Missing Cylinder
#1
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Missing Cylinder
Hey Everyone,
I'm a brand new member and I am having serious trouble with my 1996 Toyota 4Runner SR5...
It started with of course, the check engine light... It then proceeded to minor shaking off of a complete stop. After that, it hit the point where when I was idling, it was shaking. Everyone said it was the wires or plugs... Changed all of them. Then everyone finally came up with the solution that it was the "coil-packs" or "igniters" that the spark plugs go through. One of them was cracked, so I replaced it, and it worked fine for a while... But then the shaking came back. You can smell the fuel just passing straight through the exhaust. There are 3 coil-packs/igniters for 6 spark plugs. Meaning 1 coil/igniter supplies a spark for 2 cylinders, meaning I'm running off of 4 cylinders.
I also had a weird experience of after an oil change. I'd start the truck and white smoke would shoot out of the exhaust for at least 30 seconds. What is that a sign of? It finally went away after a week or so, but I think something is seriously screwed up.
One more question. For those of you that have an overflow on your trucks that runs from your radiator cap to it, isn't the overflow always supposed to have something in it? Mine keeps emptying itself. If someone could explain what an overflow is used for, that would be really helpful because my truck is so screwed right now...
If you have had a related problem, feel free to respond to this or if you have any idea of what to do, please post.
Thanks a lot everyone.
Jerry
VR-4 Turbo Flip
I'm a brand new member and I am having serious trouble with my 1996 Toyota 4Runner SR5...
It started with of course, the check engine light... It then proceeded to minor shaking off of a complete stop. After that, it hit the point where when I was idling, it was shaking. Everyone said it was the wires or plugs... Changed all of them. Then everyone finally came up with the solution that it was the "coil-packs" or "igniters" that the spark plugs go through. One of them was cracked, so I replaced it, and it worked fine for a while... But then the shaking came back. You can smell the fuel just passing straight through the exhaust. There are 3 coil-packs/igniters for 6 spark plugs. Meaning 1 coil/igniter supplies a spark for 2 cylinders, meaning I'm running off of 4 cylinders.
I also had a weird experience of after an oil change. I'd start the truck and white smoke would shoot out of the exhaust for at least 30 seconds. What is that a sign of? It finally went away after a week or so, but I think something is seriously screwed up.
One more question. For those of you that have an overflow on your trucks that runs from your radiator cap to it, isn't the overflow always supposed to have something in it? Mine keeps emptying itself. If someone could explain what an overflow is used for, that would be really helpful because my truck is so screwed right now...
If you have had a related problem, feel free to respond to this or if you have any idea of what to do, please post.
Thanks a lot everyone.
Jerry
VR-4 Turbo Flip
#2
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Have you had the head gasket recall done (not sure if it applies to your make/model, call the dealer with the VIN #). It definate sounds like the head gasket is shot. When the head gasket fails, it will leak coolant into the cylinders and could flow plugs. That explains:
1. Dissappearing Coolant
2. White smoke (what you get when you burn antifreeze)
3. Fouled plugs/missing
It will be especially bad upon start up after you've already ran the motor. The coolant system will pressurize after heating it up and then when you shut it off coolant will leak into the cylinder and puddle on top of the piston. When you go to start it this puddle will go through the combustion process. If there is too much water/coolant, you could hydro lock the motor and/or possible snap a connecting rod. I'd get it looked at in a quickness.
1. Dissappearing Coolant
2. White smoke (what you get when you burn antifreeze)
3. Fouled plugs/missing
It will be especially bad upon start up after you've already ran the motor. The coolant system will pressurize after heating it up and then when you shut it off coolant will leak into the cylinder and puddle on top of the piston. When you go to start it this puddle will go through the combustion process. If there is too much water/coolant, you could hydro lock the motor and/or possible snap a connecting rod. I'd get it looked at in a quickness.
#3
Faded is right, you may be eligible for the HG recall. Dont let people tell you it wasnt for the 3.4L, because it was. In fact, it even went into 97 on the 3.4.
There are two HG recalls on two different engines. The first recall you will hear about is on the 3.0, which is also known as an internal HG problem. This is a very serious HG problem.
The second, is on the 3.4, and it was an external problem - which means its not all that serious. Its mainly a cosmetic issue, but worthy of a recall nonetheless.
As mentioned, call the dealer with your VIN and see if you are eligible. If they say no, try another dealer to verify.
The first thing I would do is get the code from that Check Engine Light you mentioned. Autozone should have a code puller. Dont worry, most codes are stored even if the CEL is not on. That should narrow it down a bit.
If you have no code, I would look at the plugs. They can tell you a lot. If all the coil packs test good, you may have to move on to injectors. I would have them tested, or test them yourself if you know how. You will need a ohm meter and a FSM.
Let us know how it goes.
There are two HG recalls on two different engines. The first recall you will hear about is on the 3.0, which is also known as an internal HG problem. This is a very serious HG problem.
The second, is on the 3.4, and it was an external problem - which means its not all that serious. Its mainly a cosmetic issue, but worthy of a recall nonetheless.
As mentioned, call the dealer with your VIN and see if you are eligible. If they say no, try another dealer to verify.
The first thing I would do is get the code from that Check Engine Light you mentioned. Autozone should have a code puller. Dont worry, most codes are stored even if the CEL is not on. That should narrow it down a bit.
If you have no code, I would look at the plugs. They can tell you a lot. If all the coil packs test good, you may have to move on to injectors. I would have them tested, or test them yourself if you know how. You will need a ohm meter and a FSM.
Let us know how it goes.
#5
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Location: benton city wa
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i dont think he needs a code puller for a 95 sr5, i think that you can actually just get a haynes or chilton manual and jumper some connections and it will flash your check engine light at you...
later
wade
later
wade
#7
Originally posted by wimpywade94
i dont think he needs a code puller for a 95 sr5, i think that you can actually just get a haynes or chilton manual and jumper some connections and it will flash your check engine light at you...
later
wade
i dont think he needs a code puller for a 95 sr5, i think that you can actually just get a haynes or chilton manual and jumper some connections and it will flash your check engine light at you...
later
wade
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