0 V6). Hooking up the A/C was simple; I used the compressor and mount that came with the new motor and swapped my old compressor's top plate onto the new compressor. Then I simply hooked up my existing A/C lines to the 3.4 compressor via the 3.0 top plate. Voila! I would suggest that you see if your 22RE compressor top plate is the same bolt pattern as the 5VZ top plate. If so, you need only carefully swap the plates, (four 8mm hex bolts, I believe) vaccuum the system and charge it up. Your entire system will handle R134A but you'll want to replace the receiver/dryer because the dessicant will contain R12 oil residue. If your 22RE compressor top plate is different from the 5VZ, you may try finding a 3VZ compressor (from an 88) and snatch the plate and lines. Just a thought. Also, make sure you hook up the tach wire from the 5VZ to old 22RE tach feed. The A/C controller needs to see the signal in order to engage the compressor. Without this signal, the A/C controller won't allow the compressor to engage.

As far as the tach mod is concerned, you may be able to use your tach, do the resistor mod mentioned in other threads, and calibrate the tach using a potentiometer.

Red_Chili

Sadly, it's not. But I did find a fix after a LOT of searching: the local NAPA makes hoses. He makes them out of new parts, but I prevailed upon him to make them out of my old hoses (because there is no stinking way he's gonna find the right Toyota fittings anyway). He won't warranty them, but he'll make them. I'll take that chance.

He needs to add a service port on the low side anyway, so that will be the splice. Then he sells a condenser with a high side port built in, and carries the right O-rings. Total for parts and hoses? Should be less than $80, compared to more than $200 from Maxair here in Denver. Then, either I'll get it charged, or buy the kit and charge it myself.

As far as the tach, I guess I can try it. Hate to roach a perfectly good tach my son might use, all for an experiment. Hoping to leverage someone else's pain, but... heck, why not.