1stgen 4runner tire choices?
03-31-2009, 04:11 PM
#1
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1stgen 4runner tire choices?
ive searched and searched and havent found much on tire size info for my 1stgen runner. basically im looking at 33X10.50r15 and 32x11.50r15 km2 bfg mud terrains. i dont have a lift but i might put one on in the future. i also have the factory alloys. my questions are
will they rub at stock height?
will i need to regear?(not sure what mine is, is there a way to check?)
would it really be awful with 33s? for some crazy reason the 33s are 15 bucks cheaper than the 32s(maybe because of width?)
i have a 89 4runner 3vze 5spd sr5. thanks!
will they rub at stock height?
will i need to regear?(not sure what mine is, is there a way to check?)
would it really be awful with 33s? for some crazy reason the 33s are 15 bucks cheaper than the 32s(maybe because of width?)
i have a 89 4runner 3vze 5spd sr5. thanks!
03-31-2009, 04:51 PM
#3
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I think I am going to go with the 33X10.5X15s BFG mud terrainson my 86 w/ the 22RE. Maybe it's a bad idea, but I only will be using them for the trails or posing around town 
. I'll be keeping my street treads on mag wheels for highway use. Everything I've read says you can fit them, maybe even the 33's better as they are more narrow, with only some mild beating of the pinch weld on the front fenders.
Out of curiousity, where are you getting yours and how much are they running you? I've found Sam's Club has them price for $830 out the door with a tire replacement plan and tax before th $70 credit that BFG has going right now on the mud & a/t tire.
. I'll be keeping my street treads on mag wheels for highway use. Everything I've read says you can fit them, maybe even the 33's better as they are more narrow, with only some mild beating of the pinch weld on the front fenders. Out of curiousity, where are you getting yours and how much are they running you? I've found Sam's Club has them price for $830 out the door with a tire replacement plan and tax before th $70 credit that BFG has going right now on the mud & a/t tire.
03-31-2009, 04:57 PM
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im gonna be paying 738 after 70$ mir, for the 33x10.50r15 MT KM2 its at america tire company. thats with warrenty and all their jazz. except im disposing of my tires myself which will save me 10 bucks. km2's are apparently the new BFG mud tire and at only 13 bucks more a tire than AT i think its worth it since i will rarley be able to afford new tires haha. where can i get a sweet bikini top like yours?
03-31-2009, 05:20 PM
#5
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Yeah, I need to pull the trigger on the tires and quit dragging my feet!
My brother bought the bikini top for me from WabFab. Great product-he's a vendor that posts a lot on yotatech (check vendor section) I did see a couple in the for-sale area. Not sure if they're already sold or not.
My brother bought the bikini top for me from WabFab. Great product-he's a vendor that posts a lot on yotatech (check vendor section) I did see a couple in the for-sale area. Not sure if they're already sold or not.
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03-31-2009, 06:29 PM
#9
31s will fit stock...anything bigger will probably rub on a stock truck and be a sluggo.
I took 33s off an 87 with a 2" body lift and it had torn up the fender wells pretty good not to mention the tires a bit.
31s is as far as I'd go without a lift or regearing.
I took 33s off an 87 with a 2" body lift and it had torn up the fender wells pretty good not to mention the tires a bit.
31s is as far as I'd go without a lift or regearing.
03-31-2009, 06:36 PM
#10
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I agree with wabfab , I had 31 on my 88 , they worked fine. I now have 33 X10.50 KM2 , They rubbed at every turn. I installed a 1" body lift and Bj spacers and Now they dont rub. I now have to regear due to it being slower .
04-01-2009, 01:20 AM
#11
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Can you tell me where you were rubbing? Front, rear or both and in what location? What wheels or offset were you using? I'm wondering if I could fit a 32 or 33 with a 9.5" tire.
04-01-2009, 06:07 PM
#12
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Well, although nobody has responded, I did go out and do some investigative work today. I'm fortunate to have a 31" tire in my posession right now.
Here's how it looks on the truck
Looks to be plenty of room. I'm assuming that only when the wheel is at full lock such that the rear-ward side of the wheel/tire are pulled inward to the body (a full left lock for driver's side, or full right lock for passenger's side, as picture) would be where rubbing would be an issue. Here are a few pics:
At the closes point, the tire still passes the "3 finger" test. I have average sized fingers, so that's probably about 2 inches of clearance. So based on this, a 33" tire will be an additional 1 inch toward the fender there. Now as you can see that tire that I was doing the testing on had little tread, but I think that I should still be able to clear a 33", especially after doing some "modification", read, big hammer action, on the pinch weld behind the plastic.
