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95 4runner build

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Old 01-10-2014, 07:24 AM
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You could just heat up the metal with a torch to expand the metal so you can get get the stud out with some pressure clamps easier.

I had to do this when my stud broke on my intake manifold. Welded a nut to the broken stud. The. Headed up all around the portion where the stud was to expand the metal and it came out easy. Then I cooled it down with a room temperature wet rag. Used some thread locker to lock in the new studs. It worked perfectly fine for me.
Old 01-10-2014, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeth005
You could just heat up the metal with a torch to expand the metal so you can get get the stud out with some pressure clamps easier.

I had to do this when my stud broke on my intake manifold. Welded a nut to the broken stud. The. Headed up all around the portion where the stud was to expand the metal and it came out easy. Then I cooled it down with a room temperature wet rag. Used some thread locker to lock in the new studs. It worked perfectly fine for me.
no need, but thanks for the advice! my buddy gets toyota parts dirt cheap and often has a few parts trucks or parts laying around so that's the kind of stuff that isnt worth taking the time to do. turns out he hadn't even started them until yesterday though, that's why it's taking so long.
Old 01-14-2014, 06:34 PM
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well finally some progress! cant take credit for the work though. my friend did most of it just because he wanted to knock it out really quick because it was getting dark.
got the diff rtv'd and bolted in


got the axle in


only got one side all set up because i didn't have enough wheel studs for the other side and could only get three more because oreillys didn't have any and napa charged twice what oReillys did .
Old 01-15-2014, 05:42 PM
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well we have touchdown!...kind of. its on all four tires now. i still have to get the calipers on but my friend borrowed one for his truck so i don't have them. i got the steering all tight, took off the rotors and got the studs all the way through. the brake lines are giving me a bit of a hard time. there are two clips, one e clip and one u clip that hold it to the brake dust shield but it seems like the part in the dust shield that they got through is too thick, im sure that doesn't make sense so ill try to get some pictures tomorrow.


almost broke my pinky haha


im gonna have to use different wheels after all. the stock ones are about 3/4" thick so there's only about 1/4" of thread
Old 01-20-2014, 07:24 PM
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went to a local spot today so nothing crazy but it was a good time. i didn't drive but we took up my buddies fj, my friends brothers runner and my other friends jeep. i took a bunch of pictures but the sun ruined most of them










kids first time wheelin. front tires off the ground...


rears off the ground haha


fj bottomed out


and a piece of wood got stuck in between the bead of the tire. surprisingly it held air.




squid got stuck so some old guys helped him get out




Old 01-20-2014, 11:04 PM
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well s**t, i just got excited because i was reading in rattlewagons thread that he used matrix wheels studs because they were way longer than stock ones. glad i did some research before i bought some because they are only 2.5mm longer than what i already have, wouldn't be much of a different and definitely not worth spending the extra $36 or so dollars. i guess im still looking for new wheels.
Old 01-21-2014, 06:45 AM
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They also wouldn't fit on solid axle hubs. The knurl is a bit smaller, so the splines wouldn't make enough contact and just spin. Im using IFS hubs with slip on Tacoma rotors... So little different application.

Did you put the knuckles back on the correct side this time with the break caliper in the back?

Also, your shackle angle looks a little off, what springs did you say you were running?
Old 01-21-2014, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rattlewagon
They also wouldn't fit on solid axle hubs. The knurl is a bit smaller, so the splines wouldn't make enough contact and just spin. Im using IFS hubs with slip on Tacoma rotors... So little different application.

Did you put the knuckles back on the correct side this time with the break caliper in the back?

Also, your shackle angle looks a little off, what springs did you say you were running?
yeah i noticed your setup was a lot different than mine after i posted. i still have my ifs hubs but i don't know if its worth all the work/extra money to use taco brakes.

the knuckles are back on the right way now.

my shackle angle is really bad. to put it in perspective it sat just as high on 27"s or 28"s as my friends pickup with rufs and on 36"s. they're stock 85 springs so they're pretty short. im going rears up front soon because i cant drive it the way it is. so now im going to need to relocate the steering box.

as you can see i have no oil pan clearance
Old 01-22-2014, 11:54 AM
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Sweet! The rufs should do nice thing for you! Looks like you might have to move the steering box forward when you put the RUFs in.

The advantage of using IFS hubs is not for the Tacoma breaks, but to make the whole front axle 3.5" wider than a stock SA without using wheel spacers. Tacoma breaks are an alternative to re drilling FJ40 rotors to make the breaks work with the IFS hubs.

Old thread, but alot of the info is there. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...spacers-59071/

Last edited by rattlewagon; 01-22-2014 at 12:00 PM.
Old 01-22-2014, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rattlewagon
Sweet! The rufs should do nice thing for you! Looks like you might have to move the steering box forward when you put the RUFs in.

