DANGER No Coolent Flow after swap!
#1
DANGER No Coolent Flow after swap!
So i got it running good enough to check everything out. There doesn't appear to be any coolant flow. I let it run long enough to warm up but not 100% sure the thermastat ever opened. I have tried several times but am afraid of a catrosphetic problem occurring. The temp gauge appears to be working. It would either not work all together or work for the most part right? When the engine is cold and warms up it climbs to the middle of the gauge then just sits there.
I swapped on the 3.0 thermostat housing but kept the 3.4 thermastat. Was I supposed to use the 3.0 thermostat?
The radiator builds pressure, but I know no coolant is getting to the engine. I can remove the engine coolant drain plug and nothing comes out. Also the radiator coolant level has not gone down.
The heater hoses I assume are hooked up correctly. I hooked them up the same as all the 89+ swaps I've read. I couldn't find any good pics of the heater hoses on the 1st gen 4runner or truck swap write-ups.
Please help! I'm anxious to take her for the maiden voyage!
I swapped on the 3.0 thermostat housing but kept the 3.4 thermastat. Was I supposed to use the 3.0 thermostat?
The radiator builds pressure, but I know no coolant is getting to the engine. I can remove the engine coolant drain plug and nothing comes out. Also the radiator coolant level has not gone down.
The heater hoses I assume are hooked up correctly. I hooked them up the same as all the 89+ swaps I've read. I couldn't find any good pics of the heater hoses on the 1st gen 4runner or truck swap write-ups.
Please help! I'm anxious to take her for the maiden voyage!
#2
Registered User
So i got it running good enough to check everything out. There doesn't appear to be any coolant flow. I let it run long enough to warm up but not 100% sure the thermastat ever opened. I have tried several times but am afraid of a catrosphetic problem occurring. The temp gauge appears to be working. It would either not work all together or work for the most part right? When the engine is cold and warms up it climbs to the middle of the gauge then just sits there.
I swapped on the 3.0 thermostat housing but kept the 3.4 thermastat. Was I supposed to use the 3.0 thermostat?
The radiator builds pressure, but I know no coolant is getting to the engine. I can remove the engine coolant drain plug and nothing comes out. Also the radiator coolant level has not gone down.
The heater hoses I assume are hooked up correctly. I hooked them up the same as all the 89+ swaps I've read. I couldn't find any good pics of the heater hoses on the 1st gen 4runner or truck swap write-ups.
Please help! I'm anxious to take her for the maiden voyage!
I swapped on the 3.0 thermostat housing but kept the 3.4 thermastat. Was I supposed to use the 3.0 thermostat?
The radiator builds pressure, but I know no coolant is getting to the engine. I can remove the engine coolant drain plug and nothing comes out. Also the radiator coolant level has not gone down.
The heater hoses I assume are hooked up correctly. I hooked them up the same as all the 89+ swaps I've read. I couldn't find any good pics of the heater hoses on the 1st gen 4runner or truck swap write-ups.
Please help! I'm anxious to take her for the maiden voyage!
Did you fill the motor with coolant. Take off the upper hose at the radiator and bend it up and pout coolant in the motor till it fills.
It should take a good 5 minutes or so to open thermostat. You can check it by putting it in a pan of water and bring it to a boil on the stove.
Last edited by dntsdad; 03-27-2011 at 07:53 PM.
#3
I already checked the thermostat like you suggested Jason, it works. Upon reinstalling it I broke my 2nd 3.0 thermostat housing
I did not fill the engine like you suggested but will once I get a 3rd 3.0 thermostat housing. I was actually going to try that next! In addition I am going to remove the heater hose going to the heater water valve while i am filling it with coolant, as it is the highest point in the system after installing my 2" body lift and not using the radiator relocation brackets b/c I am using just an electric fan.
Good thing the I broke the housing, my neighbors would hate me for runnng it with no cat or muffler this time of night. Would be a great way to meet them for the first time I'm sure lol!
To the junk yard I go for a 3rd 3.0 housing. TIP: BE CAREFUL not to over tighten it the the block! The ears break off easily. Both the ones I broke were cast not plastic like some others I've seen.
Would it make sense if I didn't fill the engine with coolant I would be experiencing these symptoms?
Fingers Crossed!
What a dumb spot to get stuck up on!
I did not fill the engine like you suggested but will once I get a 3rd 3.0 thermostat housing. I was actually going to try that next! In addition I am going to remove the heater hose going to the heater water valve while i am filling it with coolant, as it is the highest point in the system after installing my 2" body lift and not using the radiator relocation brackets b/c I am using just an electric fan.
Good thing the I broke the housing, my neighbors would hate me for runnng it with no cat or muffler this time of night. Would be a great way to meet them for the first time I'm sure lol!
To the junk yard I go for a 3rd 3.0 housing. TIP: BE CAREFUL not to over tighten it the the block! The ears break off easily. Both the ones I broke were cast not plastic like some others I've seen.
Would it make sense if I didn't fill the engine with coolant I would be experiencing these symptoms?
Fingers Crossed!
What a dumb spot to get stuck up on!
#4
Registered User
I had a pretty good air bubble in the system on mine that was keeping the coolant from flowing initially. The radiator was basically full, but I couldn't get it to suck in through the block. If that's what is going on with yours, try this:
Take a long funnel. Wrap electrical tape around it to increase the diameter until it can form a seal on the radiator. Rapidly poor coolant into the funnel until it fills to the "cup" part of the funnel. Run the engine with your heater switched to hot, and watch it bubble.... if it sucks it below the funnel (which it should) pour some more in. But stay out of the way and don't do it in a spot you don't want to spill on. The fluid level can shoot up really quickly and go everywhere if you get a big enough air pocket coming out.
This does 2 things: It forces more coolant into the radiator, and then into the block because of the increased pressure.. Then it also raises the top of the coolant system, which forces the air out through the funnel.
I ran mine for a good 5-10 minutes before the coolant stopped bubbling, while my girl friend kept a close eye on the temperatures through the OBD2 port.
Take a long funnel. Wrap electrical tape around it to increase the diameter until it can form a seal on the radiator. Rapidly poor coolant into the funnel until it fills to the "cup" part of the funnel. Run the engine with your heater switched to hot, and watch it bubble.... if it sucks it below the funnel (which it should) pour some more in. But stay out of the way and don't do it in a spot you don't want to spill on. The fluid level can shoot up really quickly and go everywhere if you get a big enough air pocket coming out.
This does 2 things: It forces more coolant into the radiator, and then into the block because of the increased pressure.. Then it also raises the top of the coolant system, which forces the air out through the funnel.
I ran mine for a good 5-10 minutes before the coolant stopped bubbling, while my girl friend kept a close eye on the temperatures through the OBD2 port.
Last edited by Quick Draw; 03-28-2011 at 10:57 AM.
#5
Contributing Member
I fill from the radiator and let the air out at the heater hose "T" then top it off with a funnel on the heat hose "T". When completely full I just use a plug in the hose and hold it with a hose clamp.
Pic of the tube swiveled up:
Swiveled down. Note: plug is missing the hose clamp in pic.
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-28-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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