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Old 02-01-2008, 09:00 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Elvota View Post
Oh... I didn't mean just move the needle. Physically pull it off the pin and replace it at the correct reading. That should fix it.
That's what I did, but the tach doesn't ever move, as soon as the key is on, it jumps to one spot, and it never moves again till the key is turned off.
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:31 PM   #52 (permalink)
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on the way to drop rob off, he reminded me athat we didn't hook up the body ground yet, we just stufed the battery in to fire it up, tomorrow, we will hook up the body grounds and build a battery tray when I get off work, hopefully that takes care of that.
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:49 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Also got the exhaust buttoned up.

had to move the front o2 sensor over, it was hitting the frame


just attached the factory t100 downpipe to the exhaust that was already under the truck


The factory o2 bung for the 3.0 is now where the rear o2 will reside, but it is gonna have the bypass box, it will stay there for the heater though.


one more shot
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Old 02-02-2008, 08:27 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Got the battery tray made, wound up haveing a plugged injector, that is what was setting the p1300 ignitor code, good thing we had 6 spares off the junk 3.4. Still has a high idle, gonna go hook up the rear o2 heater and it still needs an air filter and the wiring finished up. we are gonna go chop up the hood so we can put it back on too.
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:28 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Idles still way high, and I hooked up the rear o2 sensor bypass that elvota did, and now it is setting the p1300 again. Elvota, which wire colors did you hook up to? and which were the heater wires?

Also, got the tach fixed, the wire in the dash harness changed color somewhere, so once I ohmed the right wire and hooked it up, the tach now works.
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:57 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Idles still way high, and I hooked up the rear o2 sensor bypass that elvota did, and now it is setting the p1300 again. Elvota, which wire colors did you hook up to? and which were the heater wires?
If you're getting high idle, make sure you check your vacuum lines. Odds are you have one that's got a crack or isn't connected.

This is for the NGK/NTK O2 sensors that I used in mine. Hope they help: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/...t_11-16-04.pdf
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Old 02-02-2008, 10:04 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Idles still way high, and I hooked up the rear o2 sensor bypass that elvota did, and now it is setting the p1300 again. Elvota, which wire colors did you hook up to? and which were the heater wires?
Wiring colors could be different.... but I spliced into red (from OX2 pin at ECM) and brown (ground for O2). Heater wires were R-W (from HT2 pin on ECM) and W-L provides the 12v to the O2 sensor. R-W and W-L were left unmolested and connected to the sensor.

I don't see why a bad secondary O2 would effect idle. That O2 only checks the cats performance. If below par, it pops up a code. You could try unplugging to O2 completely and see if that changes anything. My bet is it wont.... besides generating another code.

My 3.4 idles pretty high until it warms up... that's not what you are experiencing, correct?
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Old 02-02-2008, 10:29 PM   #58 (permalink)
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I think I spliced it in wrong, the rear o2 sensor is the only one that didn't have a plug, somehow it got cut off. it idles that high even when it warms up. I went and drove it around the block, and it was at operating temp, and was still high.
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Old 02-02-2008, 10:36 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Hey Elvota, where did you get your air filter and adapters? Rayl82 needs one.

Battery Tray


My Chit


The hole in the hood was alot smaller than I expected





just because
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:03 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Hey Elvota, where did you get your air filter and adapters? Rayl82 needs one.
I went here:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Se...Words=EAAU3051

Part number EAAU3051 in case link doesn't work.

I liked the Amsoil product as there is no oil to mess up the MAF. Plus it's got chrome ends.

Take a look at this engine pic for reference:



I got a blue "silicone" type adapter from AutoZone and then a small section of the ricer chrome intake tube. On the intake side of the MAF there was a small ridge designed to hold on to the factory intake. I simply ground off most of this ridge, and then attached the blue coupler/ chrome pipe/ air filter in that order. I brought the filter and MAF into AutoZone to see what I needed.

I also built a bracket to support the assembly and mounted that from the inner fender to the two holes under the MAF.

