HawkStrong16

Diesel need to crank pretty fast to fire, that could also be part of your problem. Try hooking your batteries up in parallel, and maybe a new/rebuilt starter. Also make sure your batteries are fully charged.
Adjust the valves to spec and make sure everything is timed right.

Good luck! I've been following along, the swap looks good!

pyrojoe22

Batteries fully charged, hooked up in parallel still, adjusted the valves, they were tight as tight can be. Now we're cranking and still no pop on ether even. Noticed the turbo AND the exhaust are sucking air? 180 degrees off timing??

PowerstrokeJoe

You are either 180 out or a couple of teeth off. The cam lobes on #1 should be pointing up when at tdc on the compression stroke. My engine did the same thing and I had it 1 tooth off on the timing. Did you remove the harmonic balancer? If you did and didn't mark which way it came off its entirely possible it got put on backward. You have to have a minimum of 200 psi compressioon to start it.

PowerstrokeJoe

Hey Joe I don't know if this will help but here is a video of how my car turns over cold. I have a 950 CCA battery. It also has a cold start up in it as well. I'll see if I can get this youtube thing to work.

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1z6TlFBKWY&feature=player_embedded[/YOUTUBE]

pyrojoe22

Joe, you read my mind. That's what I was just searching for, and I did take a vid of mine cranking. My starter finally went wurr wurr click, wurr wurr click, then quit spinning and it is now dead and will make a great paper weight for any mercedes enthusiast. I'll start er off at $100!!!

But in all seriousness, well... Tell me what you think

http://youtu.be/C-mPiLZWAtk

PowerstrokeJoe

Thats turning over wayyy too slow! The starter is definitely toast. It sounds like it has compression though. Have you tried turning it with a ratchet to feel the compression?

pyrojoe22

Well, capped off the night by pulling the injectors all back out and distributing 1 quart of Marvel Mystery amongst the 5 injector holes. Hand cranked the engine over a bit and it's already feeling 20 times better compression wise. I think I even heard a little "poof" after one of the compression strokes. Waiting on a good starter now. At least I can get a free new one from Pick N Pull when they get another car in. I'll let that Marvel soak into the rings for a week and hopefully that'll loosen em up if they're stuck, and at least replenish them with oil if that's all they needed. Should make for a nice smokey first start up. Gonna try to find the bottom of the garage tomorrow so we can walk in there again, and address a few odds and ends on the motor while it's sitting there (found some nuts that we forgot to put back on the cam towers ). My compression tester wouldn't fit the engine so I'll have to go rent one. I had a bad water leak from the thermostat housing where it mates to the head even though I just put a new gasket on, so I'll try to get that fixed. We were really freaking out cus we thought it was coming out of the timing chain tensioner. Other than that, feel free to chime in with ideas for why she won't fire. I'm hoping it's just the POS starter and maybe the lack of oil throughout the engine since it hasn't gotten slung around yet and the pistons are still dry. My injector lines all looked good after priming, they all had diesel feeding thru them.

HawkStrong16

If its always cranked like that. Then I say its probably the starter. My 6.2L needs about 400RPM to start(don't start bashing the 6.2L please)

pyrojoe22

What ya do is get an injection pump off a military hummer 6.2L and that'll give you up to 100 hp. My boss did it to his and he loved it.

I still have blow by even at the few RPM I was spinning, which was scary, but it definitely got better after the valve adjustment.

PowerstrokeJoe

Joe it sounds like you are on the right track! Is it still sucking through the hot side of the turbo?

Hawk there isn't anything wrong with the 6.2 they are a darn good engine!

HawkStrong16

My truck already has the military spec engine. All the 3/4HD and 1 tons came with the J code intake(non egr) and turned up pump(same as military only 12V not 24V). However I need a new pump and injectors as it smokes pretty bad, lol.

