Numbchux

My build thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...-build-224025/

Details on the swap....

original truck: '87 4Runner. 22RTE, A340H auto trans. 2" blocks under the rear springs, a little extra tension in the torsion bars.



front diff in stock position on the frame.
4Crawler 2" body lift and 2" engine mount spacers
Budbuilt tcase crossmember formed for the 2" lift

Donor truck was a '92 S-10 Blazer, "W" Vin code. CPFI 4.3l V6, and 4L60 (700R4, they changed the designation for '92. '93 got the electronic controls for the 4L60E).

Top shift, Gear-driven Toyota tcase from an '86 4Runner, rear driveshaft from the same truck (auto driveshaft is shorter, as the rear output on the auto trans is further back).

AA bolt-on motor mount adapters in the middle position. AA tcase adapter.







Observations so far. I have not actually started it up yet, but I'm very close. Much of the information on this swap is based on a SAS rig, and other variations. So I ran into a number of things that I hadn't heard of.

So many write-ups talk about moving the whole assembly back a couple inches in the truck. But there's definitely room for the tcase in the stock position and toyota radiator in it's place if you ditch the stock Chevy clutch fan. Which, I prefer an electric fan anyway.....so I already have a bracket made to mount one to the toyota rad.

The 4.3 only has one port for the heater on the engine. the other one went to the radiator in the blazer. One of lower rad hoses from the turbo setup has a smaller port in it that was the turbo return. I saved it as an option for the heater core line. otherwise I'll make some other sort of T fitting to use. haven't decided for sure.

AA says on their website that they have the tooling to make the Downey tcase adapter, which is much thinner than the AA version. I called and asked about it about 6 months ago, and they hadn't actually started making them. Also, with that adapter, the toyota driveshaft won't clear the 700r4 oil pan unless you have dual cases.

With the 2" lift, I still had to pound a bit on the corner of the oil pan to get it to clear the front diff.

Also, since the blazer was Driver's side drop, the oil drain plug is on the wrong side....I'm taking a page out of the marine world. We have one of these on the 351W on my family's MasterCraft, and it works great. I've ordered one for my truck:

it threads into the oil pan in place of the plug, and I'll zip-tie it up out of harms way, and when it comes time for an oil change, I'll cut the zip-tie and run it out to my drain pan.

AA blockhugger headers are in-transit.

I asked on a GM message board, and from all my research, it appears the CPFI system needs at least 60psi of fuel pressure to function. the toyota system operates at 45. So I got a universal in-line pump rated to 85. I'll just pull the fuel through the existing pump.


the oil cooler and drain kit should be here in a week. Hoping to turn the key within a couple days of that.

socal85sas

how is this swap coming for you? I am near complete with mine. I also am using the cpi motor, mine is from a 93 blazer. Although i am going the aa bellhousing and toyota 5 speed route. Ill likely start my write up today.

bigcounttry

do you have any pics or mesurements on the motor mounts? i am putting 4.3 out of a 93 1500 pickup in a 86 toyota pickup and was planning on building my own mounts, i got the materiel to do it just no specs.

Numbchux

I haven't spent a minute on it since that post was made. Winter's hit hard here (over 70" of snowfall so far this year), and my work shelter is barely shelter....

No, no measurements. If you're planning on making your own, just test-fit, and fab as needed.



costs....

2" body lift. 4crawler.com $75.00
engine mount spacers. 4crawler.com $99.00
tcase xmember budbuilt.com $199.00
4.3 motor mount adapters advanceadapters.com $127.65
headers advanceadapters.com $207.00
tcase adapter - 700r4 advanceadapters.com $475.00
fuel lines, Dorman rockauto $36.79
intake mani gasket, ACDelco rockauto $10.19
timing set rockauto $62.79
water pump $39.79


total $1,332.21

bigcounttry

ok thank you

bigarms23

if you have an sas ring with 5inch springs you don't need the bl well i didn't and you can save more if you make your own motor mounts

bigcounttry

when i get my motor in place do i have to run headers or can you run stock manifolds

bigarms23

you can run stock 2wd manifold on the 4wd cpiv6 but its easier just to run headers because they give you better clearence on the driverside with the frame and steering shaft

Numbchux

maybe start your own thread for questions like this?

2DoorRunner

Bummer about the weather! I love the snow, but not when i dont have a truck to drive in it!

And thanks for not giving out motor mount dimentions. I have them. But there is no way im giving out dimentions, so that people can avoid buying stuff from the company that helped me so much and delt with all my stupid questions

Exactly! Or ever better. Search I know for a fact me and another guy RECENTLY talked about this in our threads lol.

Numbchux

Good point. the R&D to make motor mount adapters like the ones they sell would be pretty in-depth (for those that aren't aware, the AA adapters are the same for the 4.3 and 350 V8). And the Toyota engine swap guide they sent me with my tcase and motor mount adapters was worth paying extra for!



I happened to be outside today with my camera handy....so I took a pic of my "workshop"


the 4runner is under the canopy. And there's just gravel under the snow. Also, we've had a couple days of almost 40* weather, so the snow on my subarus has melted a LOT.

Also, the Ziptie rally team has been keeping me very busy. BUT, next week we leave for our next event (100 acre wood in central Missouri), and once we get back from that, we have some time off, and the weather will likely be a bit better (knock on wood). So hopefully, some progress, for real this time....

