Brown

I just got done replacing the timing chain after 125,000 miles. The guides were broken, the tensioner was very worn out, and the timing chain had jumped one tooth. I replaced everything with a kit from engnbldr that includes the driver's side steel guide. I also replaced all the plugs, wires, cap and rotor while I was at it and adjsuted valve clearance. I'm not sure what the timing was set at before all this happened, but ever since I got it back together, I have some pre-ignition going on when the engine is under a load-- especially going up a hill. I set the timing by the book-- 5 deg BTDC at 750 rpm with test connector shorted. I am currently running 87 octane fuel just like I always have in this truck. I've pulled the EFI fuse several times also, to see if that would reset anything. EGR valve is functioning, too. I'm kind of stumped now. I will probably try a higher octane fuel soon, but I don't want that to be the permanent fix, because it's just covering up the real problem, IMO. I'm just wondering if there is something wrong with the advance perhaps?

growinseed

A few thoughts; Are the sparks pulg gapped properly, did you use NGK or ND? Did you check the air gap between the signal rotor and the pick-up coil?(at base of rotor shaft, specs .008in-.016in) the motor was at nor.op. temp. for valve adjustment?.
I have a feeling it just a minor tune-up issue.
Good luck
Nathan
'85 22R 300K

david in germany

just did a top end rebuild on mine too but one thing i have always done is set the timing about 8btdc and it brings up the idle and smoths it out a little (little bit more power too) try it and see.
David

Brown

Spark plugs are new and I gapped them correctly at install. I believe .031" is the factory spec. I used Autolite plugs, which is what I've used before on this truck. I didn't know about checking the gap in the distributor. Is there one on an EFI engine? The only reason I asked was because I saw your engine was carbureted. I'll have to check the manual about that.

I did the valves on a cold motor. I adjusted to .007" intake and .010" exhaust. I read somewhere to go a little bit smaller on a cold engine, but I need to track that info down again and verify. Maybe I went the wrong way.

Brown

I would think advancing the ignition would make it worse-- since it is a pre-ignition problem.

growinseed

My buddy has got a 86 22re and there's a signal rotor in there as well. He was having problems towing a small trailer up hills a hwy speed, not enough power. ended up melting a dis. cap before we figured the air gap was too big. On the 86 there is an adjustment to close the gap. Don't be fooled be the magnetic tip on the pick-up coil with your feeler guage. Also you can go tighter on a cold valve adjustment because everthing expands a bit after heating, you might want to recheck them at nor. op. temp. just to rule out that option.
With spark pulls I go with NGK or ND just to be sure. I think most people on this board run OEM plugs and wires because they work so well.
HTH
Nathan

Brown

cool! thanks for the info-- I will check that out.

elnip

Be sure when you measure the air gap you use a brass feeler gauge, not the typical metal one. Trust me.

What you should do is put #1 at Top Dead Center and make sure the timing marks are lined up on the timing chain gears. Look and see where the rotor is pointing in relation to #1 position on the cap. Maybe the distributor is one gear tooth to far advanced.

You probably already did this but it was all I could think of off the top of my head.

Brown

Thanks for the tip on the brass feeler gage.

Yeah, I made sure I lined everything up dead nuts when I put it all back together. There's too many other things in the way to have to do it all over again.
:pat:

AllCammedUp

I'm really interested in this thread, as I'm doing a new head/cam from engnbldr and a timing kit from him as well. I'm putting the motor back together as we speak, and I want to make sure I check whatever is the issue here.

Could someone please enlighten me on what the 'air gap' is? this is the first I've ever heard of this term. Thanks!

elnip

On the distributor, under the rotor is a 4 sided piece on the distributor shaft and a little sensor (Hall sensor) that is attached to the dist. housing with two wires coming out of it. The relation of the sensor to the magnetic target(4 sided piece) is the air gap.
It has to be within spec for the Hall sensor to detect it properly and send a signal to the ignitor to fire the coil. Since it is magnetic, you do not want to use a metal feeler gauge since you can de-magnetize the target. That is why you should check it with a brass feeler gauge.

I say 4 sided piece and magnetic target due to the fact that I am not awake enough to remember the correct name of it!:pat:

Brown

Elnip-- Just wanted to give a shout out to a fellow New Mexican! I grew up in Alamogordo.

