screamer76

i didn't think i could so it went with the other engine

RobD

Ooooooh...yeah, I see where that might be a problem.

Not to rub it in, but... http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48/1/10/

I did the same...hit mine up with the grinder and voila. Just make sure you use the right power steering fluid. If memory serves, it calls for ATF. I used PS fluid and evidently the steering box seals don't like it.

__________________
1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

screamer76

oh well. the ors hose isn't that much, and then i won't have to worry for a while. and i've got plenty to do while i wait for it

RobD

Yep. You still need to relocate your battery to the driver side. Did you do the tach mod yet?

__________________
1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

screamer76

i'm thinking about trying to find a replacement dash pad first, so i may just leave it with no tach. that won't mess with the ignition circuit will it?

RobD

That I couldn't tell you.

__________________
1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

screamer76

screw it then. at least if i ever do replace the pad, i'll have already taken the whole dash apart once before.

screamer76

so, more pictures. the first one is my crossover after cutting off the flanges. the guy that did the welding asked me to leave the pipe that wraps over the bellhousing intact until he was able to try fitting it in place.


you can see that with an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and a little patience i was able to cut off the flanges without actually cutting into the pipe. when it started to wear thin all the way around, i took a hammer and tapped the flange until it cracked the remaining weld.


when i got to the double flange, i cut as far around as i could with the cutoff wheel, then used a sawzall to cut in between the two pipes. this left me with two small areas that i couldn't reach with either tool, so i clamped it in the vise and started wrenching back and forth until they gave. i had to grind down the rough cut on all of the flanges, but it was basically just removing what was left of the weld, not taking material off the flanges.


a couple of nights later, we pushed the engine over into jim's shop, where he started fitting pieces together, making cuts, move this piece over here, that piece over there, etc., etc. then he started tacking pieces in place beginning with the passenger side manifold to make sure it cleared the bellhousing.he actually replaced some of the original pieces with extras that they had in the shop. this picture was taken with the pipes still quite warm. i just left the crossover on until the next day.


the next day before getting a few coats of high temp low gloss black paint.


and the crossover ready to be installed


i'm very satisfied with how this came out. i put on the downpipe today and the a/f sensor can be put in without modding the pipe, BUT the cat will rub slightly on the torsion bar, so that will have to be dealt with. no big deal there; it's a tight area, but not like the crossover. thanks to jason4x4 for the inspiration and jim for a great welding job. more soon

breknraj

You might want to think about putting some header wrap on those crossover pipes, as they are going to run very close to your firewall, as well as some critical brake lines, and cables.

Make sure that you secure the down pipe to the bellhousing to reduce vibration in the crossover, and ORS recommends a flex coupling as soon as the exhaust turns level, under the truck.

__________________
Raj : 1960 Homo Sapien. 192cm, Blonde, Blue. Soon to lose spare tire.

Worf : 1990 SR5 Xtracab 4x4 5 speed, Inca Red Metallic. 3.4 converted, with Taco 5 spoke alloys, 275/65R16 BFG AT K/Os. Soon to add rear e-locker.

RobD

My only concern with this is that you might not have the clearance between your frame and firewall to fit that double flange in. I'm not sure, but that looks like the way I did mine the first time and I was unsuccessful. Hopefully, that's not the case in this instance.

__________________
1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

Elvota

Very nice job man.. looks like some really clean fab work going on there.

__________________

1990 4Runner | V6 3.4 | 5spd | 240 someoddthousand miles | SR5 | SAS | RLS | 35's | ARB | TJM | 217 to 1 | W8000

- four wheels | three sticks | two hands | one trail -

screamer76

i was actually looking at header wrap today. of course, it would have been easier to put on before i installed the crossover to the engine, and then the engine in the truck. the downpipe is going to require some modification, so i'll try to keep all of these points in mind when considering further options. if you think of any other tips, please pass them along

screamer76

thankfully, it wasn't the case. you had posted your experience in jason4x4's thread, so after jim tacked the pipes together, i measured how far from the bellhousing the outside of the double flange sat, then ran over to my shop to measure the distance between the bellhousing and the frame. i was satisfied that i had at least an inch of clearance and gave him the go ahead to start welding. i still pretty much held my breath from wednesday night until saturday afternoon when i finally got the 3.4 in(i'm still trying to catch up with my pictures). the flange comes kind of close to the metal rear heater lines, but otherwise has good clearance all the way around. today, with the engine and crossover installed in the 4runner, i put on the downpipe. that by itself is fine, but the catalytic converter will rub on the torsion bar if left the way it is. as i said before, it's no big deal. this is probably where i'll add the flex as suggested by breknraj. i'll try to get some pictures of the clearance around that flange.

screamer76

thanks, elvota

cadman

Hey screamer, I'm not using the PS hose (non-ABS) that came with my ORS kit. Make a decent offer and it's your's.

I'm splicing the 3.4 & 3.0 hose together so I don't loose the idle-up valve. I cut both lines around the middle of the hard lines, took a tube bender and did some minor bending to get everything aligned correctly without stressing the rubber hose, turned an adapter out of 304 ss, and one of the guys at work is going to tig weld it back together.

__________________
"If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law

1989 4wd Xtra Cab
3.4L V6
A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case
Alpine CDA 9857
3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers
Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear

Next projects (in no particular order):
TRD SC
trail armor, bumpers
LT suspension

screamer76

thanks for the offer, but i need the abs-ps hose. otherwise, i'd snatch it up.

RobD

Yo, it's been a couple weeks. Where's the updates?

__________________
1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

screamer76

hey rob updates are coming soon; i've been coming home from work and going straight to work on the truck as much as possible. i'm watching my kid tonight and tomorrow night, but i should be trying to fire it up by saturday. all i need is about a half an hour. i'd try it tonight after erica gets off work, but there isn't even a cat on it so i don't think that would go over very well with the neighbors anyway, i'm trying to keep this in order, so my next update will show my dipstick relocation. talk to you soon.

RobD

Sweet. Looking forward to your success.

Keep us updated, pretty please.

__________________
1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

screamer76