The advantage of using IFS hubs is not for the Tacoma breaks, but to make the whole front axle 3.5" wider than a stock SA without using wheel spacers. Tacoma breaks are an alternative to re drilling FJ40 rotors to make the breaks work with the IFS hubs.

Old thread, but alot of the info is there. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...spacers-59071/
yeah, i have to get a relocation plate for the steering box but i want to get the leafs done first, to get most of the work out of the way. i found a set of rear leafs with an 85 housing with a truss for $100, but if hes willing to separate ill just buy the leafs.

hmmm, either way i wont run wheel spacers unless i notice a big difference without them. i just need a daily for a while until i save up for a new car.
Old 02-10-2014, 04:02 PM
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newish tires 31x10.5
Old 02-11-2014, 09:55 PM
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i was going to put on the fj coils but it was gonna start to rain so i just decided to throw on the new tires for a test fit.


i was on the last tire when i noticed the wheels are different, which made me realize that my wheels will work after all. the wheels on the new tires are from an fj80 and they have a conical lug seat but my wheels have a flat lug nut seat and the hole is bigger because if you look at the lug nuts the have about 1/4" of thread that goes inside the wheel before the washer hits the wheel so the lug nut is getting plenty of thread.


so im going to have to swap out the wheels after all. still waiting on leaf springs, steering box relocating plate, shocks, power steering and my brakes...after that it should be done.
Old 03-22-2014, 02:14 AM
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well there has been nary an update in a while so i guess ill do one.

thanks to an a*shole friend of mine it seems that ever time i start to make progress i end up taking one step forward and two steps back .

since the stock springs weren't going to work my friend gave me what may be wagoneer springs but we're not 100% sure.

while it solved the problem of the hi steer hitting the oil pan it over corrected and pushed the axle forward about 3" and lifted it way too much. its sitting about 7" higher in the front than the back. also the steering is now crossed over.


i got some 1" spacers for the front because the tires were about a 1/2" from the rod ends of the steering
the good news is that i have power steering again but at full turn the tire hits the leaf spring so i have to adjust the steering stops.


i gave up on having this thing look stock so im just going to weld the fender back together i got it fairly straightened out


i think i can get all that is listed below done for about $300 depending if i can get some old shocks warrantied

list of things left to do/buy:
rears up front
new battery
bumper
oil change/new filter
new windshield wipers
new side marker
shocks
brake lines (hard lines)
possibly relocate steering box (maybe shorter pitman arm)

things i have but have yet to do:
rear coils
brakes
shock hoops
finish cutting out left over stuff on the frame

Last edited by Sk8rat; 03-22-2014 at 02:16 AM.
Old 03-22-2014, 05:31 PM
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i talked to a guy today and should be picking up some rear leafs from him which will hopefully eliminate the need to move the steering as well as fix the shackle angle but still clear the oil pan

here's a better shot of how far forward the axle is


the angle didn't really change with the wagoneer? springs.


Old 03-22-2014, 07:03 PM
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Are the wagoner springs longer than the other springs you were running? Shackle angle doesnt look horrible? Can you take a leaf out of the spring pack to lower it a bit?

I think your going to have to move the steering box no matter what you do. RUFs will be very similar to the waggy springs.

Last edited by rattlewagon; 03-22-2014 at 07:10 PM.
Old 03-22-2014, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rattlewagon
Are the wagoner springs longer than the other springs you were running? Shackle angle doesnt look horrible? Can you take a leaf out of the spring pack to lower it a bit?

I think your going to have to move the steering box no matter what you do. RUFs will be very similar to the waggy springs.
the stock 85 springs were 45" flat 22.5/22.5

im not sure if they are wagoneer springs but they are 46.5" flat 20.5/26

i think the rears are a little longer, 48" flat? and the center pin is about an inch further back than what i have now but i also am unsure if they will make much difference. worst case scenario i get the rears, cut the hanger off and move it back or my friend has a plate for the u bolts that has the hole for the center pin about an inch back so i could use that if nothing else works.

if the rears move the axle back at least inch i will just get a shorter pitman arm to avoid moving the steering box.

the leaf springs came off this truck
Old 03-23-2014, 09:30 PM
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got the 1st gen rears and a power steering pump from the guy who now owns 4rnnr33's old chop top 4runner. my friends also bought some boomerang shackles from him. if he doesn't end up using them ill probably buy them from him.


and got my hubs


one thing i didn't think about until now is a steering stabilizer. i don't know if i will need one but i would like to have one anyways.
Old 04-08-2014, 04:44 PM
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third tries the charm. got the rears on and it finally sitting good. there's probably about two or three inches of lift and the axle is about back to where it was stock.


31's look to small with the amount of lift it has so i might get some 33's




going to have to cut these off the leafs


still plenty of clearance from the oil pan


my friend is going to make a plate to move the steering box forward
Old 06-09-2014, 09:16 PM
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:15 AM
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need get those springs in rear. keep it coming.


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