Spence1016

w0w man thats some real nice work, how bout some pics of the overall truck. And also of your scar if you have one lol. How many miles were on the 3.4 when you got it? How long until the s/c and sas? Has it been offroad yet?

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mt_goat

Great Jason! What's that box by the fuel filter? You'll have to post the details on the homemade O2 simulator too.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

jasond

The engine that I put in there was supposed to have only 30k miles on it. I dont know that for sure b/c I didnt pull it, but when I pulled the oil pan to change it out for the 3vz it looked clean in there.

The s/c will be the next thing, maybe by the summer I will get it put on. The sas is far off yet. I have the axle, but it needs to be built. I also want to find another e-locker for the front so I can have one on both ends.

I havent wheeled it yet with the 5vz, but I want to so bad. The closest I got with this motor so far is getting through all of this ice that we had here lately.

The box next to the fuel filter is the solenoids for my winch, i put them under the hood to help protect them from the weather.

Mt_goat was nice enough to send me this link:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/O2bypass.html

I went to radio shack and picked up the resistor and capacitor and a little project box for well under ten dollars. Got looking at the diagram and figured out that the blue wire in that diagram is the signal wire to the ecu and the white wire is the ground that the o2 sensor uses. I put together this box so that it went with the top diagram, still using the o2 sensor but just modifying the signal. Looked at the signal after I got all finished with it on a scantool and it looked dead on with what it should. Still has a waveform just the peaks arent as high as the before cat o2 sensor. I drove approx 30 mins on the highway one way, killed the truck at a gas station (2 trip detection), started it back up and drove home. Checked to make sure with a scan tool and there wasn't even a pending code.

Radio Shack Part Numbers:

Resistors (pack of 5, but you only need one)
271-1134

Capacitor
272-1055


Something else that I thought I would share with you guys is that I used an early ecu (98 taco) with the later model injectors (slightly larger). They seem to work very well together as this motor has more 'pep' than the other 5vz trucks that I have driven. The fuel trim goes into the negatives during normal driving (not enough to set a code though), but when you step on it that motor is happy

jasond

Thanks for the compliment and I will try to get some more pics up later on.

jasond

Here are some pics of he truck as it sits now







and my favorite sticker

mt_goat

Interesting, how negitive are the fuel trims?

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

jasond

About -10%, the ecu usually sets the code at -15%

nate V

Any more to ad to the o2 bypas
That is cool and i was wondering about that the other day
sick looking truck. that is a huge bumper!! you make it?

__________________
1988 Pick-Up / 3.0 / 4:56 / 5 speed / 278k miles
"Drive it to hell and back"

jasond

Yeah, I made the rear bumper. If your talking about the front, that is a TJM. That o2 thing really isnt so much of a bypass, just a modification of the signal. You need the o2 sensor to give you the sweeping signal and to produce the voltage that it does.

I found out later that some guys did the second one on that site and it worked for them also. My biggest worry is trying to bypass the o2 heater w/o burning up some wiring. I would advise that if you do the second diagram that you just leave the o2 heater wires still going to the sensor and just modify the signal wires instead.

jasond

Wanted to make a note also that the radiator that I got at O'reillys is an aluminum radiator, a big plus for a decent price.

mt_goat

Moderators, this thread got missed in the big move to the 3.4 swap section.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

luxdlx

All that and brain surgery too. Damn dude, your an artist. Good job.

__________________
Our rides: Beater-86 2wd 22R 4sp 215K+SOLD, My Toy-94 DLX xcab 4x4 22RE 5sp 70K, Wifey Ride-02 Runner SR5 5VZ 4x4 60K and our newest beater - '94 Runner SR5 3VZ 4x4 125K project.

jasond

Thanks, I appreciate it.

mt_goat

Hey Jason, I was just looking at some pics I took and realized your exhaust doesn't cross-over until way back. Where did you put your front O2 sensor?

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

jasond

I put both of them (before and after the cat) in the right bank next to the transmission.

mt_goat

Oh...so your ECU just "sees" one bank... interesting. So you could have run a true dual exhaust off that if you wanted to huh.

__________________
~Dale~

93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

Strider7

I just read through all of that, and WOW that is some insane crafting. Super work man!

Screw American Idol, you're now on my list of YotaTech Idols, lol ...

jasond

Yeah, but I dont like the dual exhaust on the v6's, just my opinion. That and I have the gas tank in the way of bringing the right side back any farther.

Thanks, welding is one of my favortie hobbys. Thats part of what got me into four wheeling, how much fabrication can be involed.

87toy.

i gotta get me a welder and get to work

ozziesironmanoffroad

god id love to do a 3.4 swap, but i dont have the know-how for it yet. i can pull the motor, but beyond that, im SOL. you said you had to weld new motor mounts on for the 3.4, right? +

__________________
The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back.

1988 Toyota P/U 4x4
22re, 1200 miles on the rebuild
engine builder .268 cam
pioneer CD deck
31x10.50x15 BFG A/T
BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper
KC Daylighters 100W
rancho rs5000
MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB!
If not living life to the fullest, why live it?



my trucks official buildup thread

jasond

Yeah, the 22r mounts are to far forward. You dont need to take off the upper control arm mounts like I did if you use ORS's weld on mounts, but I got the yota ones (for the same year as my truck, but a 3.0 instead) and thats how they come.

ozziesironmanoffroad

damn. guess i get to learn how to weld... unless someone in san diego wants to help me out with it when im ready? lol.

__________________
The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back.

1988 Toyota P/U 4x4
22re, 1200 miles on the rebuild
engine builder .268 cam
pioneer CD deck
31x10.50x15 BFG A/T
BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper
KC Daylighters 100W
rancho rs5000
MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB!
If not living life to the fullest, why live it?



my trucks official buildup thread

Rcross

How much is too far? I just started this swap and I have the motor set in place but the engine bay is pretty gutted out so it looks like there is room at the moment. heh

__________________
Certified Jeep recovery specialist
We live in the land of the free, only because of the brave.

If you can't fix it with a hammer, what you have is an electrical problem.

If you want to find out what happens when you don't have control of your immigration, talk to an Indian.

jasond

It has been more than a year since I welded in the new mounts, but just guessing I would say 4-5 inches. Put the fan on your motor and put the radiator in place and see what kind of clearance that you have. You might be able to get away with it if you run an electric fan, but it would also mean that the harness is that much farther away from the firewall and it was a stretch getting the harness into place even after the motor was put farther back like i did.

Rcross

Ok, I have a ford taurus fan assy I was going to use. When the weather permits(my shop consists of my driveway) Ill hook the radiator and fan assy up and check clearances.

I have two Yota's with blown motor's my 4runner and my pickup the pickup is gutted pretty bad as I have already unbolted all the ifs off for the SAS (which I haven't gotten all the parts for my front axle yet). I really needed to get one of these going again, as it has gotten pretty miserable riding my GS850 back and forth to work.

Thanks for the info.

__________________
Certified Jeep recovery specialist
We live in the land of the free, only because of the brave.

If you can't fix it with a hammer, what you have is an electrical problem.

If you want to find out what happens when you don't have control of your immigration, talk to an Indian.