2 new radiators failed in 4 months... any suggestions?
07-25-2005, 03:48 PM
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2 new radiators failed in 4 months... any suggestions?
Hi all,
The title says it all. I installed the first one on March 31, 2005 and within a couple of months it started leaking somewhere from the neck area below the cap and the metal pipe protruding from the neck. The second one started leaking just a few days ago from the same area. 2 new radiators (SPI brand - lifetime warranty) in 4 months! The radiator caps were new along with both the top and bottom hoses. I also flushed the system out at least half a dozen times. Anyway, I plan to change it out a 3rd time, along with a new thermostat.
Any comments? suggestions? And no, I won't be selling the truck.
Troy
The title says it all. I installed the first one on March 31, 2005 and within a couple of months it started leaking somewhere from the neck area below the cap and the metal pipe protruding from the neck. The second one started leaking just a few days ago from the same area. 2 new radiators (SPI brand - lifetime warranty) in 4 months! The radiator caps were new along with both the top and bottom hoses. I also flushed the system out at least half a dozen times. Anyway, I plan to change it out a 3rd time, along with a new thermostat.
Any comments? suggestions? And no, I won't be selling the truck.
Troy
Last edited by YotaJunky; 07-25-2005 at 03:57 PM.
07-25-2005, 04:01 PM
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That's strange. I'd see if some sort of physical strain is being put on that part of the radiator. Perhaps the hose is tugging on the metal pipe somehow, or the metal pipe is being hit by the hood? It just seems fishy that two broke in the same place.
07-25-2005, 04:02 PM
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You may have just gotten a bad production run batch. You know that, and I'm making the assumption they're metal upper tanks and necks, you can solder them. Just get some good, resin core solder and a small torch, and run a good bead of solder around the neck. Some flux would be highly beneficial, too. You do, of course, have to make sure that the metal to be soldered is good and clean, no paint, or corrosion. I wire-brush the heck out of something I'm going to solder. And the coolant has to be waaaay down below the solder area too. This is just a suggestion to get you back on the road again without having to send the rad in to get replaced.
Alternatively, you could also run a bead of something along the lines of JB Weld around the neck too, instead of, or in addition to, the solder. I had a little leak around the neck of my new rad a few years ago, and I ran some JB Weld around the neck, where it joins the tank, and it hasn't leaked to this day...
Just a couple of suggestions. Like I said, it may just be a slight flaw in that production batch, and the next thousnd radiators would have nothing wrong with them. I hope it's a 3 core, also. May as well get quality for your money
Alternatively, you could also run a bead of something along the lines of JB Weld around the neck too, instead of, or in addition to, the solder. I had a little leak around the neck of my new rad a few years ago, and I ran some JB Weld around the neck, where it joins the tank, and it hasn't leaked to this day...
Just a couple of suggestions. Like I said, it may just be a slight flaw in that production batch, and the next thousnd radiators would have nothing wrong with them. I hope it's a 3 core, also. May as well get quality for your money
07-25-2005, 04:49 PM
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I'm leaning toward the idea that it was a bad production run also. If it fails a 3rd time (knock on wood), I'll be thinking about getting an OEM rad. Well, I'm getting pretty darn quick with changing out rads now. This next one shouldn't take me any more than 45 min to an hour, after the engine has cooled down of course.
Since it's got a lifetime warranty, I may as well change it out, rather than try to fix it, because if it continues to leak after I've tried to repair it, they may deny my warranty. Also, I've got an OEM thermostat on order and expect to pick it up tomorrow.
Troy
Since it's got a lifetime warranty, I may as well change it out, rather than try to fix it, because if it continues to leak after I've tried to repair it, they may deny my warranty. Also, I've got an OEM thermostat on order and expect to pick it up tomorrow.
Troy
07-25-2005, 04:54 PM
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Is it a dual valve thermostat? They're the only way to fly! Makes a huge difference...
07-25-2005, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ToyGuy
Is it a dual valve thermostat? They're the only way to fly! Makes a huge difference...
Troy
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07-25-2005, 11:41 PM
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The new rad you bought a couple of months ago, does it have plastic around the neck and sides or is it all medal. Mines all medal and works ok, but its getting old.Thinking about replacing it, but now I,m not sure. Maybe just a good cleaning.
07-25-2005, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by troy65
Not sure what it is other than an OEM part. If it's good enough for Toyota, it's good enough for me.
Troy
Troy
what you probably got is the standard replacement thermostat... they suck... i had an oem one and it was from the dealer and it failed in 5 months....
the dual stage is a oem part... jsut has a differnt # and is way better.... had it in for probably around a year now and havent had any problems with overheating since.....
i noticed you have a v6, not sure if this even applies to you... i know the dual stage tstat is for the R engines, not sure about the v6s though
07-26-2005, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowrunner
The new rad you bought a couple of months ago, does it have plastic around the neck and sides or is it all medal. Mines all medal and works ok, but its getting old.Thinking about replacing it, but now I,m not sure. Maybe just a good cleaning.
Troy
Last edited by YotaJunky; 07-26-2005 at 05:10 AM.
