thefishguy77

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Ok so I attempted to start a build thread incorrectly by mainly asking for tech help. So here is my next attempt. I recently saved a 93 from the possible scrap yard. When I got her she leaked oil every where, had mismatched tire sizes, a frozen hub, no horn, appeared to have been very wet at least once, and was way down on power; and that's just the start.

To start with I put plugs, wires, cap, rotor, changed the oil and did a fuel filter, seafoamed it 4 times and then after a tank of fresh fuel I failed emissions epicly. I had to put a new cat back exhaust just to get it to smog. This also brought me a lot of power. Then went home changed the rear diff fluid. and was disgusted by the amount of water I found in it. Front wheel bearings were next as those were also shot. Ok I then secure my parts truck and get it home. And swap front rotors, calipers, and pads. As they were all fresh on the parts truck. Wow breaks are cool.

Well I decide that I will do a timing chain next as I had no idea how old it was. Called up engnbldr and got the good stuff. Got it apart and together with out pulling the head and find I now have an epic oil leak. Awesome. Time for a head gasket. Pulled it down again this time the head also and find where I nicked the gasket while scraping the old rtv off from the po's timing job. Oh well. When I got her all back together I forgot to hook up the egr pipe on the back of the motor. Embarrassing but live and learn. Now shes dry on the front and top of the motor just a very slow leak out the back. (will fix when I swap my parts truck motor in.) Went to get the rest of my exhaust done and try and get a NWOR header for my 85 still NIB after closer inspection I realized that there is no EGR holes on the flange so I cant use it. probably just sell it and a cat I have to get the money for a new header.

I was originally going to swap the nicer cab off the parts truck but then I decided that I didn't want to mess with the different Vin numbers. So just decided to swap parts. Full power doors are in the works.

Just got a set of like new Toyo open country m/t's 31 x 10.5 x 15's. So far I like them but they are very heavy compared to my old bald mismatched bfg's. I also picked up a set of 4 wildcat ext's 31 x 11.5 x 15's mainly for the rim's because one had a blown sidewall. Suck that hardly anyone makes a 31 x 11.5 or I would have just bought a single tire and had a like new set of tires for a lot less than I spent on the Toyo's even though I paid $549. out the door. Guess I have 3 spare tires now.

Somewhere along the way I inspected my front hubs I think when I did the wheel bearings and found my frozen hub was covered with rust cleaned up ok, on the inside and my non frozen hub was missing a part. So now I need to get a set of hubs or just the part.

Plans for the near future are lots but here is a start

Zuk mod
bed swap
paint cab white to match the bed. (maybe not sure yet.)
interior swap ( some stuff, seats as mine suck, power door panels, only one problem is that the parts truck is a blue interior and mine is a grey. My dash, headliner, and interior trim are nice and I want to keep them so I guess it's seat covers and look for grey door panels at the local yards for now.)
possible rear diff swap
ausie lockers front and rear. (maybe go with a Detroit in the rear)
thinking 4:88 front and rear as I want to run 33's in the future.
(thinking BJ spacers up front and a Zuk in the rear will give me the room I need for them.)
the parts truck is auto 4wd so I don't think I can use the front end.
motor and trany swap that also has a fresh clutch.


I will add to this later and post some pics then.

Thank you all for all the help so far I am sure I will have many more questions in the future. Feel free to correct my when I am wrong as I happens a lot. And I welcome all suggestions.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I was all set on doing a zuk mod and bj spacers up front to give me a few inches of lift. When I ran in to a guy with a 89 p/u and he had shackles and a torsion bar adjustment for his left. He claimed that he had herd that people were having problems with the zuk mod and the torsion bar was just as good as the BJ spacers. now I have to do more research.

Also getting ready to paint her soon. I have aircraft paint stripper dupi-color self etching primer and lots of grey rustolium primer. I feel I need to strip it because she has been wet and I don't want rust popping through my rattle can paint job. Any tips on paint prep work?

Also I am looking at connecting my E-brake again. It needs the plastic wheel (white single plastic pulley) inside the cab replaced. luckily the PO bought it and left it in the glove box.

