Lysmachia's CAB/Engine Swap for Tippy
02-20-2009, 06:57 AM
#61
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My expirience was the 3.0 alternator will not fit. Soon after my swap I had an unfortunate incident with a poorly installed battery tray (my bad!) and my battery killed my alternator. Having the 3.0 one laying around I did all I could to make it fit - - but with the tension side tab slightly different I could not get it to tension on the belt....
YMMV.
YMMV.
02-20-2009, 07:37 PM
#62
Contributing Member
Post #42 in my thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...85/index2.html
The alternators will swap with some minor modifications. I also wanted to keep my upgraded 3.0 alt after I put in the 3.4.
I have had zero alternator problems since the swap.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...85/index2.html
The alternators will swap with some minor modifications. I also wanted to keep my upgraded 3.0 alt after I put in the 3.4.
I have had zero alternator problems since the swap.
02-23-2009, 08:41 PM
#67
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Thread Starter
Puhlease. He had to BEG to be demoted. SERIOUSLY! He was too busy to mod. We get that. But we'd like him back!
That's what I keep telling myself *wink*
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OK for the record. My engine is a 2007 Auto from a 4runner. So I don't have to re-drill the oil dip-stick. But I do still have to tap the oil pan:
1) I have an oilpan for the swap. It is correct and from ORS
2) I do have to tap the last part. I have checked with buddies. I guess I need the 1/4" x 1/8th npt. Anyone in c-rado with that. If so great! If not We'll get if for all the c-rado swapp gang (MrDoug etc). Besides. We all know ~tc~ will have to do a swap next year. Yikes I hate saying that. Why you all think we are doing Tippy's now!
I was told to redo the waterpump and timing belt. OK. Waterpump on an engine at 137K? Timing belt I will do for sure
Gaskets. I was told to redo gaskets. But that is kinda vague...
******************************
OK for the record. My engine is a 2007 Auto from a 4runner. So I don't have to re-drill the oil dip-stick. But I do still have to tap the oil pan:
1) I have an oilpan for the swap. It is correct and from ORS
2) I do have to tap the last part. I have checked with buddies. I guess I need the 1/4" x 1/8th npt. Anyone in c-rado with that. If so great! If not We'll get if for all the c-rado swapp gang (MrDoug etc). Besides. We all know ~tc~ will have to do a swap next year. Yikes I hate saying that. Why you all think we are doing Tippy's now!
I was told to redo the waterpump and timing belt. OK. Waterpump on an engine at 137K? Timing belt I will do for sure
Gaskets. I was told to redo gaskets. But that is kinda vague...
Last edited by Lysmachia; 02-23-2009 at 09:03 PM.
02-23-2009, 09:03 PM
#68
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Thread Starter
With regards to the oil dip stick tap: I do have to tap the last part. I have checked with buddies. I guess I need the 1/4" x 1/8th npt. Anyone in c-rado with that. (Brian TheFatKid???) Because none of us up north have it. If so great! If not We'll get if for all the c-rado swapp gang (MrDoug etc). Besides. We all know ~tc~ will have to do a swap next year. Yikes I hate saying that. Why you all think we are doing Tippy's now!
Once we tap that... I am gonna re-do timing belt. I guess I should to water-pump but at 87K I am not too worried. Thoughts/
Oh and Brian. I was told by Jacob (BoulderToyota) I gotta do ALL Gaskets. I feel like an idiot. ALL????
Once we tap that... I am gonna re-do timing belt. I guess I should to water-pump but at 87K I am not too worried. Thoughts/
Oh and Brian. I was told by Jacob (BoulderToyota) I gotta do ALL Gaskets. I feel like an idiot. ALL????
02-23-2009, 09:25 PM
#70
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02-24-2009, 06:24 AM
#72
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that's 1/4" by 18 npt according to one of the docs on ORS site, but I'm wondering if that specific size/thread pitch is needed now. I see in Elvota's thread that he used a 10x1.5 mm tap. I'm thinking that if the end goal is to simply plug the hole, how you go about doing it (ie. which thread pitch) doesn't really matter as long as it plugs the hole and stays sealed. Anybody else have some input here?
And I think you meant 87k in the above post, not 187k...
And I think you meant 87k in the above post, not 187k...
