HELP! 3.4 starts then dies!!!
#1
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HELP! 3.4 starts then dies!!!
I have been fighting this thing for some time now and I really am lost. I talked to tmz to make sure my wiring is good and it is, we checked to make sure the ecm was good and it checked out ok, but I still cannot get it to run.
If I start it it will run for two seconds then die unless I almost completely cover the air intake. If I cover 90% of the intake tube the thing will idle and run but as soon as I take my hand off of the tube it will sputter and die no matter how hard I pump the gas or whatever. If I unplug the maf it will run just fine if you keep it below 2k and 1/4 throttle, it runs rich but I assume it defaults to a rich setting because the maf is unplugged. I tried a good maf from my buddies truck and it does the same thing. My fuel pump is running, it has gas, etc.
I AM LOST PLEASE HELP ME!!! $20 WILL BE PAYPAL TRANSFERED TO THE PERSON THAT TELLS ME WHATS WRONG WITH IT AND HELPS ME SO i CAN GET THIS THING RUNNING!!!
If I start it it will run for two seconds then die unless I almost completely cover the air intake. If I cover 90% of the intake tube the thing will idle and run but as soon as I take my hand off of the tube it will sputter and die no matter how hard I pump the gas or whatever. If I unplug the maf it will run just fine if you keep it below 2k and 1/4 throttle, it runs rich but I assume it defaults to a rich setting because the maf is unplugged. I tried a good maf from my buddies truck and it does the same thing. My fuel pump is running, it has gas, etc.
I AM LOST PLEASE HELP ME!!! $20 WILL BE PAYPAL TRANSFERED TO THE PERSON THAT TELLS ME WHATS WRONG WITH IT AND HELPS ME SO i CAN GET THIS THING RUNNING!!!
#3
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The two hoses that are hook to the intake are not hooked up but I have hooked them to the manifold vac and I have also tried leaving them open and capping them. I do doubt this is a vac problem but well I am very lost. Fwiw Im not using any evap stuff.
#4
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sounds like your motor is getting air from somewhere other than thru the MAF....i would say you need to hook up all hoses how they should be also making sure all sensors are plugged in TPS, MAF, etc.....and are you throwing any codes?
i had the same problem with my swap and my fuel pump would turn on just enough to start it....and then the fuel pump would turn off.
i would hook a test light to the power side of your fuel pump i think its on the IH2 plug....maybe IH1 not home at the moment to make sure.....
anyway make sure that light is always on.....mine would turn off just long enough to get it running then would shut off.....ended up having a wire missing on my conversion harness.
i had the same problem with my swap and my fuel pump would turn on just enough to start it....and then the fuel pump would turn off.
i would hook a test light to the power side of your fuel pump i think its on the IH2 plug....maybe IH1 not home at the moment to make sure.....
anyway make sure that light is always on.....mine would turn off just long enough to get it running then would shut off.....ended up having a wire missing on my conversion harness.
#5
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I'm with Cadman on this one. I had a split vacuum line and it would bog and almost die. Check all the vacuum hoses for splits or cracks. If you have a pic of your engine's intake side of things, maybe we can spot something.
If not, then go with b18's suggestion.
If not, then go with b18's suggestion.
#6
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sounds like your motor is getting air from somewhere other than thru the MAF....i would say you need to hook up all hoses how they should be also making sure all sensors are plugged in TPS, MAF, etc.....and are you throwing any codes?
i had the same problem with my swap and my fuel pump would turn on just enough to start it....and then the fuel pump would turn off.
i would hook a test light to the power side of your fuel pump i think its on the IH2 plug....maybe IH1 not home at the moment to make sure.....
anyway make sure that light is always on.....mine would turn off just long enough to get it running then would shut off.....ended up having a wire missing on my conversion harness.
i had the same problem with my swap and my fuel pump would turn on just enough to start it....and then the fuel pump would turn off.
i would hook a test light to the power side of your fuel pump i think its on the IH2 plug....maybe IH1 not home at the moment to make sure.....
anyway make sure that light is always on.....mine would turn off just long enough to get it running then would shut off.....ended up having a wire missing on my conversion harness.