The rest of the intake is all OEM. Seems to work well... at least I haven't had any issues yet.

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The hole in the hood was alot smaller than I expected.
Nice that you were able to keep the hood hole so small. I have enlarged mine slightly. You'll see when you start driving it (especially on the trails) that the motor moves quite a bit and my intake started to rub. Just keep an eye on it and enlarge if necessary.

About your code and high idle...

Do you have a way to get a laptop watching your OBD port? I got a pretty cheap interface here:

http://www.scantool.net/products/pro...products_id=12

It's only $35 if you don't get the box. Comes with free software but more can be downloaded. They are made right here in Phoenix, AZ... so maybe you could pick one up or shipping is one day. Would give you more info on your code/ idle issue with all sorts of real time monitor data.

One reason this interface is so cheap is that it doesn't read all Toyota OBD platforms... so make sure you get the specific one for your year motor.

If mine is compatible with your year 3.4, you are welcome to drive over and we can check it out. Or maybe I can come by there if that makes more sense. Just let me know.
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Old 02-03-2008, 07:16 AM   #61 (permalink)
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well, I'm going to Tucson today, and won't be back until tomorrow night, so I can finally take a break from this.
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Old 02-03-2008, 09:26 AM   #62 (permalink)
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no truck all weekend wife wont like that
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85 Runner buggy in the works...
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:20 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Took it to work today, ran good down the freeway, except the engine light on with the p1300, and the 1800 rpm @ idle. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary at work, ran out of time and came home.

Tested the ignitor again, everything tested good, I thought maybe that was the cause of the high idle. So I went back to the high idle, since we had another 3.4, I took the idle control valve off the 1st throttle body and switched them.



Fired it up and it was actually idleing @ 900rpm. Then the p1300 didn't set again yet, I think it was freaking out the ecm because of how high the idle was, it didn't know what to do.

So rayl82 is out on a test drive, and I still have some wiring to button up, and I need to lengthen the wires on the trans switches so they reach the plugs, and I need to find the wires for the evap componetnts, but he will probably be able to drive it home tonight, and I will finish up the small things in a few days.

We'll see......
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Old 02-05-2008, 06:28 PM   #64 (permalink)
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wow, yall are awesome
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Old 02-08-2008, 04:36 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Smile failed emo

So i failed emissions today forgot to put the cat in the system and had a missing charcoal line it has been plugged previous years but with all the other 3.slo vacuum lines removed they noticed it... guess I'll have to rout that to somewere they cant see.

on another note my truck is now a 97' according to emissions right? they should just plug into the obd2 connector and be done with it right? I told the guy when he asked what year it was "its a 97' engine in an 89' 4runner on an 85' 4runner frame." i thing he thought i was joking well I've got 60 days to re-test.
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85 Runner buggy in the works...
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Old 02-09-2008, 11:34 AM   #66 (permalink)
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As I understand it here, the ECU is what determines the year. But maybe state laws vary on that.
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Old 02-10-2008, 10:59 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Lightbulb engine light returns!

the engine light has returned, i had auto zone reset it but the codes set were
p0171
p0136
p0136 set twice?
p0450

the last one p0450 is the evap code, i cant find the evap plug to connect it
the p0171 is the igniter isn't it? and it may be set because of the other codes. does anyone know were the evap plugs are on a 97' Tacoma?

jason4x4 is sick with the flu so i don't want to bother him...
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85 Runner buggy in the works...
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Old 02-10-2008, 11:43 AM   #68 (permalink)
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http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/..._Trouble_Codes

P0136 02 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 (that's the rear O2 sensor)

P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1

P0450 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch

Not sure what you mean by "evap plugs"?
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Old 02-10-2008, 04:33 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
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P0136 02 Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1

P0450 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch
Hope these help.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf cip0136.pdf (6.7 KB, 28 views)
File Type: pdf cip0171p.pdf (12.4 KB, 25 views)
File Type: pdf cip0450.pdf (18.3 KB, 17 views)