Last edited by mrdoug; 02-24-2009 at 06:25 AM.
02-24-2009, 06:58 AM
#73
Contributing Member
that's 1/4" by 18 npt according to one of the docs on ORS site, but I'm wondering if that specific size/thread pitch is needed now. I see in Elvota's thread that he used a 10x1.5 mm tap. I'm thinking that if the end goal is to simply plug the hole, how you go about doing it (ie. which thread pitch) doesn't really matter as long as it plugs the hole and stays sealed. Anybody else have some input here?
...
...
02-24-2009, 12:06 PM
#74
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Dale, what did you use to plug that hole after the dipstick is moved? Just a random bolt with some RTV and/or locktight? I'm trying to help Molly (and prep for my own swap). She ahs a pre 2000 block, so it already has a plug to be knocked out, I was trying to figure out if that plug is already threaded and get's put back in the other hole? or if it get's tossed and some other random bolt get's put back in it's place.
Taping and plugging it from the outside the block is kind of a given as that makes the most sense for re-sealing it in the future if there's a problem.
Taping and plugging it from the outside the block is kind of a given as that makes the most sense for re-sealing it in the future if there's a problem.
Last edited by mrdoug; 02-24-2009 at 12:08 PM.
02-24-2009, 01:28 PM
#75
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Dale, what did you use to plug that hole after the dipstick is moved? Just a random bolt with some RTV and/or locktight? I'm trying to help Molly (and prep for my own swap). She ahs a pre 2000 block, so it already has a plug to be knocked out, I was trying to figure out if that plug is already threaded and get's put back in the other hole? or if it get's tossed and some other random bolt get's put back in it's place.
Taping and plugging it from the outside the block is kind of a given as that makes the most sense for re-sealing it in the future if there's a problem.
Taping and plugging it from the outside the block is kind of a given as that makes the most sense for re-sealing it in the future if there's a problem.
02-24-2009, 04:47 PM
#76
Contributing Member
Dale, what did you use to plug that hole after the dipstick is moved? Just a random bolt with some RTV and/or locktight? I'm trying to help Molly (and prep for my own swap). She ahs a pre 2000 block, so it already has a plug to be knocked out, I was trying to figure out if that plug is already threaded and get's put back in the other hole? or if it get's tossed and some other random bolt get's put back in it's place.
Taping and plugging it from the outside the block is kind of a given as that makes the most sense for re-sealing it in the future if there's a problem.
Taping and plugging it from the outside the block is kind of a given as that makes the most sense for re-sealing it in the future if there's a problem.
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-24-2009 at 04:58 PM.
02-25-2009, 04:50 PM
#77
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the info guys. MrDoug is helping me with my swap here and then Troy and I will be helping him with his swap maybe late summer? Mt_Goat and Elvota's write-ups have been invaluable for us!
04-30-2009, 01:13 PM
#80
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Thread Starter
Due to low $$ and no need for an extra rig (Tippy) this has taken forever. Sorry guys...
So I am working on the 3.4 on the engine stand that MrDoug so generously let us borrow.
I drained the oil and took off the oil pan. Then after talking to MrDoug, I threw the oil pan I had just removed back on, sealed extra hoses and degreased. Not that it did much. But hey I wanted to have it be better than it was.
Everything looks damned good on this engine. I am letting it dry then I will get the oil pan back off, and finish taking off the fan and the crank shaft pulley.
Troy got me the timing belt - gonna look at the idler and other pulleys when I get them off. At 77K I doubt they need replacement but we'll see.
Again the plan is to drop this into tippy Saturday so at least it is out of the way.
So I am working on the 3.4 on the engine stand that MrDoug so generously let us borrow.
I drained the oil and took off the oil pan. Then after talking to MrDoug, I threw the oil pan I had just removed back on, sealed extra hoses and degreased. Not that it did much. But hey I wanted to have it be better than it was.
Everything looks damned good on this engine. I am letting it dry then I will get the oil pan back off, and finish taking off the fan and the crank shaft pulley.
Troy got me the timing belt - gonna look at the idler and other pulleys when I get them off. At 77K I doubt they need replacement but we'll see.
Again the plan is to drop this into tippy Saturday so at least it is out of the way.
