CGuava

Thanks QuickDraw. Do you have better pics of how you setup your intake? I think your setup may work with mine as I have some tight quarters over on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

I plan on running w/o an EVAP, is there anything special I need to do in order to do that (outside of plumbing my fuel return independently)?

Here are the plugs that I cannot find a home for, I haven't compared to another 3.4 yet, but figured I'd try here first:

Coming off the drivers top front of the engine harness (two plugs):


1 white plug center at the back of the motor:


Extra gray plug at the throttle body:

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Top two are oil pressure and add on diff. White is coolant temp sender to gauge. By tps is not used. I think it's egr temp plug.

Quick Draw

I will try to snap some pics for you this weekend. I left my truck in the Springs because we wheeled Eagle Rock last weekend, and I'm going to hit up Penrose this weekend. So rather than make the 3 hour drive 2 extra times, we just left Doris down there for the week.

I will say that my intake setup may be changing. I guess it's been working just fine so far. But there's something a little bit cheesy about the parts that makes me wonder how long it will last. I bought those ricer looking DIY "cold air" intake parts that they stock on the shelves at Autozone, Advance, etc... They're all the same at any of those stores really. I don't know why, but for some reason I saw the shiny tubing in those thick plastic packages, and just assumed they were polished aluminum...especially for the price. They're really just chromed plastic, unfortunately. I bought a piece that allowed you to plug in vacuum ports that bolts right on to the throttle body, which is then connected to a 45 degree elbow, followed by one of those silicone couplers, which attaches to the MAF, and then the airfilter bolts to other side of the MAF. Here's the best picture I have at the moment:


I had to make my own battery tray and move the battery closer to the front for this to work.

CGuava

That's the one I saw. You going to be coming through Castle Rock with that this weekend? Can I meet you somewhere for a quick viewing session on the motor? In fact, I think I'll be down at Penrose this weekend, which day you going to be there?

If you want to get rid of the intake, I'll buy it from you. It's the same setup(ish) that I used on my 3.0. One of those ricer intakes from autozone. My battery is in the back of the buggy, so clearance there isn't really an issue. It's just my coilover/suspension mounts are straight out from the throttle body.

Sidenote, potentially STUPID question: I see in your pic that you've got the igniter still on the firewall, does the 3.4 need an igniter? I just took the one from my 3.0 out yesterday.

Quick Draw

We haven't set in stone when we will be there yet, but it will most likely be Saturday. We usually get there around 10 or 11. I'm not caged yet, so I think we're just going to head down Liberty, watch the rigs on Patriot for a bit, then head back out on Liberty. So if you show up sometime Saturday, you're bound to see me. And if not, I will be heading back through CR on my way home, and could meet you off the highway or something. I'll PM you my phone number in a minute.

Yes the 3.4 does need an ignitor. But I don't think you can see it in this pic. It's mounted on the fender behind the battery. You will need one specific for a 3.4. They're just a little black rectangular box about 2" x 3" x 0.5". The only thing i see that could potentially look like an (old) ignitor in the picture is the windshield wiper motor... is that what you were seeing? Sorry it's such a terrible pic. My cell phone is very old. It's possible you already have one, because I didn't see the plug in your unused plugs photos. It's the one that branches off of the plug for the MAF.

CGuava

Oh good, yeah, that's what I was talking about. That's funny, I was taking it off thinking it was the igniter, but yeah, I took off my wiper motor. DOH! I don't really need it anyways.

I do have the little black box. Right next to the MAF. I won't be down in Penrose until Sunday, so I'll probably just have to meet you off the highway. Which day you coming through?

Quick Draw

Alright that's okay. You can even meet me in the Springs if you want. I won't be leaving there until late afternoon. So I could still catch you on your way through. Otherwise, I would bet I will be traveling through CR at about 5-6 pm.

Oh I forgot to say above that I'm not sure how running without evap will work. The ECU monitors all of that crap, and will trip a code unless you can fool it. I have it hooked up but even mine keeps getting the "Incorrect purge flow-EVAP" or something along those lines. It only kicks on every 500 miles so far, so it hasn't been my priority to figure it out yet. I wouldn't care that my CEL is on except that the time frame between when it first kicks on and when I can get the code read is a little nerve racking with a fresh engine swap. So far it's just been the evap every time. But I still don't like seeing the light.

CGuava

Thanks for your input Vital! Helped me out a lot. Got the two up front hooked up tonight. Turns out they were oil pressure and crank sensor up near the front crank.

Could not find the other side of the plug for the coolant temp sensor, that should be in my body harness right? Do you know where it was on the 3.0?