3uzfte

Dang, another fellow Minnesotan stuck due to winter. I like the build, too bad you couldn't keep turn the boost up a little bit before you yanked the motor. The 4.3 is a good motor, just prone to intake leaks, I owned a 96' Blazer and a 00' Envoy, both with the Vortec 4.3/4L60E combos.

What's the story with the Subaru's?

Numbchux

Spent a couple hours every day for the last few days tinkering on it.

Cut the hole in the tunnel for the tcase shifter and got it bolted on. Also bolted the blockoff plate down in the adapter for the tcase shifter (the AA adapter has provision for forward-shift linkage).

Started modifying the stock AT shifter for my A340H. the shifter is on the opposite side of the trans for the 4L60, but with the help of a torch and bench vise, I got that fixed up. Just have to do some measuring and testing to see how long the arm has to be off the shifter to get the right amount of travel.

Got the remote oil filter assembly bolted to the inner fender, and the lines clamped back down on the motor side. Have to order the adapters so I can have decent hose barbs for a universal oil cooler.



As for the subarus. I've got a pair of XT6s, the '89 was in awesome shape, until some dumb ho pulled out in front of me, now it's all smashed to pieces. The '88 was a total rust bucket, so when the transmission failed (there's a reason why XT6s were the only 6-cylinder subarus available with a manual) last summer, I parted it out, and will be using the body parts to fix the '89 this year, and hopefully sell it.

The snow came too early this year to have the '88 hauled off. As soon as things thaw out, it'll be off for scrap.

Numbchux

Shifter mods. the Toyota shifter had PRND21, and a button for 3rd (O/D lockout). But the 700R4 has PRND321, so I needed to add another notch, as I'll probably want to select 1st for wheeling.

A few minutes with the dremel (didn't have a small enough grinding bit, so I did it with a cutoff wheel.....it'll do) and I added another notch, and clearanced the base so the shifter can travel a bit further:




I'll have to modify the plastic surround a bit to match, and I might cut off the bracketry for the old tcase linkage. I'm also going to cut a piece of plastic to block off where the old tcase shifter was, and mount some switches there.


Next is lengthening the shifter on the other end (the pivot is closer to the passenger side of the truck, so when modified to reach to the other side of the trans, it'll have to be lengthened). And then taking a bunch of measurements to see just how long it should stick down so it travels just the right distance for each gear.

Numbchux

So after tinkering on this thing a bit every day this week, I went out and test-fitted stuff a couple days ago, and realized that I had the linkage mirrored. A straight pushrod like the stock setup would not work right (well, it might, but it would be backwards).

I started looking around for other options, I still want to use the Toyota shifter, to keep the interior as stockish as possible. So I started looking at universal shifters for ideas, and found that you can buy the shifter cable separate from the B&M shifter kit. So, I ordered one. Then its just a matter of a couple cable brackets, shouldn't be too hard.


Also ordered the fittings and such for all my lines. Thanks to 2doorrunner for the idea on the adapters, but instead of buying those adapters for almost $10 each, I bought the compression fittings and hose barbs separately from www.fittingsandadapters.com for about $3 a pair. I got fittings for both fuel lines at the engine, and the one at the tank. I also got 2 fittings for the transmission cooler lines, and the oil cooler lines.

And a 6-place fuse block, and 5 nice little rocker switches from www.waytekwire.com. I'm going to put the fuse block near the ECU, and the switches where the old tcase shifter was. The 6 fuses will be for the Fuel-Injection, Radiator fan, On-Board Air (saved the GM compressor), Front bumper lights, roof lights, and rock lights. Obviously the 5 switches are for all but the FI, which will be controlled by the ignition switch like stock. The radiator fan will just be manually controlled for now, but before long I'll put a switch inline in the radiator hose and the switch will just be a manual override for water crossings.


And, I ordered a trans temp gauge and install kit. From what I've read, these 700R4s are great, until they overheat, and then the fail.....


I've decided to get the headers ceramic coated. I want to make sure I don't cook the spark plug wires, brake lines, and especially the knock sensor wire on the passenger side (the stock plug on it doesn't fit with these headers....the wire will be very close).




The hitch I'm running into. The oil dipstick tube is severely rusted, and in moving it around to get the headers in and out a couple times, it's failing. I cannot find another one. There are a few '96+ ones on ebay, but I'm not sure if it'll work on this '92. Anybody have any ideas?

bigarms23

try getting a cpi dipstick through www.rockauto.com they might have one

Numbchux

first place I looked. They don't have them listed for any model 4.3

Numbchux

Now for it to start nickel-and-dime-ing me to death.....


compression fitting to hose-barb adapters. I will use these for all the steel lines (left to right. 3/8 pair for Transmission cooler, 1/2 pair for oil cooler, and 3 5/16s for fuel lines. The return line on the tank is the right size, also, the 3/8 compression to 1/4 female NPT for the last one is backordered)

Also, transmission temperature gauge. Also got a drain plug kit and installed it and the sender in the pan.

And a B&M shifter cable. This should drastically simplify my linkage situation.

And a 6-position fuse block and one of the neat little rocker switches

Numbchux

Almost all the adapters installed on the lines. the "backordered" compression fitting arrived the next day (just came from a different warehouse).



longer ones are for the transmission cooler. shorter indifividual ones are for the fuel system, and the 2 sharing a flange are for the oil cooler

Numbchux

Got the shifter cable mounted to the trans and installed in the truck.

also:



don't worry. no visible modifications. I can still return it to stock.