22RE Buildup
#1
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22RE Buildup
Well, I finally pulled my motor, ordered a bunch of parts, and slapped it all together. I hydrolocked my motor about 3 months ago going through a "small puddle". Needless to say, I was pretty dumb. But it happens...so I figured I would use this as an opportunity to rebuild my 22RE from the ground up. Here is what I started with:
Pulled the head to find this:
Once broken down, I realized that although the cylinder walls looked ok, rods 3 and 4 were bent. Bad news.
Got it out and started breaking it down for the shop:
Then the credit card was broken out......and the depletion of the bank account began....
Pulled the head to find this:
Once broken down, I realized that although the cylinder walls looked ok, rods 3 and 4 were bent. Bad news.
Got it out and started breaking it down for the shop:
Then the credit card was broken out......and the depletion of the bank account began....
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The grand list of parts:
- Rockstomper motor mounts
- Engnbldr master rebuild kit (.20 over pistons and .10 under bearings)
- 22ret oil pump (4% better flow)
- Engnbldr Street RV head
- Engnbldr 261 cam (looking for lower end grunt)
- ARP head studs
- LC pro rods
- LC big bore TB
- LC header
- 2 1/4 Catco cat
- 2 1/4 Flowmaster delta 50 series muffler
- Junkyard '82 Supra AFM
- Flexalite 165
I had the block and crank machined at Gary's Machine shop in town (excellet people to deal with) and had my injectors sent out to Cruzin Performace (also excellet to deal with).
Got the block primed:
And then one last thing was purchased.....
A can of Daytona Yellow spraypaint
- Rockstomper motor mounts
- Engnbldr master rebuild kit (.20 over pistons and .10 under bearings)
- 22ret oil pump (4% better flow)
- Engnbldr Street RV head
- Engnbldr 261 cam (looking for lower end grunt)
- ARP head studs
- LC pro rods
- LC big bore TB
- LC header
- 2 1/4 Catco cat
- 2 1/4 Flowmaster delta 50 series muffler
- Junkyard '82 Supra AFM
- Flexalite 165
I had the block and crank machined at Gary's Machine shop in town (excellet people to deal with) and had my injectors sent out to Cruzin Performace (also excellet to deal with).
Got the block primed:
And then one last thing was purchased.....
A can of Daytona Yellow spraypaint
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Ganoid, looks like your two cylinders too many. The yellow does add at least 10 horsepower to the rear wheels.
I still have the old exhaust mani sitting around....taking up space
I still have the old exhaust mani sitting around....taking up space
Last edited by Wildcat_4R; 04-26-2005 at 02:29 PM.
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Well after some messing around...the motor went in last night. I got the girlfriend to help out which is always cool. She helped check bolt torque specs (as seen below) and helped adjust the valves.
It was a PITA to get all of the bolts tightened up on the tranny and motor mounts but at least I know the motor isn't going anywhere without the truck.
And here is a side by side of my old AFM and my "new" 1982 Supra AFM:
Quite a larger opening! Should complement my big bore TB and port matched manifold and head. Just need to get it running and I can start tuning it. Hopefully I can get it running by this evening. I won't be able to weld up the exhaust till this weekend though, my friends welder is outta gas. Would it be bad to drive around with just an open header?
It was a PITA to get all of the bolts tightened up on the tranny and motor mounts but at least I know the motor isn't going anywhere without the truck.
And here is a side by side of my old AFM and my "new" 1982 Supra AFM:
Quite a larger opening! Should complement my big bore TB and port matched manifold and head. Just need to get it running and I can start tuning it. Hopefully I can get it running by this evening. I won't be able to weld up the exhaust till this weekend though, my friends welder is outta gas. Would it be bad to drive around with just an open header?
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Man, we started our rebuilds about the same time you sure have moved a lot faster than me. But then again the machine shop I took mine too took about 3 weeks. I was thinking about painting my block Hugger Orange. Cause I'm a Chevy boy at heart but I think I'll keep it black. Your engine looks awesome. So clean. Nice work.
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87Turbo- My color choices were a tossup between the chevy orange, grabber green, or the daytona yellow. I figured the brighter the better. I think the orange would look great as well. You only get 24.3 hp with the orange though. So after extensive dyno testing I found out that I could squeeze 25.0001 hp out with the yellow.
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Just slap a VTEC sticker on the side and a APC windshield eyebrow and you should be well into the mid-10 second quarter mile range with that bad boy.
Does the yellow add 25hp to the rear bumper or the driver's side mudflap?
Sorry my friends make jokes all the time about me cause I don't drive a ford or a chevy. I just pass them on.
On a more serious note that looks like an awesome job on that motor.
Can't wait to see some results.
Does the yellow add 25hp to the rear bumper or the driver's side mudflap?
Sorry my friends make jokes all the time about me cause I don't drive a ford or a chevy. I just pass them on.
On a more serious note that looks like an awesome job on that motor.
Can't wait to see some results.
#15
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right on! if there's one thing it doesn't hurt to be, it's over-picky when setting up an engine. cleanliness can definitely tip the scale towards success in an engine rebuild.
like the color! i painted mine ford blue though so it wouldn't match everything else in my truck helped me spot some freeze plug leaks quickly after i got it running -- turns the leaks BRIGHT green!
like the color! i painted mine ford blue though so it wouldn't match everything else in my truck helped me spot some freeze plug leaks quickly after i got it running -- turns the leaks BRIGHT green!
#16
I would of chose a crazy ass color two but just in case I get pulled over I don't want the cop to realize exactly what he's looking at. 3 weeks for a rebuild is way too long. I took it to this place my mechanic friend recommended that had a good reputation and it took them like 3 days. As long as the work is good its worth the wait. The only thing I worry about is if my machine shop did a good job. I guess I'll find out in a week or two when I do my swap.
#17
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my rebuild took over a month -- but i spent a lot of time waiting on parts, tearing down the engine, etc. that, and the fact that i work long days, i probably put a week of solid effort into the rebuild and tranny swap
#18
The wait for parts is fun especially when they're on back order. yea my motor swap is taking way longer than I thought it would b/c of me. I kept changing my mind and ordered more and more performance parts. I changed from a simple turbo conversion to an almost fully built motor. Just last night the words of a friend of mine kept echoing through my head, "Are you gonna get new injectors?" That ate away at me almost all night and today I pulled the injectors out and inspected them. I decided that the injectors were fine and just replaced the o rings and rubber seats. I just hope I don't find anything else that I want to buy for my motor until after the swap.
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Got the motor in and wired. Trying to start it up and I don't think I am getting any fuel. Spark checks out fine. Injectors are good as well (just got them cleaned). Anyone have any ideas on getting the fuel to flow? Is there any issues with having the truck sit for over 3 months? Just posted this over in the maintenence section:
"I just recently rebuilt my 22RE. I am trying to get it started but it doesn't seem like fuel is entering the cylinders. I have cranked it over for several seconds and do not smell any fuel in the chambers nor is the end of the spark plug even slightly damp. I have checked the spark and that is not an issue. How would I go about checking my fuel system to make sure that fuel is getting in there?"
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
"I just recently rebuilt my 22RE. I am trying to get it started but it doesn't seem like fuel is entering the cylinders. I have cranked it over for several seconds and do not smell any fuel in the chambers nor is the end of the spark plug even slightly damp. I have checked the spark and that is not an issue. How would I go about checking my fuel system to make sure that fuel is getting in there?"
Any information would be greatly appreciated.