mt_goat

Quote: Originally Posted by hektikwon Hey Tragicdive, ... Also did you switch out you fuel filter with a 3.4 filter and if so did it go in on the 3.0 fittings. That is an interesting question. I've never heard of anyone doing that, but if the 3.4 filter is bigger and would fit in between the same fuel lines I'd look in to it. I'm getting ready to replace the fuel filter anyway so I'd like to know too.

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~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

mt_goat

Thanks Thomas, I appreciate your offer. I'll look for one at Ace or Lowes first.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

Injohneer

You know I'm an ME like you, but I do remember this from my Physics and Circiuts classes.
You have the same voltage drop across both resistors (since they go from/to the same pins) so yes, less resistance = more current, but you also have to remember that by putting in two resistors, you're making two paths for the current to flow through (less total resistance). So with the two resistors in || you have less resistance, less voltage drop, higher volts output.

Forgive my ignorance on the tach fix, what is the problem that you're trying to get rid of?

I know that some of the guages on our aircraft simulators are linear (-10V to 10V one one input = full range of needle) and some use a sine/cosine needle driver (the sine and cosine of the physical angle we want the needle to point to are sent to the guage, where they are manipulated w/ firmware).
For the linear guage, a different voltage (higher) would result in a different reading (higher).
For the sine/cosine guage, when we drive the needle with less voltage it goes to roughly the same place but slower (dampened). If you're trying to hold the needle horizontal, a low voltage signal may be too weak to support the weight of the needle (which is pretty small, btw!)

__________________

Trail/Build Rig: 1981 Toyota Pickup 4x4, flatbed
Tow Rig: 2001 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 4x4, X-cab Long Bed. Will be my tow rig, when I get a trailer.
RIP: 1995 4Runner.

mt_goat

[quote=Injohneer]

Forgive my ignorance on the tach fix, what is the problem that you're trying to get rid of?

[quote]

That really is a good question and I don't know. I've been told by people that have done this swap already that it needs to be done for the 3.0 tach to work with the 3.4 engine so I'm just blindly following on this one. Thanks for the explaination, makes sence to me.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

Tragic Drive

[quote=mt_goat][quote=Injohneer]

Forgive my ignorance on the tach fix, what is the problem that you're trying to get rid of?

I remember reading on 4x4 wire the exact reason why it works. I was fine with the answer and tried it and yes it works perfect. I've compared my tach to the readings on my scanner hooked to the ecu and they were dead on. I also have the resistor on top of the gauge like you.



hektikwon,
I originaly used a Magnaflow 14" 2.5 in and out and it was very loud. Carsound cat , Downey headers, flex pipe, and ball socket connections. I've since put on the most quiet muffler I could find. All you can hear now is the whine of the charger(the way I like it). However performance did take a hit with the change in muffler.



Fuel filter question ? Well I'm still using the one from my 3.0 and I dont seem to be having any problems . However mine needs to be changed as well 170k miles on it .This will be addressed with the URD fuel upgrades.

MT Goat,
you need to give us some pics of your swap. I cant wait to see a Blown and misted 3.4 in a 92 Runner. Giterdone

`Thomas

__________________
,Thomas
Supercharged 3.4 in a ARB Locked 95 Runner

hektikwon

I finally got my 2 1/4 magnaflow cat and muffler put on. I went with the 18/24 muffler and I'm liking the sound. I can definately tell there's a boost in HP. I had changed my fual filter not to long ago and just wasn't sure if I needed to upgrade or if that was just for the supercharger.

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91 4x4 4runna 3.4 , auto to manual tranny conversion, 2" body lift, Aisin manual hub conversion, vinyl flooring, 2nd gen inclinometer, 2.5 Magnalow cat & muffler, Trail Gear Sliders, Bilstein Shocks *Gone but not forgotten

96 4runna Limited e-locked, KC Fogs, 265/70/16 Hankook Dynapro ATm's

mt_goat

It's been going a little slow the last week or 2. Been doing a lot of wiring and aside from the horrible mess the so called "pro" stereo installers left behind 13 years ago there hasn't been much picture worthy. This is the type of thing they did, it is the most elaborate butt connecter I've ever seen because all this mass of wires did was connect 2 wires together:


They had wires running all over the cab that went no where. Some had been cut and spliced and then cut again and then spliced again. The ones that really bothered me were the amp power and ground wires had 2 or 3 crimp-on butt connecters just inches apart.

