Shane

No they don't, and as Chris said the ones that do are cheap junk. I sought them out, tried them, they worked at first but failed within a few weeks and my dry startup noise came back.
The anti-drainback valve is there to keep the can of the oil filter from draining back into the pan. While it may help keep oil in the galleys that is not what it is meant for. Besides, the tolerances in the bearings are too tight for any signifigant amount of oil to drain out in the way you describe without being under pressure.

Oh ya, and it's been proven that Fram's filter material is crap.

foxtrapper

Lets try this again. Every filter sold as fitting the Toyota 22R, 22RE, etc engine *WILL HAVE AN ANTI-DRAIN BACK VALVE. That's part of meeting the specification of that filter. Now, a different filter, such as the one for my 1948 Ford will not have that anti-drain back valve. Doesn't matter if it's a Wix filter, a Fram, or an OEM Ford filter. It's because the specification for the filter does not call for it. So when we're talking about a Toyota truck filter, it *will* have an anti-drain back valve. This has nothing to do with the condition and effectiveness of the valve mind you.

Be very carefull when inspecting filters to inspect the same ones. Lots of dishonesty exists here. The common cut open filters on display at auto stores are a good example of this, as I've never seen one yet that had comparable filters on display. The offensive Fram is always their low end filter, and the "good guy" filter is always the high end. This ensures the good guy looks better then they really are. This is not to defend Fram, but to point out things aren't always as they first seem.

As for the conviction that oil cannot flow out through bearing clearances without pressure, do some testing of that and see that it's otherwise. Oil has a very low surface tension, and as such can creep and flow wonderfully, as all of us who have had our oil cans leak empty can attest to.

And btw, I don't use Fram filters, haven't for years, and consider them to be absolute junk, as I described in my first post.

Shane

The Fram filters I used to use were spec'd for my 22RE, and did not have an anti-drainback valve. Sorry, but you're wrong.

86toyota

Ok not sure where to look for a ADBV but this is what a new fram Ph3614 filter that I had on my shelf looks like.Is it the plastic pionted dome in the center of filter at the bottom,or is it the rubber seal that's behind the 8 small holes?I'm trying to get educated here!

foxtrapper

The rubber seal is the anti-drain back valve, but don't show it to Shane, you'll upset him He's convinced they aren't there.

Not quite following your description, but on the other end of the can is the pressure relief valve that opens of pressure gets to high from the oil not going through the filter media.

Shane

Yes, I am. I have cut one open, and it had no valves whatsoever.

This is all pointless anyways, cause I know we agree that [fake scottish accent] Fram is still crap! [/fake scottish accent]

williemon

If frams do have the ADBV, they do not work. I discovered several years back when I used fram on my 22re. When it came time for the oil change, I would make sure the oil was hot, drain it and pull the filter. This always resulted in oil pouring out the filter upon removal. I discovered by accident though, that if I let the hot engine sit for about 1 hour, then remove the pan plug and filter, that the oil was still warm enough to flow well, but none came out of the filter because it had all flowed back into the pan. THATS COOL!! So I thought. later, after reading some forums about the ADBV, I decided to switch to another filter and just clean up the mess that a good filter leaves.


This brings me to a question about the oil for my 22re. Im having to deal with piston slap. I used to use syntec 5-50 but now use moble 1 5-30. really no difference in the piston slap. Should I be using a 20-50 or a 10-30 to help quiet the slap?

Shane

Oh, and on this topic I have my old 22RE block sitting in the garage stripped down to block and crank. I still have oil dripping out of the galleys almost two years later.

SolidDigital

I'm not trying to defend fram filters but more just trying to give people who have used them a little peace of mind, there are requirements they have to meet so it shouldn't KILL your engine using one. you don't have to cut one open to tell if it has an ADBV, just look in the little holes on the outer edge and if there's a rubber flap, well that's the ADBV.

the tough guard actually has a silicone ADBV.

the plastic part in the bottom center of the filter is the bypass valve. it opens after a certin pressure, say if the filter medea were to get clogged (if you never change it) and usually on cold starts.

Mike Murrell

Varying oil viscosity won't cure piston slap. Repair will. You'll have to go inside the engine to do that.