theMonch

Bump...Any Ideas on this COR issue?

dntsdad

Do you have a complete donor? If so use the 3.4 relay. Its on the bottom of the fuse panel on the drivers side under the column.

If not, just go to Bestbuy, go to the back and grab a regular Bosch style relay.

Wire it like this.


here is the diagram from the EWD explaining what going on.


This is shot of the plug. Behind the glovebox, above the ECM. The blue wire GOES TO THE FUEL PUMP.



Demonkid also did a write up on using a relay from Autozone here.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-howto-213623/

theMonch

Thanks dntsdad I did come across that info for using the 3.4 COR (or any standard bosch). I really want to try and retain the 3.0 COR and wiring.

After going back over the the EWD's last night I am fairly certain that I can just connect the Grn form 3.0 body harness to the Grn/Yel (FC) from the 3.4 ECM should work properly.

This will pull the COR to ground and allow the circuit to close whenever the ECM commands it. I will post up my results later this afternoon.

theMonch

Well I just hooked it up like I mentioned in previous post and it works perfectly. I don't know why I was overthinking this one. I guess that alll of the problems that I have read others having with this I just couldn't believe how simple it is.

Now the COR works as factory specs. It is closed while cranking by the starter relay and then is subsequently closed while running by the ECM. Now the ECM can open (shut off) the circuit when the engine is not running, like in an accident situation where the ignition might still be on, but you really don't want the fuel pump going.

This is the exact way it was intended to work stock, but in the 3.0 application the detection of an engine runnning situation is done by the VAF meter not the ECM like the 3.4 does.

theMonch

Picked her up last night from the exhaust guy and I couldn't be happier. I had them fab everything up from the header to the muffler. I used a Random Technology 4" High flow barrel type catalytic converter and the rest of it is all 2.5" pipe. He was able to snake the passenger side crossover between the trans and driveshaft.

The weak spot in the whole thing is probably that I had them band-clamp the downpipes to the headers so I can get them out easily enough later to do starter, etc. I'll have to see if this will hold up after time.

The overall sound is a bit "ricey" for me and I plan to change the muffler later on down the road. I'll post up a video with sound when I get a chance in the next few days. But for now here are a few picts.

theMonch

And a couple more of exhaust.

theMonch

This is the scoop I decided to go with. It is a replica of the 2005-up Tacoma/4Runner scoop that is attached via 3M double-sided tape (I screwed it in as well) If fits really close without any bodylift, but I might decide to do a 1/2" lift down the road for extra breathing room.

theMonch

Here's the final engine compartment and a shot of the underside of the hood. I had to cut the entire center support out as well as a piece of the top support (on the S/C snout side). The entire hole is larger than it needed to be on the throttle body side, but I knew the scoop I was using would cover it up. I'll pretty up the edge once I know I won't have to trim any more out later, as well as paint the entire underside.

camo31_10.50

man....that's PURE SEX right there.

amen to you dude...you're another one of my hero's lmfao

osucycler

Where did you pick up the scoop from? Everything looks really good!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Have you heard of photobucket? or using the image gallery to host your pics --this link has a how to on doing it:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f122...osting-220205/

Awesome build but the pic attachment sucks
You brought new life to an old truck...I used to live in Buffalo, I take it that this won't be your winter driver because of the salt

theMonch

Thanks, the scoop can be found on eBay. Do a search for "TOYOTA TACOMA 05-10 FACTORY STYLE HOOD SCOOP" and you'll see it.

theMonch

I considered PB, but the inline embedded picts ensures that they will still be there in the future. You have no idea how many thread I came across that had pertinent info that referenced a pict that had a dead link to PB. I know the quality is poor, but atleast they be there next year.

This has been my DD winter and summer for 17 years. You just have to hose it off frequently in the winter to keep the salt off and it's no big deal. The paint has seen about 12-13 winters.

theMonch

Thanks, it definetly was an undertaking, but with the proper research and prep it wasn't that dificult at all.

dntsdad

Most ISPs allow you to have server space. I have Comcast and they give me 2GB with my paid account. When I had ATT DSL, they gave me 1gb I think. I upload everything to there via a free FTP program that I picked up. Nice as well cause it doesnt have to be pictures. Sometimes I will throw an application up there for a friend to download, or I can post a PDF here and there if needed.

mbomberz1

Come on lets hear this thing! More video!!

theMonch

It's coming. I am about 375 miles into the 500 mile break in on the URD stage 3 clutch. Once I'm clear of this I'll take some "having fun" videos. Probably another week or so.

theMonch

Even though I used to have HID conversion housings and bulbs before the swap, I decided to upgrade then to true projectors that required disassembling the housings and have CCFL "angel eye" rings aroung the projector. I wired the CCFL rings into the parking lights, so they come on with the markers. I also painted the interior of the housings with semi-gloss black to cut down on reflection from the projectors for a real even beam.

Here is what they look like with the CCFL's on.
https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?a...ictureid=13501
Here's the low beam cutoff
https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?a...ictureid=13502
Here's the high beam cutoff
https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?a...ictureid=13503

The high beams are an electro-magnetic shutter that opens up when triggered through the high beam switch.

I really like the way that they came out. They perform excellent.

Greg_Canada

NIce work dude, what is the brand / model of the housings you got? Looks killer.

theMonch

Thanks, they are from eBay from a few years ago. They are generic China stuff, so they didn't have a brand/parn number, just the "#1 bestest light box thingy" typical writing on them. You find find similar ones on eBay to this day. Just do a search for "6054 projector" or "6054 conversion" and you'll get some hits.

If I went with new ones I would probably go with these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

It would be pretty cool to have them all black until the projectors come on, kind of like built in blackouts.