I got the gauges, rock lights, air horns, e-fan controller and 6 switches, 4 LEDs and 5 relays wired up. Also cleaned up and rewired the stereo system.

Getting ready to pull out the rear wheel ABS actuator to make a dandy spot for the water injection pump. I found the part number for the factory brake line used on the non-ABS models and it looks like it will do the conversion cleaner and safer then the flex line I had ordered from Summit.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

Tragic Drive

3.0 filter # 23300 65020
3.4 Filter# 23300 62030

My Dealer (buddy) says their is no difference in size or volume (visual) other than the better guard on the 3.0 filter.

You should be fine with your 3.0 filter on a supercharged motor.
I hope this answers some questions.

mt_goat,
Here is another tip for you I used an oil dipstick and tube from a 96,97 3.4 T100. IT worked perfectly I had to remove about an inch from the tube and then re-flare the top of it . The 3.0 dipstick tube does not have the same mounting locations and doesnt read correct the 3.4 T100 will.

__________________
,Thomas
Supercharged 3.4 in a ARB Locked 95 Runner

mt_goat

Cool, thanks others may need that info about the dipstick. My ORS conversion kit came with new dipsticks and tubes.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

mt_goat

I got the ABS actuator out, glad to get this mess out:


I decided to go with a stock OEM brake line from a non-abs ext-cab:

Relacing one brake line completely converts the abs to the same as the non-abs model.

In case you ever wondered, to replace a brake line going to the rear you have to move the gas tank over a few inches and remove the fuel filter. Well my fuel filter line nuts finally rounded off so bad they died and when to hell so as long as the tranny and gas tank are out of the way what a good time to replace the fuel lines and fuel filter. BTW a tranny jack works great for moving the gas tank over (as long as your drive shaft is out of the way too):

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

mt_goat

Here's the whole reason I wanted the ABS stuff out of the way:

The WI pump has landed in place

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

mt_goat

Here's the test fit of the Taurus 2 speed fan:


The shroud I made came was hitting the steering gear box, so I had to do a little grinding on the shroud to get some clearance:


Here's the backside of the shroud:


The controller is a Delta Current Control (DCC) FK35:
http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm
The nice thing about this controller is it is variable speed, rather than cycling on & off it will only spin the fan fast enough to keep below the temp setting. That gives it a soft start and less overall power drain on the alternator as well as keeping the engine at a more constant temp equilibrium.

I wired the DCC controller to the high speed wire of the Taurus fan motor since it will automaticlly slow the speed down when needed.

The slow speed wire of the fan motor I hooked up to a competely seperate power system so it can be used as a back-up if the DCC system fails.

With this "on-off-on" switch:

I can go from the DCC controller to the backup with the flip of a switch. The "off" setting can be used for deep water crossings to keep water from damaging the fan or throwing water up into the intake.

Edit:Just found out from Brian @ DCC the proper way to bypass the DCC controller for deep water crossings is to switch the small yellow controller input wire from 12 volt "+" to "ground". http://www.dccontrol.com/circuits.htm

I had mistakenly wired it to switch off the 12 volt positive to the main fan input (big 10 gauge wire) through a 40 amp relay, but Brian informed me that the controller needs to have the main input connected while the controller is running since it uses active switching to clamp the flyback voltage of the fan. I guess the fan is kind of like a little generator and sends a reverse voltage back though the system. In Brian's words: "What happens is that when you turn the voltage off on a motor is that it will generate a very high reverse voltage. The controller clamps this to ground byway of an active switch. If there's no voltage to the circuit board, the switch can't be activated."

Brian @ DCC has been very helpful and quickly answered many e-mails of my stupid questions.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

mt_goat

Because the swap moves the battery to the other side of the engine bay, I am upgrading the wiring that goes from the battery to the fusebox, from the fusebox to the alt, and from the battery to the body ground.

In the first case from the battery to the fusebox, this must be done since the battery is now moved 4 feet farther away. The factory wire looks to be about 8 gauge, I went with 4 gauge welding cable here (note: I am keeping a fuseable link at the battery end of this wire like the Toyota engineers do).

The factory wire from the alt to the fusebox looks to be 8 gauge too, and rather than ripping out a perfectly good 8 gauge wire (which BTW has other wires spliced into it and is neatly tucked away in a harness) I decided it would be much easier to run a 2nd 8 gauge wire parallel to it. I discovered if you take the bottom of the fusebox off you can add the 2nd wire to the screw post and that way you don't have to splice into the original wire. I did the same thing at the alt screw post:


The ground wire upgrade I have used several 8 gauge wires for redundancy.

