UKrunner

Not as much progress today as hoped. Woke up to about 4 inches of snow and it kept coming all day. We have about 7 inches now. I dont have a heated garage so work was slow. My glass of coke actually started to freeze. Also the 3.4 was still outside under wraps on the trailer we towed it home on last night. The 3.0 was in bits all over the garage so I had to clear that up, swap bits and move it outside before I could do anything with the 3.4.

Question about the dipstick and holes. The stock 3.4 dipstick is at the front drivers side and the blocked off port is center of the block drivers side. Could not pull out the port so drilled it out for the 3.0 dipstick. Now the original port is where I should tap and fit the 1/4 bung correct? Not gonna happen, the hole is much larger than that. I can fit a torque convertor bolt through it. I think I'm just going to put back the original dipstick tube with a cut short dipstick.

UKrunner

Hmm cannot get the 3.0 dipstick tube to fasten tight into the bung. Looks like a ridge needs to be dremeled.

RobD

I just drove out the plug that was in my 3.4, where the 3.0 dipstick bung fit into. Mine was a 97 Tacoma motor that simply had the side dipstick fitted with a plug.

UKrunner

Can I use Permatex Ultra Black RTV to seal the oil pick up pipe to the oil pump?

Downloaded a bunch of stuff from TIS today. Spent most of the day scraping old gasket from the 3.0 components. Still unsure about the dipstick hole. I tried to drive it out as hard as I dared and nothing moved. The 3.0 dipstick will slide in but not far enough. It needs a tack weld or epoxying in place, or some way of stopping it from vibrating loose. To bad there is no quick and easy place to bolt the bracket to.

Finding out that a lot of the wiring is still in the donor vehicle 50 miles away! ECU plug E12 has been totally cut. All 13 wires will need to be lengthened and a new loom created from scratch for them. Havent traced much wiring yet. The ignitor is still on the donor too so if anyone has one for a reasonable price, let me kow.

It looks like I can do away with 99% of the evap system which is nice. E12 controls one of the VSV's which I think is not needed, so that will be 2 less wires to replace.

UKrunner

Went back to the donor today and got the all the missing items. Ordered a gasket for the oil pick up pipe which should arrive Monday.
Hope to swap pulleys and mounts over tonight.

Watching the temprature drop 4 degrees in an hour was not fun. Gotta get a heater for the garage.

breknraj

Read my write up, and you'll be thankful that you have a garage, at all!

An infra-red heater that fits on top of your 20 pound cylinder works quite well at keeping things reasonably comfortable. Just make sure that you have some fresh air coming in!

UKrunner

Just completed reading through your thread. Thats quite a few exhaust issues. I'm going to try and use the stock crossover and run a pipe down the passenger side and under the transmission, across to the drivers side. I plan on wrapping the down pipe and using heat reflective tape on the fuel lines and various cables and hoses down that side of the vehicle.

What wiring is needed to keep the 4x4 working? Do you have a picture of the heater hoses from the engine to the firewall?




I got my gasket yesterday but as luck would have it I got a huge order at work to build and my kid has to go to the doctors office 50 miles away. I can only do bits and pieces here and there on my swap. Bummer too as the weather has warmed up 20 degrees.

EDITED: I do have my evap worked out and have rejoined some of the cut harness.

breknraj

Most of my exhaust issues were because I didn't think the set up through quite enough, and what kind of stresses that it would be subjected to. While I would have appreciated some kind of heads up about giving the exhaust more support, and why - I still have no one to blame but myself.

I just never saw anything that clued me into more support for the system, else I'm sure that I would have addressed it at the time of the conversion.

UKrunner

Working on the wiring now. Should I use the 3.0 wiring for the auto tranny or the 3.4? Looks easier to cut and splice the 3.0 onto the 3.4 than unplug some of those hard to reach connectors.

UKrunner

So any ideas on the tranny wiring? It does look like I have to use the original wiring and splice into the 3.4 ecu.
Any clue as to how to wire up the solenoids, or any other help would be apreciated as this is the last wiring hurdle - I think!

UKrunner

Any idea where solenoid 4 (transfer) connects to the 3.4 harness?

syber_kowboy

Here is the 4WD AT EWD from my swap. I was originally going to have to do something like that but I made the wreckers replace the harness with a 4x4 model instead. This wiring diagram is for a 4WD AT 97 T100 so I'm not sure how that compares to the swap your are doing but it might help a little.

UKrunner

Thanks! Having trouble reading it though. What terminal and name is given to the yellow wire?

syber_kowboy

That one is TFN ( I think it stands for TransFer Neutral) and it connects to A 17 on the ECM and at IE2 position 9

IM me if you can or give me your email and I'll send the PDF. Had to make the image small to post on the forum.

UKrunner

Well, this is just about together now. Engine bay wiring, vacuum, ps, air, coolant hoses, all done. However the big pain right now is bolting the engine up to the tranny. I am about half an inch shy of reaching the bolts and cannot get the engine to push back any further. Angle is perfect, I have a longer bolt in on one side to keep the angle perfect and the engine rotation correct. Any recommendations to get this thing to slide? By now the splines should be engaged right? I can turn the crank with no binding. I can barely see the teeth on the flexplate behind the torque convertor.

I've spent about 12 hours just on this alone now!!

syber_kowboy

Dude I did the exact same thing LOL. Your torque converter is not seated all the way. You need to slide it back a few inches and pull it forward then slowly rotate it and push it back in until it is fully seated. I was trying to find the page in repair manual that gives you the exact depth there should be between the torque converter and the bell housing but I can find it. You should be able to tell if it is deeper then before.

UKrunner

I thought that might be a possibility but thought it was in far enough considering I can only see a tiny fraticon of the teeth. I hope I havent destroyed the spline eges.

UKrunner

Sigh. This is rediculous. How far out do I have to pull the engine to disengage the TQ from the shaft? Distance between the engine and bell housing is currently 3.5 inches. I've turned and turned the crank and pushed and the engine will still not go all the way to the bellhousing.

UKrunner

Ok, took the engine completely off the input shaft, turned the crank, put it back on and gained about half an inch. The ends of the bolts are right at the holes. If there were a 1/4 inch more I could thread them into the holes and pull the assemblies together.

GGGRRRRR!!!!!!! Time for a scotch and a cigar.

UKrunner

Alright, I've got a bolt to thread in! So at this point, would you guys say the TQ is correctly seated? If I start to tighten now will a destroy the splines at this point? The engine to bell housing gap is 1 inch or less.