Question on power door swap. My parts truck is a 89 with full power. I know that I need to run hot leads to the with a big fuse to each door but unsure of the fuse size and how hard it is going to be to run a hot lead to the drivers door to trigger the pasenger window. Or should I just run them individually bucause I can reach over and press the button while driving. I have the same questions as above about power locks and windows on my new doors as well. Is there any chance that my truck will have wiring harness hook ups for the power options?

thanks again for all the help

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Well I have been looking for a set of front hubs for a while now with no luck. I actually only need the Pawl and small spring that attaches to it. So last night I drive out to Monroe to look at a set of hubs minus the outer dial.** When I get there I see Toyota parts everywhere. good sign. Well the hubs missing the dials were only the bodies. .
** I should have noticed this with the pics he sent me but I was so excited to get my parts I overlooked the obvious and went for a nice drive through the Snoqualmie valley. I did see a lot of nice Yota's in downtown Monroe.

Man my eagerness is frustrating sometimes.


since I am about a computer savvy and a bowling ball could someone help me figure out how to get my pics to upload. I have a few in my photo gallery. But it says most of mine are too big. ( sad I here that from a computer. When I go to re-size them few work but most are still to big to upload. I am just using a Nikon cool pics camera. I have lots or pics taken of my projects but I cant get them to upload.

Thanks

thefishguy77

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here are some pics of the work being done so far. I will post more if this works

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

ok so I was going to post some pics of my hubs being torn apart and what not but since Photobucket is having issues this morning. I will go back a bit and show what got my in to Toyota's and what happens when you drive through deep water. epic fail but it still ran.

First off Mike was the man who got me in to Toyota's (RIP Mike). He had a 1'st Gen that he wheeled the crap out of and would laugh at jeep as he drove by them when they were winching. sorry no pics of that one. . I do have pics of his 85 doing some mild wheeling though and this truck is what inspired me to get my first 85.








After seeing this I was hooked

A little about the truck that I still remember.
1985
12" lift
5:71's
Detroit in the rear
Center force dual friction clutch
various motor mods
38" swappers
stupid ass blue light bar in. sorry Mike but it looked dumb with a blue bar and black truck.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Well I was wheeling with Mike and a few other friends in a gravel pit and found a good looking puddle. They warned me to always go slow through water but I was new and the smartest person I knew at the time. Sorry no pics of the puddle. They got lost through time. So I stand on it and make it about
2/3's of the way through then the motor just locks up. Ummm this cant be good. Well I pull the plugs and spin the motor over till there is no more water coming out of the cylinder heads and limp it back to my parents house as I can't work on it at my apartment. When Dad gets home he looks at me and just shakes his head. Off to Shucks we go. We walk out of there with several gallons of oil and matching number of filters and I proceed to give my truck oil changes every 5 minutes till it almost looked like oil. Then every 30 minutes till there was no more white residue in the oil cap. I remember something to the extent of I hope you got lucky coming from dad's mouth. I jump in it and drive off. Fast forward 2 weeks and a few more oil changes just for good measure. Driving down 520 right before the West Lake Sammamish exit coming home from a party at about 2:30 am and BOOM. Somke and bad sound's everywhere. Call Dad HELP "I think I just threw a rod."
"How would you know you have never thrown a rod"
"I have never seen anything this bad before"
" Is it still running?"
"Umm yea"
"Try and make it home and call me in the morning"
Well I made it the last mile home. Probably woke up everyone in a 5 mile radius with how loud it was and went to bed. Woke up told Mike my roommate and he laughed at me. Then called dad got him to spring for the tow and got it back over to his place. The pics are what I found.

Freshly added breather holes in the block





Look at a this room and really bad hair



And after and new short block was found

thefishguy77

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I will try and post more pics tomorrow if Photobucket stops having issues

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

ok when I got my Yota she had questionable hubs. one would turn really easily and one needed pliers. After I got her home I took them apart and found the to both have lots of rust in them.
before








No wonder it was hard to turn. and the easy one was missing the small spring and the pwal?

