blainelukens

so I am replacing the valve cover gaskets on an 89 3.0 PU I took the intake off the manifold and one of the four bolts broke, so I sprayed it w/ bolt buster stuff hit it w/ a hammer grabbed it w/ vise grips and still nothing so I drill a 5/64" hole about a 1/4" deep and screwed and easy out to pull it out but with my luck the easy out broke of in the bolt, now I have a bolt stuck in my intake manifold with about 1/4" of it still in the manifold, anyone have any suggestions

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YotaJunky

Do you have any pics? Are you referring to the bolts and nuts that secure the air intake chamber over the intake manifold? I recall that there are 6 bolts and 2 nuts which hold the air intake chamber to the intake manifold.

How much of the stud is remaining? Try getting a stud remover rather than using an easy out. I've used one before and like you, my easy out extractor got lodged into a stud that was flush with the receiving surface. In my case, I had to pound out the female insert with a punch and hammer. You probably do not want to be doing that on the manifold though.

I would be extremely hesitant about using heat under the hood.

__________________
'95 4WD 22R-E 4Runner, 5spd, 205k kms, 4.56 gears, extended diff breather mod, bilstein shocks, Aisin manual hub swap, 1.25 rear coil spacer, 32" BFG's -- my DD

YotaJunky

I've checked with my own pics from the same valve cover gasket repair that I did about a month ago. They are indeed bolts that thread into the intake manifold and through the air intake chamber from above.

Here's my link:

http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.p...e+cover+gasket

If you've got any studs left, definitely try a stud remover before attempting a more drastic approach, like applying heat or tapping after drilling out the stud. If you do use heat, make sure you've got a fire extinguisher nearby. Again, I would be very hesitant about using heat under the hood, especially when you've got the cold start injector removed, grease, oil etc...

__________________
'95 4WD 22R-E 4Runner, 5spd, 205k kms, 4.56 gears, extended diff breather mod, bilstein shocks, Aisin manual hub swap, 1.25 rear coil spacer, 32" BFG's -- my DD

blainelukens

ok so it won't come out with a craftsman remover and now the treads are getting striped because another drill bit broke of in the screw so I cant drill any deeper the dealer said i should just take off the intake manifold and get a used one since it is such a problem so i pulled everything but the manifold wont come off for me so I'm lost any help

89_4runner

How much of the hole depth is open in the intake manifold (1/2", 1",...)? You might be able to use a helicoil insert in the hole. http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html

One other thought by Permatex...
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...&item_no=81668

It would help to see some pics if you can post them, but knowing the amount of hole depth that is available for threads is important. You may not need to remove the lower intake manifold. That could be opening more of a can of worms.

__________________
Clint
89 4Runner 3vze auto, Downey headers, 180k miles
Rancho t-bars and rear springs, 9000 shocks
31x12.50-15 BFG AT on Weld's

YotaJunky

Yes, please post pics so we have a better understanding of what you are dealing with.

__________________
'95 4WD 22R-E 4Runner, 5spd, 205k kms, 4.56 gears, extended diff breather mod, bilstein shocks, Aisin manual hub swap, 1.25 rear coil spacer, 32" BFG's -- my DD

blainelukens

ok so ill get some pics tonight the screw is stuck in there and I'm about to remove the manifold found a used one for $60 the thing is that the shop mannual says I need to remove alot of stuff to pull of the manifold and it is one big can of worms, also I need to replace the timing belt have you guys done one before?

YotaJunky

I haven't pulled my intake manifold or done my timing belt. I sounds like a lot of work if you haven't done it before.

__________________
'95 4WD 22R-E 4Runner, 5spd, 205k kms, 4.56 gears, extended diff breather mod, bilstein shocks, Aisin manual hub swap, 1.25 rear coil spacer, 32" BFG's -- my DD

89_4runner

Without looking at the manual, I'd say there is a lot of stuff (fuel lines, sensors, injectors) to remove to get to the lower intake manifold. I would be more inclined to remove what you can of the stud and try a thread repair/replace method mentioned above.

The timing belt is not too bad if you have done a fair amount of mechanical repairs. You really need to do a search on this site to see pics and details of 3.0 engine rebuilds. I can scrape together some links if needed. One of the hardest parts of the timing belt is removing the cam pulleys (high torque). It also takes some patience to align the crank and cams with the new belt.