#7
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well im sure as you know a motor takes air, fuel, spark
even with all the electronics in the world its still the same....you could turn it over and spray carb cleaner in the manifold and the motor will run.
but to get it to run correct....of course the electronics need to be happy.
the maf needs to read all the air that's getting to the motor and if its' getting air from other places you will have all sorts of runability issues.
also you never answered.....any engine codes?
even with all the electronics in the world its still the same....you could turn it over and spray carb cleaner in the manifold and the motor will run.
but to get it to run correct....of course the electronics need to be happy.
the maf needs to read all the air that's getting to the motor and if its' getting air from other places you will have all sorts of runability issues.
also you never answered.....any engine codes?
Last edited by b18vteceg; 06-11-2009 at 08:27 AM.
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#8
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Factory service manuals
http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html
#9
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well im sure as you know a motor takes air, fuel, spark
even with all the electronics in the world its still the same....you could turn it over and spray carb cleaner in the manifold and the motor will run.
but to get it to run correct....of course the electronics need to be happy.
the maf needs to read all the air that's getting to the motor and if its' getting air from other places you will have all sorts of runability issues.
also you never answered.....any engine codes?
even with all the electronics in the world its still the same....you could turn it over and spray carb cleaner in the manifold and the motor will run.
but to get it to run correct....of course the electronics need to be happy.
the maf needs to read all the air that's getting to the motor and if its' getting air from other places you will have all sorts of runability issues.
also you never answered.....any engine codes?
#10
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cam position sensor probably isnt bad....might want to check to make sure your timing belt didnt slip a tooth or 2.....make sure your crank and your 2 cam gears are lined up correctly....you dont need o2 sensors to run....so i wouldnt worry about that right now....
if you dont want to pull off to check timing you could check compression in all cylinders.....that will give you a basic idea if you are close to in time or not....
if you dont want to pull off to check timing you could check compression in all cylinders.....that will give you a basic idea if you are close to in time or not....
#11
Fix air leaks this is your issue if its getting unmetered air from somewhere else its going to do this fix leaks!!!! All leaks must be 100% gone then you will see. any trouble codes?
#12
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I checked timing and it was around 10* so I guess thats about what it should be. The cam gears are lined up, but I have not checked the crank. I have tried running it with all vent lines capped and hooked up and nothing seams to change.
#13
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Also, check your maf. Had a similar issue when my MAF went bad. It sounds like a cracked hose, but if you change them out and still it occurs it could be the maf. I say this because when you limit the air flow and it runs, the MAF may read this as "correct".
The MAF controls the fuel pump. On mine what occurred was it would not send the electrical signal for the pump to stay on, so no fuel. I ended up bypassing the maf by hard wiring the pump until I got a new MAF sensor. Its easy to do at the test box.
The MAF controls the fuel pump. On mine what occurred was it would not send the electrical signal for the pump to stay on, so no fuel. I ended up bypassing the maf by hard wiring the pump until I got a new MAF sensor. Its easy to do at the test box.
#14
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If you don't have any leaks check to make sure you have the correct MAF for your year and motor. If so check to see if it is still good (wired properly).90% sure it has something to do with these three things. Good luck.
#15
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try this....use some starter fluid or something like it.....open a vacuum line small one preferably and have someone crank it....when it starts give it a lil squirt.....dont go nutty just a lil somethin somethin......
if the rpms go up.....and you can keep it alive (i know it will be rough) but if it stays running you have a fuel problem.....if adding some spray does nothing.....its possible its killing spark.....
lets try that....see if we can get some answers.....
if the rpms go up.....and you can keep it alive (i know it will be rough) but if it stays running you have a fuel problem.....if adding some spray does nothing.....its possible its killing spark.....
lets try that....see if we can get some answers.....
#17
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I had a very similar problem when I did mine. It ended up being 2 things.
A wire from the ignitor telling the ECM the motor was running was not connected.
And the MAF sensor was in backwards.
A wire from the ignitor telling the ECM the motor was running was not connected.
And the MAF sensor was in backwards.