New hubs came apart and cleaned up like a dream



I did find one broken stuck bolt in a new hub body and sheered one off duffing installation. bolt had to have had a crack got to maybe 5lbs and it snapped. I still have 2 good hub bodies. I guess I will have to go and get new bolts for all set's, both the good ones and the 1 and 3/4 spare sets. then all I need is a pwal and small spring.

That's all for this week. Be safe all and have a great weekend.

Neomonk

Nice work on the hubs! I'll be doing the same in about a week!

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Just one word of caution when you pull the dial apart make sure you keep track of the steel ball and spring. (pictured inside of the rubber gasket on the shop towel.) Also either buy new seals or use gasket paper to make new ones. I did the later. Not that hard.

Tools
ratchet and sockets to remove hubs
snap ring pliers
small flat head screwdriver
wire brush
tooth brush
can's of carb cleaner
grease
gloves cause carb cleaner is terrible for your skin.

I'm sure i missed something I usually do. But that's why I am a garage mechanic and not a shop mechanic.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

update on want to do's

Zuk mod
1.5 BJ spacers up front
diff drop for CV angle
Wheel spacers if needed
Low Range Off Road rear disc conversion
!" break master cylinder upgrade
T-case/drive shaft E brake (advice needed on kit)
4:56's & 33's
Lockers (still deciding on type and brand) lunch box, Ausie, or Arb?(pricey)
On board Air
Custom front and rear bumpers
Front winch
LED interior and exterior upgrades
Finally get a working horn (nobody watches for finger any more)

Neomonk

I disassembled the hubs already (still have the balls and spring ) and just received new star gaskets and o-rings a few days ago. Just waiting for the hub body to come back from being zinc plated; I hate chrome...

I'll post it up once I complete them.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Zinc is a really good idea. Look forward to seeing it.

thefishguy77

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So just before I had to leave for the weekend I decided that I needed to address the vibration I had going on in my drive line. vibration under acceleration. I figured it had to be a U joint or center support bearing. I pulled the one out of my 89 ex cab parts truck and then pulled mine. I took a overall measurement and they came out almost the same. I figured that the splines were just slightly more extended on the parts truck so I pulled the zert and pressed it in a few inches and put the zert back in. (note I did not do a side by side comparison.) So after trying to get the parts truck drive line in and not being able to under stand why no matter how I tried the center support bearing was not even close I pulled it out to do my overdue side by side comparison. I noticed that the front of the shaft to the center bearing was about one inch longer. I was shocked as the truck are both ex cab's and 22re motors. The only difference is the parts truck is a auto 4wd and mine manual. 4wd both 5 spd and stock suspension. So after I put mine back in I drove to Napa and fount out that a center bearing is like $200 felt like I got kicked in the jewels. I decided to pass for now and look into getting a one piece built. here are some pics of the drive line's.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok I was reminded about the flex or lack there of on the ifs setup.













tire off the ground barely.


man I miss my 85

J&Hfab

Nice lookin truck man I like it

thefishguy77

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having second thoughts about doing the power door swap. The more I think about it the more I think it would suck to get it all done and then have stuff IE wire connections and such break loose while wheeling. Is this a valid concern for retrofitted projects? Any thoughts are appreciated.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I am going to look at a front it's member w/4:56 gears. From the pictures I have seen it looks clean but I am realitively new to gears. Anything to look for besides broken teeth. Do I just make sure it rotates smoothly?
Thanks

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Just picked up stock TJ springs for my Zuk mod. $20 got me the fronts but for that deal I had to take the rear's also. now I need to get my BJ spacers and diff. Drop and put it all together. I am going to hate waiting to find this. I have seen a set of 2" bj spacers around here for sale but I was under the impression that 1 1/2 was the most I should do with just spacers?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

my rear driveshaft support bearing is going out and a local driveline shop said they could get it all replaced and up to par for less than or equal to the cost of the bearing in the parts store. To good to be true? It's drivelines NW pretty big name company. Any experience with them. They also steered me away from a one piece drive shaft pointing out that they could cause vibration issues and also in some cases limit travel. Seems to make some logic.

While I wait to figure that out it is time to go out and start measuring for my rear bumper build. I will be trying to do my best to copy a designe that I saw from the Wabbit. Thank you again for the link Wabbit.