07-26-2005, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jimabena74
what you probably got is the standard replacement thermostat... they suck... i had an oem one and it was from the dealer and it failed in 5 months....
the dual stage is a oem part... jsut has a differnt # and is way better.... had it in for probably around a year now and havent had any problems with overheating since.....
i noticed you have a v6, not sure if this even applies to you... i know the dual stage tstat is for the R engines, not sure about the v6s though
the dual stage is a oem part... jsut has a differnt # and is way better.... had it in for probably around a year now and havent had any problems with overheating since.....
i noticed you have a v6, not sure if this even applies to you... i know the dual stage tstat is for the R engines, not sure about the v6s though
Hmmm. Since you have first hand experience with both units, I'll ask about the dual stage oem part.
Troy
07-26-2005, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jimabena74
what you probably got is the standard replacement thermostat... they suck... i had an oem one and it was from the dealer and it failed in 5 months....
the dual stage is a oem part... jsut has a differnt # and is way better.... had it in for probably around a year now and havent had any problems with overheating since.....
i noticed you have a v6, not sure if this even applies to you... i know the dual stage tstat is for the R engines, not sure about the v6s though
the dual stage is a oem part... jsut has a differnt # and is way better.... had it in for probably around a year now and havent had any problems with overheating since.....
i noticed you have a v6, not sure if this even applies to you... i know the dual stage tstat is for the R engines, not sure about the v6s though
I did some searching on the net and found the following with regard to the 2 stage thermostat.
"Some 1984 pickup trucks and 1983-1984 Celica models, equipped with 22R-E engines, may experience a condition called "temperature gauge overshoot". After starting a cold engine the temperature gauge will indicate a higher than normal engine temperature for a short time just prior to the thermostat opening. After the thermostat opens, the temperature gauge will return to the normal range. A new double valve thermostat has been made available to reduce temperature gauge overshoot.
And calls for part number 90916-03070 which according to the TSB replaces 90916-03055."
Troy
07-26-2005, 05:31 AM
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The main reason(s) to go to the dual stage therm is because, in the 22RE, if you have the heater on on a fairly cold day, the temp guage will go pretty high. Sounds counter-intuitive (my $5.00 word for the day!), but what happens is that there's enough cold water coming in from the heater core to hold the thermostat valve closed, or a lot more closed than it should be, making the temp guage go high. The dual stage has a smaller valve that opens at a lower temp, permitting enough water to go through, even when the main valve is being held closed by the "cold" (everything is relative ) water coming from the heater core, to keep everything going properly.
And that, dear friends, is why the dual stage thermostat is so popular with the 22RE crowd.
) water coming from the heater core, to keep everything going properly. And that, dear friends, is why the dual stage thermostat is so popular with the 22RE crowd.
07-26-2005, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 2ToyGuy
The main reason(s) to go to the dual stage therm is because, in the 22RE, if you have the heater on on a fairly cold day, the temp guage will go pretty high. Sounds counter-intuitive (my $5.00 word for the day!), but what happens is that there's enough cold water coming in from the heater core to hold the thermostat valve closed, or a lot more closed than it should be, making the temp guage go high. The dual stage has a smaller valve that opens at a lower temp, permitting enough water to go through, even when the main valve is being held closed by the "cold" (everything is relative ) water coming from the heater core, to keep everything going properly.
And that, dear friends, is why the dual stage thermostat is so popular with the 22RE crowd.
) water coming from the heater core, to keep everything going properly. And that, dear friends, is why the dual stage thermostat is so popular with the 22RE crowd.
I'm not sure if this will happen with the 3.0L because the thermostat is located behind the bottom hose. I'll ask the parts department for more information.
07-26-2005, 07:18 AM
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I don't know about the 3.0 either. It may not be a factor for those. Probably not, given the position of the therostat in those engines. If so, consider yourself lucky. Those dual stage thermostats are kind of pricey...
07-26-2005, 05:05 PM
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I once had a car with a bad head gasket, it would pressurize the water so high it exploded my top hose and then when I put that on new it blew a hole in my radiator.
about that time I noticed that while the engine was running the water in the open radiator would geyser up out of the top... it was really gone by then.
but if your head gasket is going bad and its built the way mine was.... the water pressure is just so above normal the radiator cant take it.
well, they told me it was a bad head gasket. Back when I listened to "professionals" without looking it up for myself. lol
about that time I noticed that while the engine was running the water in the open radiator would geyser up out of the top... it was really gone by then.
but if your head gasket is going bad and its built the way mine was.... the water pressure is just so above normal the radiator cant take it.
well, they told me it was a bad head gasket. Back when I listened to "professionals" without looking it up for myself. lol
07-27-2005, 05:06 AM
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Done! I installed my third new radiator (within 4 months) and a new OEM thermostat. This time, the rad came from a different manufacturer. Hope this one holds.
Troy
Troy
Last edited by YotaJunky; 07-27-2005 at 05:08 AM.
07-27-2005, 05:25 AM
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I wish you good fortune with this radiator! Keep us posted. I would guess that if it fails again, you MAY have another, underlaying problem.
The hg can overpressurize the radiator by permitting exhaust or even just compression past the hg and into the water jacket. On the other hand, the cap should permit the excess pressure to vent off before it damages the radiator. I would have replaced the radiator cap BEFORE the hg...
The hg can overpressurize the radiator by permitting exhaust or even just compression past the hg and into the water jacket. On the other hand, the cap should permit the excess pressure to vent off before it damages the radiator. I would have replaced the radiator cap BEFORE the hg...
