DWEINBERG01

First, the motor sounds awesome. Runs strong. Now here are the problems.

Yesterday, I got it moving for the first time. I made it to the end of the block (100 yards) and then it shifted then stopped moving. I went through all the gears trying to get it moving so I could get it back to the house but nothing. I had to tow it back, wheels spun freely, didnt' have to drag it. I checked the tranny fluid when it was warm, about 1/8" below the hot line.

I came back to it this morning, put a bit more tranny fluid into it but it still won't move. Engine doesnt' even bog down like it is trying to move.

Second issue is when I started it up this morning, I got the P0300-P0306 codes. The code reader says that the P0300 code is a multiple cylinder misfire. The P0301-P0306 codes are all of the cylinders misfiring.

The manual said that the issues could be:
1) fuel pressure-I'm using the 95 fuel sending unit
2) injector-original injectors
3) MAF sensor- gonna clean it tomorrow
4) valve clearance- didn't touch the valves
5) compression pressure- I will check that tomorrow also.
6) engine temp sensor- temp gauge works but I am going ohm out the sender tomorrow

I did change the timing belt before install, but all the marks were lined up.
Any help is appreciated.

DWEINBERG01

So today, I pulled the plugs and this is what they looked like. This is after about 1.5 hours of total run time:


Before pulling the plugs, I ran the runner for about 15 min at idle. After pulling the plugs my compression numbers were:
CYL 1- 90
CYL 2- 88
CYL 3- 90
CYL 4- 90
CYL 5- 90
CYL 6- 90

Now from what I've read, those numbers are way to low. I think the compression numbers should be in the 185-195 range, right? Will the motor sound different or odd if the compression numbers are that far off. This motor sounds really strong.

I did notice some backfire from the tailpipe while it was running.
I also cleaned the terminals for the MAF sensor.

blake.nemitz

do you have the right size spring on your gauge in the air hose the valve stem. you cant use a regular valve stem if you do it will read 30 to 40 lower

DWEINBERG01

Are you talking about on the compression tester? I rented it from Autozone. How do I know if its right?

Anyone know how to do a fuel pressure test on the Toyota motor w/o pulling everything apart?

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

I may be wrong, but I thought most of these motors have 2 temp sensors, one for the ECM and one for the gauge.

DWEINBERG01

I know about the one on the drivers side of the motor near the bottom. Where is the other one located?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

the temperature sensors are at the back of the motor. I would try another compression tester and with all the plugs removed and throttle open crank it over for 5-10 seconds a cylinder. This is best done when warm. How old are the plug wires? Please check to make sure you crank bolt is tight. Did you properly tourque the bolt? they are known to wander loose and can cause miss' s.

DWEINBERG01

Plug wires are brand new just like the plugs. Purchased on the same day. I will check the crank bolt tommorrow morning. Thanks.

DWEINBERG01

Today, I checked the crank bolt torque, 184 lbs/ft as specified in the FSM. All of the timing marks are dead on. I also cleaned the MAF. Still had the same issue P0300. I ohm'd out all of the injectors. All of the ohm'd at 15.8 at about 63°F outside temp. FSM says they should be ~ 13.8 at 68°F. I'm guessing that means that they are putting out too much power hence too much fuel into the cylinders. When I pulled the plenium off it smelled like gas .... bad.

Couldn't do a compression test cuz I was working alone today. With that much of a difference in the FSM recommendation and what I have for my injectors, is that gonna make a huge difference? Is the FSM talking about ambient outside temp or motor temp?

RobD

To sorta answer about the fuel pump, I'm running my '91 3.0 fuel pump with the 3.4 just fine. Has been for ~144 500 kms.

I'm assuming you hooked your fuel return line up properly and you're not getting too much pressure on the fuel injectors. On mine, there is a fuel pressure regulator on the rear driver's side of the engine with the return line.

DWEINBERG01

Since you brought this up, and I am want to be sure I did it right, do you have a picture of what hard line the return line connected to, or how to make sure I have it connected to the right line. Apparently alot of guys have hooked it to the old evap canister line by mistake. I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

Team420

With those #'s... I wouldnt go any farther without figuring why they are so low... be it the compression tester, or something internal.... just my opinion.

DWEINBERG01

Yeah, I know. Unfortunantly I won't have anyone to help with that until Sat. I was shocked when I saw those numbers. I just find it odd that all 6 cylinders are that low but the same,leads me to think either I did it wrong or the tester was bad. My assistant that day was not mechanically inclined and I forgot to tell him to hold the throttle wide open, and I don't think the truck was at full temperature. Don't know how much difference all that will make but we will see on Saturday.

DWEINBERG01

Did another compression check, the correct way. Numbers still suck!!!!! 2.4 & 6-110. 1,3 &5-108. That tells me that a rebuild is necessary and I am out of money.

Thank you everyone for all the help. I am going to call this build dead at 1545 hours on 03/10/11.

dntsdad

Man I feel for you. Isnt the end of the world though.

Rebuild that beast and you will have a really nicely setup Runner soon!!

tirogers

It's soooo sad when someone does a swap and got a bogus engine. I'm Sorry man that blows! Just always be lookin for another 3.4 on the cheap or rebuild.....I know its disappointing! If I fine any Ill send ya a pm w/ info! Where did you get the engine? What dis the seller tell you?

DWEINBERG01

He told me that it was from his daughters runner that she rolled. Found him on Craigslist (cons list at this point).

My dad volunteered to help me rebuild the motor. I may take him up on that but the transfer being stuck in neutral is still an issue.

I think I'm gonna sit on it for a while, maybe work some OT and see about the rebuild.

Thanks for the encouraging words.

DWEINBERG01

Even though the motor has its issues, is there a way to diagnose the transmission problem with it still in the truck? I have heard about the dreaded "milkshake" and also shift solenoids going out. Any way to figure out why its not engaging?

DWEINBERG01

Any ideas on the transmission?

Team420

ok... not too sure about the tranny issue... u said transfer stuck in neutral... that mean the shifter is in neutral, and wont move, or the shifter is in 2wd(or 4wd or 4lo), and the truck wont move? If the shifter is stuck, tear the linkage apart, and see whats binding... If its the other way... get the fsm, and start testing solenoids.

As far as the motor is concerned....If she fires up no prob(especially on cold starts) and sounds good, and moves the truck around no prob... then I wouldnt worry about it too much... I'd run it till it gives you problems... More than likely, it is weak rings causing the low compression, and usually... after they get up to normal temp, they will build up a lil more compression... Run it till it dont run no more, and save for the rebuild in the meantime. I have seen thes motors run fine with low compression for many years....
In fact.. My bud has a 93 runner w the 3.0l, It has cold start issues, and I checked the compression on it, and got 0psi in 4 of the 6 cyl... the other 2 were at about 40-50psi... it takes a bit of cranking for those weak rings to build compression, but when it does, she fires up, and runs great.... food for thought anyway.... and GOOD LUCK!