If you're digging into the valve covers and timing belt you might also adjust the intake and exhaust valves. Starting to get a little involved isn't it? Neither is too difficult with the right tools and a manual. I have replaced the timing belt twice and adjusted the valves once.

__________________
Clint
89 4Runner 3vze auto, Downey headers, 180k miles
Rancho t-bars and rear springs, 9000 shocks
31x12.50-15 BFG AT on Weld's

fatdudesurfin

89_4runner, how would you recommend removing the camshaft timing pulleys? what tools, what precautions?
i am about to replace the t-belt, water pump and radiator in my truck w/ 3vze, and i would like to avoid buying some special tools just to remove the cam pulleys.

blainelukens

ok so I got the manifold completly out now and the new one is here tomorrow only problem is that when I did this I noticed that the timing belt was cracked so I need replace it I got everything off except I can't figure out how to remove the crankshaft pully because it is so tight, I'm using a strap wrench around it but it isn't working because the pully turns inside of the strap wrench when I crank on the bolt

89_4runner

I have used a home-grown strap wrench for the camshaft pulleys and the crank pulley. The strap is made from 3/4" rock climbing webbing covered with an old bicycle inner tube. The strap has a loop on one end that I place on a ~1.5" OD cheater pipe (same pipe I use with 1/2" socket wrench). This works well for the crank pulley, but not so well for the camshaft pulleys.

A couple of days ago someone posted a pic of a camshaft pulley holding tool made from ~1" square tubing. The tubing has slots down the length and he placed two bolts all the way through the tubing that act like forks to hold the camshaft still while you loosen/tighten the bolt. That looks like a good idea, but I did a quick search and couldn't find the post. I will do this if I ever replace the timing belt again (just replaced it 4 months ago).

The main precaution I have is be safe with the cheater bars and tools when loosening the cam (and crank) bolts. They have very high torque and when they come loose, something could get broken (your hand or something on the truck). As far as the cam gears, be careful not to damage the teeth. The gears are pretty tough, but can be dented when you start using the big tools on them.

Also, as far as the water pump... buy it from Toyota. The one I just installed came with a new metal and overmolded rubber gasket. That means you don't have to use that messy FIPG material for the water pump.

This is a common repair for 3vze engines so do a lot of searching of this site, use a Toyota manual, and there is also good information on 4x4wire.com and off-road.com
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/v6tbelt/index.html


blainelukens,

Above should help with removing the crankshaft bolt. Not sure what strap wrench you are using, but I made mine (not fancy at all) when I replaced the timing belt 4yrs ago. The bicycle inner tube is critical to increase friction with the pulley, plus you want the stap long enough to make more than one wrap around the pulley. Then, use 3 ft long cheater bars. By the way, my homegrown strap wrench only cost a couple of dollars to make and I needed cheater bars for 3/8" and 1/2" wrenches anyway.

Buy your new timing belt from Toyota. It is not worth the cost savings to buy aftermarket. I have heard too many stories of problems with aftermarket belts. You might also want to replace the water pump since you're in there. I didn't replace my water pump 4 yrs ago and it failed in December so I had to replace the timing belt before it was really needed.

__________________
Clint
89 4Runner 3vze auto, Downey headers, 180k miles
Rancho t-bars and rear springs, 9000 shocks
31x12.50-15 BFG AT on Weld's

blainelukens

thanks for the help man that really gives me some more confidence

89_4runner

Keep us posted how the repair goes.

__________________
Clint
89 4Runner 3vze auto, Downey headers, 180k miles
Rancho t-bars and rear springs, 9000 shocks
31x12.50-15 BFG AT on Weld's

dstrick32

Why do you need to remove the camshaft timing gears for belt replacement?? I never have had to!!

__________________
94 Toyota P/U Ex-Cab 3.0 Automatic 4X4

blainelukens

you have to remove the crankshaft pully to get to where the timing belt is
ok here is an up date since my truck is a 5 speed I put it in 5th gear since there is the highest amount of torque in 5th the engine won't turn so I just stood in the engine compartment and the bolt came loose now I replaced the lower intake manifold and in the process of ordering some timing gasket sets and a water pump I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel Yeah! Thanks for the feed back I'll let you guys know how the rest goes