Here's where all that comes to a head, the new battery area:

Two of those cables are for the winch, one is Roger Brown's headlight harness upgrade, one is the original harness. Hard to keep it all looking neat but at least everything is protected with flextubing. Believe it or not the overflow bottle still fits between the battery and all that wire. Anyone know if those headlights get hot enough to melt flextubing?

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

mt_goat

I cleared a few hurdles the last few weeks.

The donor engine coming out:


The 3.4 engine for some reason doesn't come with a passenger side lift hook, so I took the one off the 3.0 and drilled a new hole and used it:


This had me worried for a long time so I'm really glad to be done with it, drilling a new dip stick hole through 2 inches of solid cast iron:

BTW it took about 3 hours of drilling and a half day of running around buying tools. I used a right angle drill, although maybe a regular drill would work if you remove the exhaust manifold. This doesn't have to be done on the 99 and earlier 3.4 engines.

The dip stick tube adapter in place:

This was included in the ORS conversion kit as well as a tap and plug to plug the old dip stick hole.

The oil pan has to be changed on this swap and that means the oil strainer also gets changed. Here's the new one from ORS in place now:


I got the valve body out of the tranny before I removed it from the donor truck, here what that looks like before I shipped it off to IPT for the upgrade:


To keep the tranny cool here's the ATF coolers in place now and plumbed up: EDIT: I have now removed these from that location, there was too much extra stress on the cooling system from the reduced air flow to the radiator and the extra heat placed in front of the radiator. The tranny just has one cooler now and it runs nice and cool. Removing these two ATF coolers lowered the radiator temps about 10 degrees.

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~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

Tragic Drive

:bounce2:
Unbelievable attention to detail. You will absolutley love this this truck when you are driving it.

Attention Mods: Here is my nomination for truck of the month hands down.

,Thomas

__________________
,Thomas
Supercharged 3.4 in a ARB Locked 95 Runner

mt_goat

Wow, thanks! I hope so

PS: I think the truck of the month has to have an engine in it doesn't it LOL.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

AH64ID

I dont think he said WHAT month :pat: :pat:

Looking good, kinda making me wish I hadnt sold the motor I bought a few years back, but...

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-John
'05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 6 Spd, Pricol EGT and boost, 2" Level, Jake Brake, Muffler Delete, filtered, lubed and bypassed by Amsoil, Mag-Hytec Rear, Fast Coolers, Baldwin 7977, Smarty JR SW#1, Toyo 285's...
2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift
Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA

Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

mt_goat

Yeah give me another month, should at least have the engine in by then. Of course it will never be done.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

Tragic Drive

Giterdone you old goat I have no patience

,Thomas

__________________
,Thomas
Supercharged 3.4 in a ARB Locked 95 Runner

mt_goat

Yeah that's what my wife keeps saying But it's hard to rush a labor of love.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

waskillywabbit

How the hell have I missed this thread?

You never are "done" w/ modding...only plateau'd for a time.

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WabFab Off-Road, LLC

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7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010

The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it.

mt_goat

Hey Wabbit, yeah I'll never be done, after the swap I need sliders and a custom rear bumper.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

04 Rocko Taco

Hows that trans cooler look, do you have them in yet? Keep me posted on updates on these tranny coolers, I have had tranny coolers on race cars before, and have thought about one for the truck. Keep me posted!!

__________________
-Chris Tread Lightly!

04 Double Cab PreRunner. 3.4 - Auto
84 4Runner 4WD. 22R - 5 spd Lifted, Locked, 33x12.50

Disclaimer:My Photobucket is being revamped. If there are broken links, shoot me a PM. Thanks. ~Chris

Great Toyota Tech

mt_goat

Yeah, got them in too, they are mounted between the radiator and AC condensor, but in this pic the radiator and engine are out of the truck.


About half of the coolers are actually below the AC condensor.

EDIT: I have now removed these from that location, there was too much extra stress on the cooling system from the reduced air flow to the radiator and the extra heat placed in front of the radiator. The tranny just has one cooler now and it runs nice and cool. Removing these two ATF coolers lowered the radiator temps about 10 degrees.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

mt_goat

Hey Thomas, I got one of those 90 deg fittings but it doesn't have the clearance to screw into the SC because of the shape of the SC around the boost port. How did you do that?

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.