One thing to note about the air gap is that you'll either have to mark the distributor position, loosen the one bolt holding it down, and then rotate it to get the sensor aligned with the magnet in order to check the gap. Otherwise you'll have to bump the engine over with the cap off to *hopefully* get those 2 things aligned.

It was the darndest things last night: I was trying to check that gap and there was a huge storm brewing and about to dump rain at any second. I thought I could get the cap off, check it, and then be done with it. But I couldn't get it the magnet and the sensor aligned properly before it started pouring down rain, so I hastily put it back together and decided to try it again another day.

I was able to retard my timing quickly this morning to 2.5* BTDC, and drive it that way to work. It took away so much of the spark knock, that I will probably drive it this way for a while to see how it is and what kind of mileage I will get. The only time it has even a hint of pinging is when I'm going up a long hill in 3rd gear or above and stick my foot into the gas (which basically lugs the engine). At that point I should probably be downshifting anyway.

kyle_22r

would that be the reluctor?

AllCammedUp

I appreciate the reply, and I'm sorry to ask for more info, but could you post a picture that shows what you are talking about? Maybe draw a circle around the part or something similar that shows us what it's supposed to look like? Thanks!

elnip

Sorry guys for reviving this but I have been on vacation....

Sweet! What the H*ll are you doing in GA?

I think he's got it!

Sorry I don't have a pic to show you, I don't have the truck anymore but hopefully someone helped you out by now.

Brown

I have wondered that myself quite often. I moved to NY after college for a job, and then moved down to Georgia to be closer to the girl I was dating and eventually married. I was able to get a good job here in Georgia, too, so I'm sure we'll stay here for a while. I really miss the West, though. I plan on taking my wife out there next year, hopefully. She's originally from NY, and has never been out West. I'm hoping she'll like it so much that she'll want to move there sometime! Maybe not Alamogordo, because there's not much there in the way of engineering jobs, unless you work for the government, but maybe I could get her to move to a larger city in Arizona, Colorado or NM. Do you go over to Alamogordo very often, or go up to the mountains over there very much?

As to the original point of the post, I have been running 2.5* BTDC with 89 octane fuel for the last week. It seems to be okay, but I still get some spark knock when accelerating under a heavy load. I don't think I would be able to go to 5* BTDC as it is right now. I'm still thinking there is something not exactly right with it. It runs great, but I think there must be something that's not adjusted exactly right. I'm going to keep pecking at it, though.

elnip

Sounds like you have the eastern side of the country covered! I have a place up in Ruidoso and love to ride in Cloudcroft. I work out on WSMR so I will stay in Alamo from time to time. I have Grandparents in Roswell too. Cruces is booming. Makes me wonder where the money is comming from.

Looking at your avitar brings back memories...... I had a grey 86' Turbo before my Tacoma. I loved that truck. It is still here in Cruces.

I can't remember exactly what the timing is supposed to be but that sure seems low. Keep at it!

Brown

Where do you ride in Cloudcroft? I left NM after high school, and that was before I was into wheeling, so I don't really know much about the area concerning that. I'm sure there are many awesome places to go.

My grandma still lives in Alamo, so I still have some connections there, but most of the rest of my family moved away. Makes me kinda sad, because I always imagined myself retiring there. Had any good green chile lately? :cry: Man, everytime I freakin' talk to someone from NM, it makes me want to go back even more.

Yeah, 2.5* is a little low for the timing, but stock spec is 5* BTDC with the test connector shorted @ 750 rpm. I'm just going to have to keep digging into it, because it should run without pinging at 5* no problem, so to me there is still something not right.

elnip

There is at least 100 miles of trails between Cloudcroft and Sunspot. It is a blast! The Rim Trail is my favorite. You can see across the whole Basin. Speaking of green chile, I am on my last ziplock in the freezer. The first crop will be coming in within 3-4 weeks so I will barely make it. The fields look good this year. You know there is nothing for the endorphines like some good hot green chile

If that doesn't tempt you then I have to say you are done for! LOL

Keep me posted on what you find and maybe some brainstorming on this end will jar something loose.

jrallan26

Just read your dilema about your P/U project. Talking with my fellow Toyota nut, you did everything correct but one thing:

My friend Rich (who is a Toyota mechanic) says you should adjust your valves "hot". By saying that, you should start as soon as the engine is turned off.


I trust Rich, he eats, sleeps, lives by the 22RE. He thinks its the best motor Toyota has ever made. And his 22RE's fly.