Can anyone point out an obvious issue I'm missing? I did also jack up the wheel to try and replicate a situation where that corner of the truck was taking a significant load due to rough terrain:
Oh yeah, and here's the rims on which I'll be mounting the new (hopefully 33's). Right now they're just 235/75's and look quite anemic.
Thanks,
Kyle
Here's how it looks on the truck
Looks to be plenty of room. I'm assuming that only when the wheel is at full lock such that the rear-ward side of the wheel/tire are pulled inward to the body (a full left lock for driver's side, or full right lock for passenger's side, as picture) would be where rubbing would be an issue. Here are a few pics:
At the closes point, the tire still passes the "3 finger" test. I have average sized fingers, so that's probably about 2 inches of clearance. So based on this, a 33" tire will be an additional 1 inch toward the fender there. Now as you can see that tire that I was doing the testing on had little tread, but I think that I should still be able to clear a 33", especially after doing some "modification", read, big hammer action, on the pinch weld behind the plastic.
Can anyone point out an obvious issue I'm missing? I did also jack up the wheel to try and replicate a situation where that corner of the truck was taking a significant load due to rough terrain:
Oh yeah, and here's the rims on which I'll be mounting the new (hopefully 33's). Right now they're just 235/75's and look quite anemic.
Thanks,
Kyle
Last edited by My99; 04-01-2009 at 06:09 PM.
04-01-2009, 06:57 PM
#14
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Well, the good news is that I will have a spare set of tires & rims for street driving as well as an alternative mode of transportation. I'm mainly doing this for the extra clearance on the trails. Maybe I should compromise and go with a 32" and hope for the best. I just don't see why people swear up and down that a 33" will fit with some hammering on the pinch weld.
I trust what you're saying wabbit, just wish it weren't true!!!
I trust what you're saying wabbit, just wish it weren't true!!!
04-03-2009, 11:50 AM
#16
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i have 31x10.5 BFG ATs on 15x9s with 4" backspacing. this gives me 5" on the outer side, so they stick out past the fender almost 2". my front right will rub the back of the wheelwell when i cut to the right and reverse, like out of a parking space.
if you go to 33s without lift, you will rub a lot and it will make you unhappy. you will need some lift, i recommend the bj spacers and shackles at the back as the cheapest method.
i am waiting to move from 31 to 33s because i cannot afford to regear yet. when i bought my truck, i went from 235/75s to these 31s and the truck is much slower. i don't use 5th gear at all, and i mostly drive in 3rd to stay competitive in traffic.
once you go to 31s, you'll want 4.88s. if you go to 33s you'll really want them, and probly wish for 5.29s.
31x10.5 is a good affordable option, requires no lift, and if you tweak your backspace, you can move the meat to the outside and give it that fatter stance that a 12.5 offers.
also, most people saying you can hammer the well to fit the 33s are talkin about 2nd gens. 1st gens really do need some lift to get 33s mounted with no rub.
i plan to do the bj spacers plus 1" body blocks so i have plenty of room. but i'm not doing it until i have the money to regear first and do it right from the start.
if you go to 33s without lift, you will rub a lot and it will make you unhappy. you will need some lift, i recommend the bj spacers and shackles at the back as the cheapest method.
i am waiting to move from 31 to 33s because i cannot afford to regear yet. when i bought my truck, i went from 235/75s to these 31s and the truck is much slower. i don't use 5th gear at all, and i mostly drive in 3rd to stay competitive in traffic.
once you go to 31s, you'll want 4.88s. if you go to 33s you'll really want them, and probly wish for 5.29s.
31x10.5 is a good affordable option, requires no lift, and if you tweak your backspace, you can move the meat to the outside and give it that fatter stance that a 12.5 offers.
also, most people saying you can hammer the well to fit the 33s are talkin about 2nd gens. 1st gens really do need some lift to get 33s mounted with no rub.
i plan to do the bj spacers plus 1" body blocks so i have plenty of room. but i'm not doing it until i have the money to regear first and do it right from the start.
04-03-2009, 12:16 PM
#17
Registered User
I went ahead and ordered my 31s a couple of days ago. Thanks for the advice. I do think I will be mounting them on my 8 inch mags instead of the less attractive 7" steelies.
04-04-2009, 10:59 AM
#19
Registered User
Please do post. Can you verify even during heavy flex at all steer angles it's working okay? I've just been notified that there is nothing in the warehouse, and BFG, for some reason, doesn't have an ETA on the next production run on these. I may consider the 32s X 11.5, if they'll fit and they can come up with 4. I'm not sure if a 32 X 10.5 isn't made or they just don't carry it.
I'm also not for sure as to if a 32" MT is any taller than a 32" AT.
I'm also not for sure as to if a 32" MT is any taller than a 32" AT.
Last edited by My99; 04-04-2009 at 11:10 AM.