CGuava

This is confirmed, got a 3.0 pulley on and it's all ready for v-belt up front, just need to fab a mount for the pump to lock it in place. Just for future searchers reference.

CGuava

So, I'm at a stand still. The exhaust is ran, fuel is run, cooling is done. All I need are these stupid plugs to get at the wiring. Seems like everyone gets stuck here at some point.

I've called and it sounds like no one has a truck that I can pull the plugs from. This is a 96 T100, I'm going to try to find the time to get to some junkyards this week, but it's looking bleak. Is it true that all pre-1997 plugs would have the same configuration?

Is there a honey hole for these plugs? Need it ASAP.

CGuava

Well, she runs, but briefly. Runs for a few seconds then dies (sounds like everyone else's problem).

My fuel pump is wired from my fuel cell on it's own circuit on a switch. I've done it this way on 3 other toys I've built and never had issue (including with the previous 3.0). Does the 3.4 require a lot more fuel pressure than the 3.0? I'd have to think that it being on it's own circuit eliminated the COR relay.

Wiring was not completed by me, it was done by a certified pro, (thefatkid) so I doubt there's any issues there. Anywhere else I can look?

Funny note, I unplugged my MAF and it ran for approximately 20 seconds until I decided to replug the MAF in. Couldn't replicate it after that time.

EDIT: Tried a different MAF, didn't work. Checked the ground behind the passenger head, the ground at the intake plenum on the driver's side. MAF is in the correct orientation. Shows 12V / 5V at the TPS, MAF, Igniter.

Anywhere else to check?

Moab is in 5 days! Help!

hamish_18

So you are sure that you have the correct pinout for the MAF? Also make sure you don't have an FC on your ecu pinout. I think its for Fuel Control. Not sure if the computer needs to know if there is fuel getting to the motor or whatnot. Something to check at least. What does it sound like when it runs for the little bit. Does it spit and sputter? or run strong. Can you give it any gas? Is the Idle Air Control valve functional? Thats the little greenish looking box on the bottom of the throttle body. Thats all I can think of.

*edit. The FC I have only seen on a few 3.4's so it may or may not be in your ecu.

dntsdad

Usually your issue if MAF related. Strange that it will run for even one second when you unplug the MAF. Mine dies instantly.

You may have wiring issues there.......not sure. But I know that even pros make a mistake now and then.

CGuava

Thanks for the responses guys, I'll be spending today trying to troubleshoot this thing. I was begining to think I said something wrong when I posted 4 posts in a row.

Is it possible the intake/maf is too close to the throttle body?

When it runs, its sounds strong, then just kills itself, as if it's running out of fuel.

CGuava

OK, got a few hours into it today, including a friend of mine who is very "motor" inclined.

We're pretty sure it's a fueling problem. Possible a bad fuel pressure regulator, or stuck injector flooding the motor. Going try pulling the intake and swapping a different pressure regulator in.

Is there a way to test injectors to see if they are stuck open?

hamish_18

The troubleshooting is in the fsm for them. But I think if you apply 12 volts to them you should here a clicking sound. If you don't then its stuck either open or shut. At least I think that is what it tells you Its been awhile, and I am to lazy to look it up lol.

TOYJOETA

Any luck getting this running yet, I missed the issue of crawl with you on it. Aaron told me about but could never find one. next time you head down to penrose shoot me a pm you could come check out my 3.4 swapped 92 and my inprogress 85 swap.

CGuava

Haven't been working on it for the last couple weeks, finally have the time and desire to get back into it.

Still no luck.....I'm once again stumped.

Seems to me that everything fuel related checks out. Got a Pressure Tester on it today. Junkyard FPR was installed last week with no changes to symptoms.

Fuel pressure findings:
-45 psi with pump on (nothing else going)
-~40 psi when cranking
38 or so when running (for a few seconds)
Pressure stays ~40-45 when motor is stopped, which to me indicates that there aren't any injectors stuck. At least none that are stuck open.

Any other ideas? I'm starting to wonder if it's timing, though, I did pull off the cover, swapped my old pulley back on, and when it's lined up with 0, the cam gears are at the top position, could it be 1 rotation off or something? I've done timing belts before, but this one may be different??

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Maybe related to some sort of rollover sensor?

CGuava

Are there any rollover sensors on this motor?

Pulled the bottom timing cover to check the crank gear and timing down there, all checks out. I did notice a tooth missing of the crank timing gear though, one of the teeth that lines up with the CPS. Could that cause it to shut off though?