You are one of the few people outside of Diesel Place forums that knows the truth! haha. Thanks, I've been bashed before on my ownership/love of the 6.2L

Back to topic. I'd say you're on the right track. Get her spinning nice and fast and see what kind of compression numbers you've got. Hopefully you get it started!

pyrojoe22

Well the starter won't budge now. I have half a mind to rip it apart and try to fix it, and the other half of my mind says just focus on school till the other starter comes. So I can't feel if it's sucking air through the exhaust or not.

aviator

too bad those big block 6.2/6.5s won't fit in the front of our trucks like a 5.0 will...

dsal_86Yota

The 6.2L is a workhorse. I'm still a fan of the 12 valve 5.9L Cummins. Course back when the 6.2L came out GM trucks looked better then the early 90's Dodges. I know a guy who has a 92 Chevy with 6.2L. Its a good rig, great for towing. Has over 250000 on it. Had a buddy in college that bought his 90 Dodge with Cummins, it was a bada$$, great hauling flat bed car hauler and gooseneck horse trailer. Had over 300000. His grandfather got it brand new in 1990. Will say Cummins was better offroad, hunting trails in mountains. Both good trucks

pyrojoe22

Well, I ripped my starter apart. It's definitely shot. There's some sever grooves in the copper part that the brushes rub against. The entire internal part of the starter was covered in dirt and dirty grease. I cleaned everything out and tried to shine up all the electrical connectors. I tested it on the ground and it spun real good, but once I put it back on the motor it went back to barely spinning and intermittently stopping. I'll just have to get a good starter. At least the engine appears to be making a lot healthier noises when I crank it now, after putting Marvel in it. The exhaust was really hard to feel by myself while cranking it, but it appeared to be doing less sucking and more blowing now, so hopefully once I get it spinning at the correct speed, it'll correct that and just blow exhaust out. My timing all appears to be SPOT on.

aviator

If you've got a bad commutator then it 'll never work right... you might try to send it out to a rebuilder for a maybe cheaper alternative to a new one...

I suggest taking it apart and baking it in the oven for a few hrs at 300*F and trying again but that might get you kicked out of the house for good lol...

pyrojoe22

Lol, if I can herculine half my truck in the house I think I'll be good

Ripped my starter apart again. It's definitely shot. If anyone has a spare one they wouldn't mind letting me borrow let me know. It's $90 for a new one at O Reillys. I just need the Mercedes starter to get my engine started and tuned up before I commit to buying the adapter kit. After that, I'll use my Toyota starter,

pyrojoe22

Been studying all weekend but did get the chance to FINALLY conquer my valve lash on my 22R last night. Been dreading and fearing this for years, but after ripping this diesel apart, it's given me a lot of confidence and I'm no longer afraid of my 22R. Pulled the valve cover off, and what a breeze it was to adjust the valves. Simple 12mm nut and flat head screw. Makes me sad that I'm swapping this for the Merc. You only have to rotate the engine twice versus 10 times for the Merc to adjust the valves. They are supposed to be adjusted every 15k miles on my truck. I haven't done it in the 60k miles I've had the truck, but figured since my compressions numbers plummeted, I'd give it a try. They were all really tight, and I noticed a little regained power. I'll get new compression numbers when all my tests are done after Wednesday.

Found out my caster is WAY off on the front axle. I'll have to go back and edit my post when I get it corrected. Not sure why I didn't even ask one person or research it. Very bad assumption on my part. It's going to Firestone on Friday to get my alignment specs all printed out so I can figure out how to shim the front end. And I'll know how good I did on the rear. They did say they'd give me specs for free since I have a lifetime alignment

TinMan

Yeah man, valve lash on the 22r's are supper easy. It takes longer to remove the vac lines and valve cover than it does to do the valve lash adjustment.

Sorry to hear about the castor angle. You get it reset though. Just a little more cutting and welding.

pyrojoe22

Hey guys! I just got out of a Thermo lecture and we discussed how water is incompressible and I figure it out! To figure out if you have compression, just pour some water in your cylinders and try to turn it over! JUST KIDDING!